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Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12156
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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I have a Maytag LDE5004ACH dryer that is a fluke in that the

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I have a Maytag LDE5004ACH dryer that is a fluke in that the top is bolted on.
Recently, I removed the front (without having to remove the top), disconnected some
wires leading from the dryer to the door and successfully replaced the belt. Only, in
my joy at finally getting the dryer open I forgot to re-connect the wires that led from
the dryer to the door.

So when I turned on the dryer to test it it tumbled perfectly, but after ten minutes
there was a loud beep and the dryer stopped tumbling and when I opened the door
there was no heat at all in the test clothes or dryer but I could smell burnt solder.

Did I destroy the fuse? Could you Maytag specialists teach me how to replace the
fuse(s)? Or is it a circuit breaker? Could you please teach me how to untrip the
circuit breaker. Thank you. David from Honolulu again starting over. Of course,
tomorrow when I go to my ex-wife's house I'll re-connect those wires.

Hi,Welcome to Just Answer, My name isXXXXX will be helping you with your appliance issue today.


does this still start and turn? or is it completely dead now?

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Thanks for replying, Bryan. I'll reply to your question when I go to my ex-wife's

cottage in a few hours.


David from Honolulu

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Am at ex-wife's cottage now. I was wrong when I thought I didn't reconnect the

door wires and the machine does run very well and stops when I open the door so

those are the yellow and white door wires that are okay.


Only thing machine does not heat and I turned it off after five minutes before

I heard the beeping sound and the machine stopped by itself because the burnt

solder smell makes me think it's harmful to run the dryer now.


My exwife reports that the dryer wasn't drying (not heating up) just around the time

the tumbler belt broke and I assumed that once the tumbler was tumbling the heater

would go back on but obviously not.


I suspected maybe the switch is bad so I tried differetn settings but they all act

the same -- tumbler tumbles perfectly now that I changed the belt, but no heat.

Without heat, this dryer isn't going to dy.


Can you help me? I already gave you the model number, right?

Awaiting your answer at my ex-wife's house. David from Honoluu

Noonish Hawaiian time.

I'm sorry David, I got called out to work today and just returned, you have to check your heating element I believe it's probably shorted out, do you have a voltmeter? This is what the heater looks like, and if you click the link below, the blue link, it will take you to a video to show you how to test it, these short out when the wire breaks inside the heater, let me know if you can check that, I will be back on in about an hour it is around 6:13 PM Eastern standard Time right now, I've got a run some dinner down to my mom but I will be back check see if you checked in, thanks, Bryan
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Video address you gave me didn't work so I went to Utube. They say open the front

of the dryer and the heating element is on the bottom right under the tumbler. Is the

picture you provided the exact one for my particular model of Maytag dryer? I've

overstayed my welcome at my ex-wife's home but tomorrow (thank God it's sunny

in Hawaii and we rarely use the dryer ) I'll return and remove this heating element and

you can then teach me how to test it using a multmeter that I will purchase from Radio

Shack (a battery tester won't do it, right?)

I have a question -- I saw on the internet that lint accumulated in machine will cause no

heating, but from the back vent I see that it is clean. Would lint accumjulate in the

heater someplace where I can't see it? Email you later. Dave.

ok I'll try to be here , when are you thinking? a battery tester wont work, you can get a cheap meter for around $15.00 I have to finnish the jobs tomorrow so let me know when you want to go back to your x wifes and that way I can work around it, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Bryan, I purchased a Radio Shack multi-tester so I'm all set to go and I've been looking

at all the UTube shorts about the dryer problem where the dryer tumbles perfectly

but doesn't heat up at all. I admit I didn't notice if the Heat Element (The giant resistor

that produces the heat) was on the bottom right of the heater or in the back of the

tumbler, but I plan to check with the multi-meter set on ohm-meter if there is infinite

resistance when I put the black on one of the Heat element's two sockets and red lead against the body of the resistor (the cover) itself. It should be infinite because the cover is to insulate it. f I get an indication that there is a short I'll report to you and you can teach me how to unshort it so I don't have to purchase a brand new Heat Element for a hundred dollars in Hawaii. According to internet, it could still be fuses or thermal shutoffs but right now the Heat Element looks like the most likely suspect. One question: If i detach the Heating Element completely from the machine and measure

the resistance using my multimeter what should the total resistance of the heating coils be? I know if it's infinite, it's broken and really needs to be replaced but at any point

please correct me if I'm wrong. You're the xpert and I'm only a wannabe fixit man.. Email u tomorrow. thank you. David from Honolulu

if you can , unplug the dryer and take one of the wire of the element and then check the element for infinite resistance to it, to check for a short to the can you can test one connector at a time between the connector and the can, if you get continuity then ist shortded and you need to replace the element. you have the test right, I will be back after lunch today around 12.00pm EST
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Just out of curiosity, Bryan, and you don't have to go to the trouble of taking apart a

store dryer and measuring to reply if you don't know it offhand, but another test I want

to run after I test for shorts is to remove the Heating Element from the dryer and

simply set my probes on the two connections and see if I read infinite ohms which

would mean the resistor is broken somewhere or if there's no ohms at all --

now I'm confusing myself, but 1) what is the normal amount of ohms of such a

heat resistor and 2) should I measure it when it's in the can or removed from its can

covering? Also, 3) how many ohms should a fuse or thermal shutoff have? 4) What is

the difference between a fuse and a thermal shutoff? Please reply by the numbers.


Later I'll ask you how many fuses and thermal shutoffs I have, and where they are

but I dont' want to overload you at this point. You might think why go to all this trouble

when you're sure the problem is the Heating Element, but if the fuses and thermal

shutoffs are cheap enough I can purchase them all with one trip to the appliance part

store which I have to block ten blocks back and forth to get to, and it's good practice

for me to examine the fuses and thermal shutoffs as well.


I know this step might be unnecessary when all I should do is test for shorts by

putting one lead on one connection and the other on the can's body and repeat with

the other connection, but I want to do everything I can before I purchase a hundred

dollar heat resistor, unnecessary as they may seem to you.


It's good that you're delivering meals to your mother. Is she in a nursing home? My

mother passed away some three years ago (I'm 67, after all), and I wish I had done

more for her when she was alive. You're obviously a good son.


David. I'll report to you when I go to my ex-wife's cottage in four hours or so.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011 5:45am , but don't forget that your day job comes

first. I got lots of tiem because I'm retired from library service (which is why my

thirst for knowledge is so obvious) and Hawaii has such good weather that we

hardly use the dryer.


Sorry to throw so many questions at you, but Question 5) Could a lot of lint be trapped

somewhere in the dryer where I can't see it? The back hole looks pretty good as does

the vent leading out of the building. I can't vacuum because my grown son is schizophrenic and the noise bothers him. Is there such a thing as a dryer lint cleanout

brush? Something that will probe deep into the dryer and catch any impacted lint.

1, if the meter reads no ohms at all the heater is bad, click this link and it shows you how to check the continuity there is a video there click on the video watch it and you'll see what I need you to do,


2, you can test this without taking it out of the dryer, you leave it right in the tube and in the dryer, in the picture you can see the ceramic part where the wires connect, there are actually two of them on the can, they will have heavier wire going to quarter-inch connectors, usually red and black or sometimes black and white anyway just take one wire off is the meter like shown in the video on the two connectors if you have no continuity like it says then it's that, that white thermostat you see towards the bottom of the picture is the high limit thermostat, test that the same way pull one wire off it and test it for continuity, if you have none that's the part that's bad,


3 not really going to check how many ohms there are just to see what has continuity is all you need to check, if you watched the video it tells you how to do this.


4 the difference between a fuse in a thermal cut off is there really is a difference the thermal cut off is just basically a fuse that's the white thing on the bottom of the picturethere is also a video to test that at this link, I will be back in just a little bit and will check your response, thanks, Bryan

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Thanks, Bryan! All I need is to know how many and where the fuses are in my Maytag LDE 5004 ACH

dryer. If you don't happen to know don't sweat it because if the Heating Element is

shot I'll replace it, but would be nice to purchase every fuse I need while I'm at the

parts store because they're fairly cheap and I can kill several birds with one stone

on my bicycle trip there. Thank you. The videos were very informative and now I

know that the normal resistance of the Heating Element falls between 0 and 50 ohms.


David. I should be at my ex-wife's cottage in three to four hours and I'll report to you

then and might have even more questions, but you're really earning your pay. : )

March 2, 2011 8:26am Honolulu time

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Bryan, did the secretary at Just Answer give you the diagram I attached to them?

graphicMy graphic won't attach because it's too large. Basically, part of the newly-installed replacement

belt is rubbing against each other as it loops around the idler and the rotor wheel and

it doesn't look good because in all the diagrams I've been given there is a lttle space

in between. I've tried moving the idler but it doesn't look adjustable. What to do? In

a month or so or even sooner this belt will break by friction. Dave.


No I didn't get the the picture, there's only one more thermal fuse it's on the blower assembly and if this one blows the dryer won't start so you know that one is good because it dryer starts,so just test the two things I said and one has to be bad, you the heater on high limit thermostat the one on heater can, I'll bet you find it, I'm in-between jobs right now so I'll be on for a few more minutes and then off and then back on again, thanks, Bryan
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Still need to know what to do about two parts of the belt rubbing againstg each

other pretty badly. Do you own a fax maachine? Thank you. david. Time now 1pm

in Honolulu at my ex-wife's cottage and will open up the dryer now.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

There were three fuses around the can of the Heat Element, two of them on the

left side linked together. I took off one completely, the one that looked like the

illustration you sent me and it was "live" meaning not infinite resistance. The other

two fuses that looked different I measured without disconnecting simply by putting

the probes on both ends and they were both live so all fuses working all right that

are attached to the "can."


Next, because I could see the two wires leading to the coils of the Heating Element

peekiing through the can, I measured the resistance in the heating element and got

a live reading, about 7 ohms. This means the Heating Resistor is not broken.


Next I put the black jack of my ohmmeter (multimeter set on ohms) on the can and

the red on the inner wire mentioned earlier leading to the coil. Infinite resistance which

is correct because the can shouldn't be receiving any juice because it's not meant

to be a heagter. I moved the red lead to the other wire leading to the other end of

the coil and got infinite resistance again.


So the Heat Element is all right, no breaks and no shorts.

All three fuses or something that looks like fuses are all right.


This is what I plan to do. No one answered me when I asked if there might be

compacted lint in the dryer and I can't use a vacuum because my son is schizophrenic

and can't stand the sound of a vacuum so I have a toilet snake that I'll use very

carefully not to break the plastic inlet from the lint trap to search for lint.


I'll report to you later on, but I don't expect to find much lint because even the back

tube on the back of the dryer is rather clean.


Now this is what I think is happening. Before my ex-wife reported the dryer wasn't

working I had jury-rigged a backflow hose leading to the building outside vent and

I suspect it was all blocked up and when I came to fix the dryer and noticed that the

belt was broken I fixed the vent and used a brand new professional, not a homemade



I suspect that hot air was getting trapped in the dryer and tripped a circuit breaker

in my brother in law's room downstairs and has been tripped ever since. That's

why even after I changed the belt the dryer didn't heat up although it tumbled

perfectly and beeped and went off. I suspect that with one circuit tripped the dryer

is only receiving partial power and that causes some overheating somewhere and

that's why it beeps and turns off by itself and I smell burnt solder.


After I check for lint using the plumbing snake carefully, I'll put the belt back on and

the fuses and put eveerything back together and phone my brother in law to untrio

the dryer and put in a test wet towel and see if the heat will go on and if it will

complete the cycle without beeping and turning itself off.


In the meantime, if you have any ideas or suggestions please let me know because

it will take me half an hour to check for lint using the snake and once I close the

machine I won't be opening it up again until tomorrow because my ex-wife doesn't

like me hanging around too long.



David from Honolulu

2pm honolulu

So which side of the belt goes against the tumber -- the ridged side, right?

Let me know if it's the smooth side.

Thank you.



Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Brother-in-law states that the circuit for the dryer had NOT been tripped but he jiggled

it off and on anyway. So I have, using the multimeter as an ohmmeter, verified that

the Heater Unit is all right and the three fuse-like things located around the can containing the Heater Unit are all closed (not showing infinite ohmage). The heating

element itself has 7 ohms which sounds right so there's no break or short. I have made sure that there is no lint buildup hiding somewhere in this dryer.


When I test-run it after all this, it tumbled beautifully and I checked the vent outside the

house and cold air was rushing out. In ten minutes, the ending beep sounded and the

dryer stopped with the test wet towel still wet with no discernible heat. I looked at the

timer and noted something interesting. THE TIMER HAD PROGRESSED HALF AN


thing happened the other day but I asn't observant enough.


Tomorrow I'll not only re-test it but be watching the timer all the time. I'm curious if

it jumps all in one jump or just progresses quickly going half an hour in ten minutes.

For now, though I need more ideas from you. I have run out of ideas.


Sincerely, David from Honolulu

Wednesday night, March 2, 2011

By the way, that twenty dollar Radio Shack Digital Multi-meter was a good idea.

It's the only way to check out some of these things if they're all right or not.


But now, what to do? Am I glad you're there.

is there any way you can trace the red wire from the motor that goes to the heater and uplug that one from the heater and run the dryer (be real careful) and see if 120 volts ios comming from it? You are motor centrifugal switch may be bad, this is a tough problem to track down I think somewhere you missing half of your power to the heater, this should be 120 V coming into each side of the main wires to the heater a lot of the time the motor switch fails and does assembly other half of the 220 V to the heater which means it won't heat, the dryer will still run because it only takes 120 V to run the motor side, you need to find out where the power is missing, I'm not sure what color wires you have coming onto your heater but I think it's probably a red and a black wire although it could be red and white or black and white I'm not sure with your heater tracing these is what you need to do, I did find all of the diagrams for your machine including the wiring diagrams, click this blue link it will take you to all the diagrams, let me know if this helps, thanks, Bryan

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

I'm about ready to give up and press the Accept Answer so you can get paid

(I'm on the free month trial but I understand you get paid anyway) . The reason I

want to give up is I don't like measuring voltages so I'll call in a Sears technician, but

before I give up completely I am curious to know why you didn't ask me to check out

the timer that was my layman's guess. David Honolulu

Will we would've eventually got to that it came to it I understand you don't like to check power live and all that, that is a difficult thing to do, did the timer turn out to be the problem? See by doing the test to see if you getting power from the motor centrifugal switch if you were that would've led us back to the timer because the other side of the power comes through the timer if you see what I mean, I would've worked as long as we had to on this but I don't want to get hurt either, sometimes these things can just get over your head and then you waste a lot of time trying to figure it out, sorry thanks and best wishes, Bryan
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