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Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12156
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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I have a Gibson Dryer Model GGF331AS1 that quit heating. I

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I have a Gibson Dryer Model GGF331AS1 that quit heating. I can't seem to find any access to the igniter/burner assembly. How do I access it?

If you did not include a model # XXXXX your question please do on you second reply if possible,this helps us serve you faster.

I'll check the model and will be right back,


Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Once I find out how to access the igniter area and fix the cause of no heating, I may also need help figuring out how to get some screws back into their proper location. I took out the screws in the back and in the inside dryer drum which I now realize held the back of the drum onto the bearing assembly.
man you made a mess of it now but theres hope, first did you say you had the top up? if so look down the sides and you will see a screw about 3 inches down going into the front panel, remove them and tilt the front panel forward take the wires off the door switch and lift the front panel off the bottom clips, let me know when you get that far.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
There is a cable harness with a connector that is attached to the whole front pannel which keeps me from completely removing the front pannel. Do I need to disconnect this? In addition, I still have the dryer sitting on top of the washer so I don't really have anywhere to set the front pannel once it is off.

oh this is a stack unit, man these are tough, I just finally found diagrams but they are limited, I strongly recommend a tech for this, I wish i could walk you through the whole thing but it would take a week and then we might miss something, you would be far better off calling for service, sorry , thanks Bryan

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I was able to set the front panel to ths side on my sink which was right next to it so I have access to the area where the igniter is now. Do you think you can still help me or atleast help me get the back berring connected?
to get the bearing back in you will need to remove the drum so you can get to the back bearing inside piece, there is a stop on the top, usually yellow plastic take that off and pull the drum out the front, then the part that connects to the back of the dryer(the drum support) can come of the drum and you can put it back together, these are tough machine to work on,.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I think I can get it out and work with it. I measured the resistance of the igniter to be about 59 ohms which I assume is OK. What else should I look at that could explain the lack of heat. I found the schematic inside the dryer cabinet if that is of any help. I have a Ph.D in electrical engineering so I believe I understand how to read it.
well you should check all the thermostats, its hard to say which one is causing this but I believe one is bad, the other thing to check is continuity on the radiant sensor, heres a picture of a typical burner assembly, Gas Dryer Guts
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I have the drum out.
The radient sensor resistance is between .1 and .2 ohms. Is that OK?
Where are the other thermostats?
I believe the sensor is good, its getting continuity, the one you really need to check is the high limit, Part 642067# XXXXX on this diagram, heres a link to all the diagrams, theres also one on the blower assembly,!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=GGF331AS1&pathTaken=partSearch thats about all I can do, thanks bryan

Edited by Bryan on 6/5/2010 at 8:20 PM EST
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I have the back panel reattached and have pulled off the part that I have to reconnect to the drum. It has grease on the ball. Is there anything I need to do to put it back in place? Does it need to be wiped off and/or regreased?
How do I know if the high limit sensor is OK or not?
the grease is white lithium high temp. and it should be replaced, you will need to get this at an appliance store probably, I don't know if Lowes sells it, the high limit you need to check with a volt meter , check it for continuity, it should have continuity
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
So I should wipe off all the old grease before applying the new? I think I may have some white lithium (high temp?) grease in a spray can that I have used for other purposes on bearings. Is this likely to be OK whether it says "high temp" or not?
Are there any other high temp sensors besides the one on the blower?
well if its not high temp it will break down the grease faster, theres a lot of heat there, but it would work alright, you can wipe of the old grease,
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
The blower temp sensor reads 7K and .1ohms between the 2 sets of terminals. This looks correct based upon the schematic. Is there anything else that would keep the heat from going on.
The cycle rotary dial/timer also may not be rotating anymore even though the drum would rotate. Will this also stop the heat from coming on?
When it was supposed to be running it would make a noise as if it was trying to turn on the burner every so often. Is this a clue?
can you test for 120 volts to the igniter ? unplug the igniter and run the dryer with the probes in the plug, you should get 120 volts.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Do I need to put the drum back in before doing this?
Do I need to put the wires back on the door latch switch before doing this or will it work with them disconnected?
you don't need the drum in its easier with it out but the door switch has to be connected to start,
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I looks like I probably used up all my white lithium grease. I have some lithium based bearing grease called heavy duty Moly Grease but it is not white. Is this likely to work?
I will try to test the igniter.
its best to use white, some grease can catch fire, anyway worry about that after we find the problem,
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I disconnected the connectors from the gas solenoid (I have already disconnected the gas line). When I turned it on the igniter started to glow pretty close to a white color so I assume that means it is working OK. What do I try next?
yes it is good, you need the gas coils, Part 3449these have just two screws holding them on, you can get these @ this will fix your issue, good job, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
So I just need to replace both coils, find some white lithium grease and put it all back together?
After I replace the coils is there a test I should do before putting the drum back in and putting everything else together?
you can replace them and try it , it wont light without the gas line connected though so you would need to put this back together, I know its a pain but if the igniter is glowing then the gas coils are not opening the valve.they get weak after a while and cant open the gas valve. thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
So if I reattach the gas line, replace the coils and start it I should see a flame?
I found the coils at for less than half the price of the location you suggested. Is there any reason not to go with this?
thats great I should have checked them sorry, anyway yes you should see flame. but shut it of just after it lights, don't run it long like that, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sounds great. I thank you for your instructions. It looks like I should know what to do (and what NOT to do) if it breaks down again. Are there any final instructions I should be aware of? Unless your response triggers an additional question I will pay you then.
Thanks again, Paul
not really just get it back together and your all set, thanks and sorry it took so long but some of these are a pain, thanks and well wishes , Bryan
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