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Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12156
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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Clothes dryer GE DPR483EA0WW does not start. It appears

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Clothes dryer GE DPR483EA0WW does not start.

It appears that the Thermal Fuse (the back panel) is open (measured with multimeter). Located behind the drum on the rear panel, it is almost inaccessible. Also there is a Control Thermostat (L135-15F, 4 spade connectors, not listed in RC parts) behind the front panel at blower outlet.
a) Is that rear panel item the thermal fuse?
b) How to replace? Looks like the drum needs to be removed - yikes!

Hi,Welcome to Just Answer, My name isXXXXX will be helping you with your appliance issue today.


Yes the one on the rear panel is the thermal fuse, this is very difficult to get to, you will need to take the front of the dryer off remove the belt from the pulley and release the belt then pull the drum out the front, you do this by lifting up the back of the drum to get the Bearing free from this . This is upside down in the dryer and is a ball in the back of the drum that rests in this I usually slide the belt back and give it a quick jerk upwards is usually gets the drum loops I can send you the diagrams so you can remove the front, here's the link, you need to take the screws out holding the top on which I think you've already done because you know where the thermostat is, if not there should be two screws when you open the door going up into the top remove those lift the top from the front and slide it out from the back, then down the side inside there will be two more Philips head screws you remove to get the front off, hope this info is helpful, thanks, Bryan

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks for the helpful response, Bryan – the detailed drawings are MUCH more informative than whatever little is in the “Owners manual”.

I have a couple of questions, because the dryer failure could have been caused by a choked air intake (clothes piled in front of dryer).

What is the most likely thermal control to fail on this GE dryer?

a. 1236 ("Tstat 1 shot") is in a low stress location. What is its function in that spot? I measured "open" across the connectors; does this indicate failure?
b. 1233 (“Safety Thermostat”) on drum seems a more likely candidate to fail . How do I get at it? Remove and disassemble drum?
c. 1315 (“Cavity or Control Thermostat”) in front - is that likely to fail? Across what leads do I check for continuity?

That’s two questions per item – I hope its not too many!

Take the two wires off of the safety thermostat and tape them together for a test only make sure that they are not hitting any metal, try the dryer, if it starts replace it, that's the only thermostat in the machine that will cause the machine to not start, and yes you need to pull the drum to get at it this is somewhat difficult from the front you need to reach in and released the belt and then do what I said in the above post usually you can just get the drum far enough forward to get the thermostat out and get at the screws, hope this helps, thanks, Bryan,


PS if the air intake was clogged that can cause it to overheat and blow the thermostat, these sometimes it weak and just blow however,

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
By "safety thermostat" do you mean #1236 "Tstat 1 shot" in drawing (on rear panel BEHIND drum) or #1233 "Safety Thermostat" (ON drum)? Why does the back panel need a thermal fuse?
The thermal fuse is they are In case the dryer overheats, with close piled around it this may have been the case, sometimes they just get week anyway in blow, it's going to be which ever one of those thermostats has no continuity, they should both have continuity which ever one doesn't is bad tested with the meter to determine that I think it's the one on the drum that is blown in yours one is a high limit type thermostat for the heater only the other one is for the entire dryer and will shut the entire dryer down when it blows, but you really need to check with the meter or you can do the wire to wire test and bypass it and see which one is bad by pushing the start button do one at a time just be careful it doesn't hit any metal, hope this helps thanks, Bryan
Bryan and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks Bryan - and for your patience. I'll take it from here. I'll test #1233, #1236, AND the "Control Thermostat". ............. A little later: Just removed drum and tested ..... sure enough, its #1236 on back panel (Tstat 1 shot) is shot, open. And its the most expensive part too - of course! Around 86 bucks!

Thanks again - without your advice on how to get the drum out I would have been stuck.

You're very welcome, 1236 was the one that's gone is that right? Does it look like this?I think Sears has that wrong what they're showing is a glide assembly for $83 for part number 1236 repair clinic if that's the part you need its $36 you can click this blue link to see the thermostats in your dryer, make sure you check that before ordering I believe Sears has it on their wrong and you won't get the thermostat you will get the glide assembly, thanks Bryan