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FixAllPhil, Home Appliance Technician
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Ran self-cleaning feature of top, convection oven of KitchenAid

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Ran self-cleaning feature of top, convection oven of KitchenAid Built-In Double Oven; power lost, top door will not open. Circuit breaker ok. Nothing lights on control panel.
Believe Model No. is KEB1271B.

The symptoms you describe are consistent with a blown thermal fuse. On top of the oven is a disk about the size of a quarter with two wire connections. The part number for this device is(NNN) NNN-NNNN

The thermal fuse senses the temperature of the oven top and if it gets hotter than allowable it will trip and turn off all power to the control.

The reasons this will trip are due to air flow. The following are things to check when replacing that thermal fuse.

- Blower, make sure the blower is clean and running properly
- Vent, make sure the vents that the blower attach's to are in place and the vents are clean above and below the door
- Door seal -this one is critical and caused most of the issues, if hot air escapes while running it will be pulled across the thermal fuse and cause it to blow

To replace the thermal fuse the oven will have to come out. You can use the installation instructions that came with the unit and follow them in reverse. They are also available at Kitchen Aid's web site. Your mode is KEBI271B

Let me know if you have more questions.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Have unit out, top shield off exposing the wiring behind the control panel. Find no fuse as you describe. Best guess is that a part numbered(NNN) NNN-NNNN with lettering FSP is it. Keep in mind that I am not positive the model number I gave is correct (the manuals are for six different units).


Have taken digital photos of the exposed back of control panel and wiring, and the -767 part. Sending this first, then will try to send the digital photos.


Thank you. If this is not the model number for your oven then the thermal fuse may be on the back, behind the shield.

I will look for the pictures
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Have sent the photos. The red, white, black wires first connect to what is likely a set of fuses, on a small circuit board, with three red parts, two with the diameter of a dime and 1/4 thick, , the third with the diameter of a nickel and 1/8th inch thick. mounted on top of the circuit board. Number on the back of the circuit board is(NNN) NNN-NNNNRev B; on front or top are(NNN) NNN-NNNNon the right side, and(NNN) NNN-NNNNand -85 on the left, with an "x" marked manually next to the -85 number. Where the black wire connects is visibly burnt. Ssurely seems this part needs to be replaced.


The part you are describing is a suppressor. The replacement part is(NNN) NNN-NNNN

This part will go bad if you have a power surge while the oven is running. Typically it is during a lightning storm.

The suppressor helps with voltage spikes and also will reduce electrical noise from interfering with the operation of the oven.


I think we need to go a bit further on this one. Even with a bad suppressor I would want to check the thermal fuse in back and see if there is one on the control. To direct you where to look is there any way you can get to the tag with the model number on it? It should be on the rail just inside the door, it might be on the right or left side or even just below the door.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.



Ser. No. xm2100724


Had to take the rail off, as the top door, which won't open, hid it.

Thank you very much!

There are 2 thermal devices we need to check on this model in addition to the suppressor.

There is one on the back behind the panel it is the disk shaped device with a red wire on one side and red/orange on the other. This should have continuity if good (be sure to disconnect wires to it before testing with an ohmmeter). Part number for this is(NNN) NNN-NNNNbr />
The second is most likely bad it is located in the wiring harness up front, it will connect to the control board white wire on connector p19-3. This fuse looks like a diode and will be coated with clear plastic. It can be checked with an ohm meter also.

Let me know if you have questions
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Have a granddaughter's birthday party, a must attend, so have to work this further in the morning. Will get back to you. did you get the two photo's??

I will be here tomorrow on and off and will look for any correspondence from you.

I did not get the pictures yet, but they may be on the way.

Have fun at the birthday party!
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Worked on it tonight. The web is full of similar stories: oven goes dead while running self clean. Thermal fuse seems to be the most common problem. Found what I believe to be what you describe on the back of the oven: Part no. is either 311764 or(NNN) NNN-NNNN both numbers are on it. Tried to ohmmeter test for continuity but not sure I did it right....get a "1" reading. Also: the Model No. is what I reported to you from the side railing label, but some sites describe our exact oven as kebc207kwho2 or 3, the 2 or 3 being added to what I reported earlier. None of the parts places are open till the morning, and can't find the part on any of the parts site, even though it seems to be a common replacement part. Also: I believe our thermal fuse was replaced once before; repariman was here several times, clueless, and it is handing there very loosely.
This fuse in back is only one of two that I believe have gone out. The '1' you were seeing on the ohm meter may have signified an open circuit meaning the fuse is bad.

The fuse we need to locate is close to the control board. The one on the back(NNN) NNN-NNNNwill stop the elements from heating but will not shut off power to the control.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

The diode-like device, about 2 1/2 inches long and covered with clear plastic, all crimped in, not able to check with least so far. Cant see any part number, but it is connected to a white wire plugged into a multi-ire connector on the back of the right side of the control panel, behind the "Start" button. Have read that it kills everything if bad; doesn't look burnt or fouled but I am no expert.


Seems to be best to order all three parts: the thermal disc or fuse in the back, the suppressor, and the thermal ("diode") fuse unless the suppressor is super expensive...not nuts about pulling the double oven out too often.


Can I by-pass the thermal "diaode" fuse for testing purposes? Any suggestions on where to order with expedited shipping. Thanks so much.. No doubt will pay up at the next level up.


Tom O'Connor


Yes that fuse coated in plastic attached to the white wire and the thermal disk in back can both be bypassed to test. The supressor is the least likely part to be bad but like you say, taking apart once rather than multiple times is key.

I would call Kitchen Aid and see if they will send you the parts. If not they may have a distributor close to where you live that stocks these parts.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

Live in the boonies, and from all I have read dealing with KitchenAid 800 number sorts might be frustrating, and our unit was first installed in 2002 and was replaced in 2003 at no cost, but still 7 years ago.


. So ordered all three parts (suppressor(NNN) NNN-NNNN AP(NNN) NNN-NNNN themal fuse at control panel AP3777386/(NNN) NNN-NNNN and themal fuse or disc on back of top oven ap(NNN) NNN-NNNNreplacing(NNN) NNN-NNNNnow(NNN) NNN-NNNN from Appliance Parts Pros....seems like a solid outfit, will see. Site had pictures of each part and am sure they are the correct ones.


If this fails, will get back to you, and thanks. XXXXX will be prompted on the payment issue.

Good Morning,

I think you are right on with what you have in mind to get. I will be around if you have questions and need help any further.

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