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Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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Hi Eric, I recently had trouble with the upper cabinet in my

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Hi Eric, I recently had trouble with the upper cabinet in my Maytag Neptune drying center (MCG8000AW). It started overheating and then wouldn't heat at all.

My husband found it had a bad upper cabinet thermistor and blown thermal fuse. He replaced the thermistor and the upper cabinet thermostat, but I wasn't able to find an exact replacement for the thermal fuse. Instead I purchased the only thermal fuse Maytag offers for this model, which is similar to but not exactly the same as the original. He installed it and it blew as soon as the dryer was turned on. He feels the bad fuse needs to be replaced with an exact duplicate of the original.

He bypassed the fuse temporarily and the upper cabinet works great and doesn't overheat. He didn't find any problems with the heating element or anything that would have caused a short.

The original fuse is L300FNNN-NN-NNNN001 A0407 36F24 20139, button type, 5/8" with the blades projecting up from the button at 45 degrees.
the part number for the themo-fuse kit for your unit is LA-1053 and it cost $33.45 and you can get it at a local appliance parts dealer or online at
replace all three and you should be ok again / thanks and here is a link to order if you wish. mentId=M0601438&pageId=00009&searchModelNumber=MCG8000AWW&blt=11&subCompDesc=GAS%20CARRYING%20PARTS%20%28SERIES%2011%29

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Larry, this is the kit I already purchased. Unfortunately the parts are for the lower dryer, not the upper dryer. The thermal fuse included in this kit is not the same as the one that's in the upper dryer.
Hi phobega! Thanks for you question! I think the reason you are having trouble finding the OEM replacement number is XXXXX it is supposed to part of the complete upper heater/steamer assembly. We WILL get this figured out. First, what fuse did you replace the OEM one with? Please give me the numbers on the fuse or the part number .
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
According to the installation sheet the part # XXXXX XXXXX Husband attached the new fuse to the heater body but left it unconnected, so if you need the numbers from the fuse itself I'll have to open up the front of the dryer. Right now I can tell you that the fuse was the same size as the old one, and also L300F, but the rest of the identification code was different, and the blades are vertical at 90 degrees, instead of angled like the old fuse.
That part # XXXXX XXXXX as you know but I did find one at Marcone under the ORIGINAL part #, not subbed. Officially, the part was permanently replaced by the fuse in kit LA-1053 which CONTAINS a 300F fuse (actually 2 of them and a hi limit thermostat and I know you are also painfully aware of that as well!), as the kit was made for the LOWER section, but as far as the other nomenclature on the thermal fuse, the most important aspect is the temp rating of 300F. Fast blow or slow blow is PART of the nomenclature and the rest deals with current and voltage ratings and physical manufacturing specifics which are more or less irrelevant here (like the bent terminals which are just there to allow better clearance in the tight space where the heater is installed) but if yours blows IMMEDIATELY, then you may have a bit of an airflow issue which could be caused by lower than normal output from that blower. The fact that you can jump that fuse and everything SEEMS to be ok but putting a 300F fuse in blows instantly means that is is operating at the very high limit of the rating threshhold , and its not enough to cause PERCEIVABLE problems at least from where you are standing but the temp in the area of protection (the heater box) IS in fact exceeding 300F which is VERY high.
Thats the botXXXXX XXXXXne and te most important fact to consider here.
One thing you could do would be to install a 325F slow blow with the same GENERAL physical specs and that should solve the problem, but if the replacement 300F fuse you installed blows immediately, YOU DO HAVE A LEGITIMATE AIRFLOW PROBLEM.I would ALSO reccomend that you monitor the ACTUAL temps in the area of the fuse with an infrared or thermocouple type thermometer, and I think you will see that in fact you are exceeding 300F consistently. Another thing you could try would be to relocate the fuse closer to the blower where it still provides protection but the temps are cooler, but ONLY if you KNOW that the blower is working properly or seems to be working properly.Increasing the temp limit slightly or relocating the fuse IS re-engineering the machine to compensate for another real or impending problem which I do not like, but you will STILL have the added thermal safety in place.Please let me know if I can clarify any of this for you.

Edited by Eric on 10/21/2009 at 8:23 PM EST
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I just spoke with my husband and these were his comments: 1) The new 53-1182 fuse has a raised area on the bottom for fitting into an indentation. The heater box for the upper cabinet has no corresponding indentation, so only a portion of the contact area of the fuse was flush against the heater box.

2) it's physically impossible for the element to have heated up to over 300 degrees in the time it took the fuse to blow, especially since only about half of the base of the fuse was actually in contact with the heater box.

3) He immediately took the dryer back apart, and handled the heater box and fuse. If the metal box had been up over 300 degrees it would have taken a while to cool off, but it was cold.

Also, the dryer was run for about 3 hours while the fuse was bypassed. I don't understand how the heater could be so hot as to blow a 300F fuse, but the thermostat attached to the air duct, immediately behind the heater box, was OK (isn't the thermostat supposed to open at a lower temp than the thermal fuse?). We were also monitoring the temp inside the cabinet and it stayed at 140, which is what the specs say it's supposed to be.

Do you have any other ideas about what could cause a problem like this?

There's a replacement wiring harness kit available for the upper cabinet steamer/heater. Any possibility there's a fuse included with it? I called Maytag and the rep told me there's no photo of the kit and no description, so they don't know what's in it. I guess I'm confused as to why the steamer/heater thermostat is sold separately, but except for the Marcone catalog, the steamer/heater thermal fuse has to be purchased in a kit that contains a thermostat (actually, 2) for the lower cabinet.
I cannot tell you why the fuse blew WITHOUT having achieved an internal temperature anywhere near what it was rated to blow at as you say.The box itself does not have to reach 300F but the exposed part of the fuse does, and for the amount of time it is designed for. I can tell you that with proper airflow, the amount of exposure time is irrelevant because the temps anywhere near that fuse with proper airflow are nowhere near 300F for any great length of time.Even if they are, its the inside of the fuse, via the exposed part of the sensing area that must reach 300F before it blows. I agree that it sounds a little odd.
As far as the high limit thermostat opening before the fuse, yes, it will open before the fuse in most cases due to its rating, but remember, both the high limit thermostat AND the high-limit fuse are opened thermally, so even if the high limit thermostat DID open, if the fuse were subjected to temps at or above 300F for the amount of time required to open the fuse, it would blow regardless of the open or closed state of the thermostat. Thats why its a failsafe. That is the last-best chance that your house wont burn down. Its not a magical device by any stretch and can only do what is was designed to do when it was designed to do it.Also remember that your monitoring of the temps in the cabinet are useless in this case, because this fuse blows during high-temps at the HEATER BOX only. This type of setup is for protection against improper airflow and the resulting extreme temps AT THE BOX. The same thing happens when you measure the temp in the LOWER dryer drum which you will find is alot higher than the EXHAUSTING temperatures and where the thermistor is in contact with exhausting air (135-165 degreesF) Thats why I wanted you to monitor the temps at the heater box where the thermal fuse and this particular problem lie.
All I can tell you is that temperature is the ONLY thing that will make it blow, unless some catastrophic wiring failure occured, WHICH I HIGHLY DOUBT based on what you are telling me. Even then, this type of fuse is only supposed to open under excessive thermal conditions, not electrical faults.
Unfortunately I do not work as a Maytag engineer (thankfully) and cannot answer questions about why they cannot give you answers about their own products. I struggle with the same issues you are struggling with as a technician, trying to keep THEIR products working for longer than they themselves are willing and/or able to. This product was a flop in some ways and I am pretty sure Maytag (Whirlpool now) wishes it had never come out, just like the Neptune series.
I have never installed the wiring harness you mentioned so I cannot guarantee it will come with the fuse. I still dont believe that simply having a fuse with slightly different nomenclature WITHOUT determining what caused the subbed one to blow will help you. Maytag says the 53-1182 fuse is now the LA-1053 kit, so we have to take their word for it, since they designed the machine. There are no tech bulletins about this possibly being an error on their part, which means other techs , including myself have successfully used the subbed part number to repair the machine, so there really is no other explanation OTHER than the one I gave in my last answer, unless you got a defective set of fuses (ALSO highly doubtful, but possible.)
Sorry about the bold fonts here, this is a bug with the Just Answer system today and I will let them know about it.

Edited by Eric on 10/21/2009 at 11:20 PM EST
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Eric and 4 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Eric, thank you for all the helpful information you've shared, I appreciate it.

I know many folks have had a bad experience with a Neptune Drying Center, but I LOOOVE mine, and think it's held up very well in spite of being used heavily for 6+ years. This is the first time I've had any problem with it.
Your are very welcome!
Have a great evening and thank you for your questions!