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Does it leak on the low water level load ?
GE plastic wash tub style washer help....
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GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat ,McClary, RCA ) newer style washer - how to access the washers working parts
Slide show for accessing the newer style GE washer
GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat, McClary, RCA ) newer style washer - common problems...like pumping, noises, leaks, spinning and washing at same time....etc.
GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat, McClary, RCA ) newer style washer - how to change the transmission, access the consol, timer, fill valve, how to remove the inner basket.
GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat , McClary, RCA ) new style washer diagnostic chart - from American appliance
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GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat ,McClary ) new style washer: disconnect power first In approx. 1995 GE stopped making the metal drum washer and came out with a new plastic drum washer and plastic outer tank. To access the washer there are a couple clips between the top of the washer and the front panel that holds the panel on. There is one on each side at about where the pictures show. The clips are mounted on the cabinet and push down into slots on the front panel. Press in on these clips with a putty knife ( you will be pushing inward on the clip) and pull the top of the panel away from the cabinet when the clips are released. The bottom of the panel sits on a couple clips on the bottom of the washer. Pull out on the panel and lift off the clips at the bottom. You now have access to the operating components of this washer. To remove the top panel, remove the bleach from the top panel and remove the two 1/4" drive screws from the top front of the washer and lift up and forward on the top panel. You will have to unclip the wire harness ( male-female wire connector ) for the lid switch.
A tip from Ron ( reference model WCSR4170D0WW )
I found your website useful today to repair my GE washer. When the machine entered the drain/spin cycle there was a loud buzzing noise and the machine would not drain. I am the type of person who likes to at least try to make repairs before calling in the professional, and your site was just what I needed to complete the repair in less than an hour.The pictures on your site were very helpful to help me get the front off and access to the working parts. Your advice about the turning the pump motor to see if it was stuck was excellent because it had very little play and I could tell something was jamming it ( newer pumps no longer have a fan blade we can manually turn like the original one did ). I expected to find one of my young daughter's socks but it was actually a straightened out paper clip that I had probably left in my pants pocket some time ago after using it to unlock a bathroom door.I would suggest the following additional advice in that section if you agree.1. An old credit card works fine to remove the front door and access the working parts if you don't have a putty knife handy.2. If you have a jammed pump you probably also have a washer full of clothes and dirty water. I fished out the clothes and used a short hose to siphon the remaining water down to the bottom of the tub.3. I removed the pump assembly by detaching the black and white power wires, remembering which was black and which was white. Then I removed the two hex screws that attach the pump assembly to the frame. I put a bucket under the pump assembly before removing the smaller hose, and the remaining water, about 1 or 2 quarts, drained into the bucket. I then removed the larger hose to find the paperclip and some other debris which I removed.4. After reassembly, I finished my wash. I left the front panel off through the next cycle so I could check if there was any leaking from the re-attached hoses before closing it up for good.
GE ( Hotpoint, Moffat, McClary ) new style washer - common problems: The most common problems with this washer has been the leaking problems. If you access the washer and see water stains on the back left of the base or you actually see water coming out of the over flow tube you have a transmission problem. What happens is the brake does not hold the tub still during the agitation mode and the tub spins and agitates at the same time. The transmission ( #320 in the picture ) will have to be replaced, there is a kit available to repair the brake in the transmission but I have found this to be much less reliable than replacing the whole transmission. If you see water leaking down the middle of the washer you will probably need a new tub seal ( # 311 ) and possibly a new transmission as the leaking water damages the spin bearing in the transmission. The bleach applicator hose has also been known the rub through and leaking water as well.
If you see water leaking out the over flow pipe, often the transmission is spinning and agitating at the same time, check for this by watching the agitation cycle to see if the inner basket is taking off and spinning = need a new transmission. You can use a pop cycle stick to activate the lid switch to run the washer with the lid open/up ( for testing only!! ) A step by step room on "how to" change the transmission.
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for heres more info on the problem.
I have seen the tube. The water is not leaking from there. Also, it is leaking only after it stops. There is no water in the tray. The washer works fine through all the cycles and at all loads. I do not think it is a transmission problem.
If its leaking when its finished it could be leaking from the water valve it cant be from the water pump or the drain hose .
Check the water valve.
There is absolutely no water in the tray. No leakage from the pump or the drain hoses from the tub to the pump and from pump to the drain. I do see that all the water has not been drained from the drain hose.
The drain hose is corrugated plastic and they can get a very small pin hole in the drain hose , I would check that .
Its hard to pinpoint a problem like that.
You have the front off and cant see the leak .
I checked the taps first. They are fine, Also, if it were the tap, it would be leaking all the time and would be easier to troubleshoot and fix.
By the way, should there be any water in the tub or drain hose after the washer has finished the job? I would not think so.
Yes there is some water in the drain hose it cant run dry .
You will have to wash a few loads with the front panel off till you see it leaking.
I have done several loads (different sizes) with the front panel off. No leak during the wash. The water leaks only after it has finished the load. Also, no water in the tray, only under the washer. I suspect it from the joint where the drain hose is connected in the back. I am planning to take the hose out tomorrow and put some plumber's tape to make it a tight connection and see if it stops the leak. I appreciate your help.
I will try it in a few days. It has been nice chatting with you. If it fixes the problem, I will surely authorize the payment considering you have spent some time. To be honest, it feels like I have been the one who is logically troubleshooting the issue. How do i come back to authorize the payment?
You log back on and push the Accept button .
Finding a leak that only sometimes leaks is a bit difficult.
Thanks John. I agree. The intermittent problems like this are not easy to troubleshoot and it does not make sense to replace the washer. Also being an engineer with two masters, it is sometimes a personal pride to fix it yourself. By the way, as you may have noticed, I have already tried quite a few things.
Wish you the very best. Have a wonderful evening.
A leak from the washer cant be that difficult to find a simple clamp is probably the problem don't look for something more difficult .
Good luck on the week-end.
let me know what you find please.
The root cause of the problem was the drain under the washer backing up. It was not the leak from the washer. Since it happened only when sump pump and washer drained at the same time in the 2" pipe, the volume of water was too much for the pipe to handle. There might have been a small clog also. I have solved the problem. Thanks for your attempt to address the problem.