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I have a washer/dryer LSE7804ACE. Yesterday, while the washing

Customer Question
machine tub was full, I...
I have a washer/dryer LSE7804ACE. Yesterday, while the washing machine tub was full, I lifted the lid to add fabric softener. The machine wouldn't start when I put the lid down. On all cycles I can get it to spin - I it emptied the yub abd spun the clothes almost dry,. But I can never get it to start washing again - it will complete a spin cycle and then stop - no rinse, no wash.

Is there a sensor or switch that just broke? Is this something i can fix myself?
Submitted: 6 years ago.Category: Appliance
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Answered in 2 hours by:
1/1/2011
Appliance Technician: Chas, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
Chas
Chas, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16,453
Experience: Maytag, Whirlpool, GE & Kenmore Factory Trained Service Tech
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Hi, my name isXXXXX am hoping that I will be able to help you with your problem today..

 

Does it fill with water?

 

WARNING, if you use the OPT OUT button on the tool bar, this will bar me from answering back to you. once pressed I cannot answer anymore of your questions...Use this button with caution...

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

no. it was filled with water when it broke

 

when I move the dial to spin, it will spin (and the water that was in the tub was forced out) but stops when it gets to rines - no water fills tub

 

when I move the dial, if it's on start, wash or rinse nothing at all happens

 

on spin it spins, until it gets to the end of the spin cycle, then stops

Customer reply replied 6 years ago

sorry, I have to go out for a few hours.

 

I can reply to any other questions when I get back

 

Larry Markel

cell XXX-XXX-XXXX

Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
Andrew Harris
Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 107
Experience: Over 2 Years of appliance repair experience.
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It sounds like the timer may be broken or the lid switch may be partially defective.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
how do I figure out which switch? I asked if it's something I can fix myself. The wiring diagram inside the machine isn't very helpful - not all wires seem to be labeled, and it's not clear how to test anything
Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
Again the problem may be with the timer or the lid switch. The lid switch is engaged when the door is closed. There are service manuals available online (www.allrepairmanuals.com/maytag-washer-dryer-combo.htm?model_number=LSE7804ACE). Your combo should have a fuse. Take the front panel off by removing two screws at the bottom. Remove the screws pull the panel towards you. On the left you should see a glass fuse. You should see a fine line of metal through the glass. If its not there replace fuse #3. Here is a diagram. - http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/35405.gif
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

thanks - I can try that, but since the lid switch works for the spin cycle, why wouldn't it work for the wash and rinse? (the spin stops when the lid is lifted, resumes when it is lowered.)

When I took the control panel off to look at the timer switch a few wires came loose, and I'm not sure where they go. (There seem to be more wires than prongs to put them on.) The loose wires are:

1) 2 blue wires labeled 3 (I think this goes on the washing machine control switch, bottom left connector on the back ,labeled 3*)

2) White wire labeled 6 or 9; 3) red wire labeled 32; 4) Yellow labeled 22

50 Dark gray no label

Two wires with white plastic covereing their connectors - 6) Blue #21 and 7) Purple #16

 

The connectors with no wires are:

1. on on the bottom front left of the washer control switch;

2. the bottom right back of the washer switch (labeled M, this has a black wire on the other side of the connector - the connector is labeled TM.

3. The one labeled 3* I mentioned before.

4. possible a broken connector on the pressure switch (see below)

The wiring diagrams (insde the unit and on line) don't list clearly where the above wires go or which wire goes to these connectors. It seems I have 5 possible connectors and 7 loose wires.

 

On the pressure switch with wires on the botton 1c (pink), 2c (brown), 3c (yellow) on the top left (labeled A) is a black wire. On the top right (labeled B) is just a nub of a connector - no wire could attach ot it. I'm wondering if the connector broke off and this would explain the problem and whether a new pressure switch would solve it (is there supposed to be a wire on position B?)

 

Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
The lid switch is not the likely problem then.

"On the top right (labeled B) is just a nub of a connector - no wire could attach ot it."

That could be a potential problem. The wires with white plastic covering their connectors should be kept as is. Is there a wiring diagram on the back of the panel you removed? If so you can follow the wires. Make sure the power is off.

Here are some standard abbreviations:
>> Bl = Blue
>> Br = Brown
>> Gr = Gray
>> Gn = Green
>> O = Orange
>> R = Red
>> W = White

>BLK black
>BRN brown
>RED red
>ORN orange
>YEL yellow
>GRN green
>BLU blue
>VIO violet
>GRA gray
>WHT white

Edited by XXXXX XXXXX on 1/1/2011 at 10:02 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

took off the front panel of the washer and found the correct wiring diagram

 

I took off the washer control and found additional fittings FOR WIRES - INCLUDING ONES MARKED 21 AND 16, WHICH WERE THE WIRES WITH PLASTIC COVERINGS YOU SAID TO LEAVE AS IS. I connected them (but haven't turned on th epower - could you tell me if they should be connected, or if I should remove them, please.

 

The other loose wires - #6, #32, #22 -all had connectors on the front of th econtrol unit.

 

That leaves the dark gray wire, and on the pressure sensor switch there seems to be a tab broken off on the top right - labeled B on the switch.

 

The wiring diagram seems to show that there should be a wire there, and it goes to a fuse and then to the water valve.

 

do you think it's the pressure switch? If it is bad, would that explain the fact that the washer doesn't start or fill up with water on the wash or rinse cycles but still works on the spin cycle?

Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
If the wires were individually capped off they were left that way for a reason.

"That leaves the dark gray wire, and on the pressure sensor switch there seems to be a tab broken off on the top right - labeled B on the switch.

The wiring diagram seems to show that there should be a wire there, and it goes to a fuse and then to the water valve."

 

My guess is that this switch should have at least two wires going to it. You can try blowing a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. This would indicate the switch is working properly. I would refer to the wiring diagram to tell where that gray wire should go.

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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

They weren't exactly capped off - the plastic was open on th eend. There is at least one other wire already connected witht eh same plastic -my guess is that it gives extra insulation.

 

As to the pressure switch, that's waht it's labeled on the witing diagram, but it's solid plastic with 4 or 5 (if one is broken0 wires on it. The selector on the other side is for whethe rthe wash load is small, medium or large. there's nothing to blow into.

 

If the switch isn't operable, would that explain the no operation when water is called for, but regular operation during spin cycle?

Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
If the pressure switch is stuck on that can prevent the washer from filling. You can test it for continuity. The water inlet valve may be defective as well.

The pressure switch should have 5 wires attached to it according to the diagram.

(http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=131452&ModelNum=LSE7804ACE&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=55690&Position=16&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=16)

GY is the abbreviation for the gray wire. It looks like that should be connected to the level selector.
Andrew Harris
Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago

thank you.

It looks like I have to calla repair man to replace the pressure switch, since that's defimitely boken - 4 wires, not 5.. I'll have him test the water inlet valve, too.

Appliance Technician: Andrew Harris, Home Appliance Technician replied 6 years ago
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