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Hi, I need detailed instructions to replace my dryer motor.

I have the motor now...
Hi, I need detailed instructions to replace my dryer motor. I have the motor now I just need the directions.
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Answered in 22 minutes by:
10/21/2009
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Verified
Hello! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you today!
I have provided the link to the COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL for you which will give you this entire procedure AND all of the information you EVER wanted (and didnt want!) about repairing this dryer. I will ALSO be happy to help you personnaly through the procedure. The R/R process from removing the old and installing the new motor begins on page 7-3, but just to get you started, remove the FRONT panel by removing the crews in the DOOR HINGES where they meet the front panel AND the OPPOSING screws on the OTHER side of the front panel where the door hinges would go IF the door were mounted on the other side of the panel. Remove the door and and now you can remove the front bulkhead assembly to gain access to the motor/blower assmbly as depicted in the manual. This is a fairly easy repair but as I said, I am more than happy to walk you through any step along with your use of the service manual.
Thanks!
Eric

Edited by Eric on 10/21/2009 at 4:24 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Eric, I love you if you can help me step by step. I have removed the front panel after taking both sides of the screws,(door still on, without screws in) Now what?
Ok. This procedure begins on page 6-1 of the manual, but here are step by step instructions anyway.
Remove the two screws on the upper/outer corners that hold the TOP panel down to the cabinet and remove the brackets which are now loose by rotating them outwards to the sides which unhooks tem from the top panel. Then rotate the top panel up and backwards, out of your way.
Now remove the front BULKHEAD/Shroud assembly.This assembly is actually TWO pieces screwed together then screwed on to the cabinet, but if you remove JUST the screws that actually go through the INSIDE part of the shroud to the frame itself, visible from your perspective ,leaving the other screws in place that just hold the two shroud pieces together, this can be removed as an assembly instead of in two pieces , your choice. Once this shroud/bulkhead is removed, you have access to the drum/belt/blower/motor etc. Remove the belt by moving the belt idler opposite the direction it is applying tension to the belt, then the drum can be pulled out through the small indentations on both sides of the cabinet. Let me know when you have done all this.
Thanks!
Eric

Edited by Eric on 10/21/2009 at 4:52 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Ok, I got the shroud thing off, but I am not sure what is what. I am so trying to get this done before my husband gets home. I don't know where the belt is. And the shroud thing has wires attatched to it, is that right?
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I can't get the belt off, I am so close, but I truly have NO CLUE what I am doing. Please help me, I will give you a big tip...:D
No problem, we will get you through this. Im here to help. do you see the plastic belt idler that looks like this?
graphic

Just PULL that to the LEFT which will release some slack from the belt, allowing you do remove the belt and remove the drum.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Yes, we can feel the spring and sort of see it
Just PULL that spring-loaded WHEEL to the LEFT which will release some slack from the belt, allowing you do remove the belt from the motor pulley and the idler and remove the drum. i know its not EASY to see, but if you move the drum a little upwards, it may help. It sounds like you have a helper with you? Have them pull up on the whole drum enough for you to see better.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
SUCCESS!!! Now lets hope to God I can get it back on when I need too...lol What now??
COOL! So , now you can pull the drum out of the machine. Do that, and if we are on the same page here, you should be able to see the blower wheel. You will also see a bunch of 1/4" head screws holding the cover for the blower on. Remove those, then remove that cover, then remove the small clip holding the blower itself onto the motor shaft. Now, pull the blower off the shaft, unplug the motor connector by depressing the two tabs on the sides of the connector,LOOK CLOSELY at how the motor connector is oriented in other words, which general direction its pointing (just make a mental note of it) insert a screwdriver into the spring clips (one in the FRONT of the motror, one in the REAR) you see holding the motor down to the motor mount and VOILA! Its free! Let me know when you get to this point.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
UGH!!! I don't have the right size thingy to unscrew it grrrrrrr
You mean the screws that hold the blower cover on?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I got all the screws out finally, wish my hubby was more organized. but I can't get the blower thing off
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
This is so much harder than I thought it would be. I just can't figure out how to remove the clip. I got the cover thing off, but now the clip, any easy way you know of?
There are probably TWO clips holding the blower wheel on. ONE of them is a snap-ring and the other is a spring clip. The snap ring looks like this :
graphic

and SHOULD be removed with a pair of snap-ring pliers like this :

graphic

hopefully hubby has some of those in his stash, otherwise you CAN get this off with a metal pick or something to get inside the holes of the snapring and prying CAREFULLY outward on the clip. This way is a pain, but can be done in a pinch like this. Try not to damage the snapring when removing it, but its not the end of the world if you do, because they are really cheap and can be purchased at any hardware store OR appliance part store, but I understand we are looking for quick completion here, so look for those pliers and let me know what you come up with. ALSO, in a pinch, a VERY small pair of needle nose pliers CAN be used to get the clip off.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
ok I got the clip off, but I can't get the blower iff, and my husband is going to be home in 45 minute
so you got the snapring and the spring clamp off? then you just need to pull the blower straight off th shaft. it can sometimes be a little tight, but it will com off if you have thoses clamps off.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I can't get it, I am sitting her so frustrated
We can do this leeanne! Just take a deep breath. Lets make sure we are on the same page. Did you get BOTH clamps off, AND you have the cover off for the blower? If so, then youre almost there! It may help you to clamp the REAR pulley with some vice grips so it cant move, then wiggle the blower a little left and right WHILE you pull outwards on it, and will pull off. IF both of the clamps are OFF the shaft, there is NOTHING holding the blower on the shaft but friction. Just Pull, wiggle, etc and it WILL come off, I promise.

Edited by Eric on 10/21/2009 at 6:48 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
it's the second clamp I can't get it off I am trying so hard. I'm about to put this whole thing back together
Wait! Ok, so if you got the first clamp (the snapring that I gave you the picture of ) off, then the second one just requires a pair of normal pliers. Just squeeze the vertical tabs together and pull it off. Its just a spring and is easy to remove WITHOUT any special tools. Please give that a try
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Hey Eric. I had to put it back together. Hubby will be home any minute. Thank you so much, hopefully next week when he leaves again you will be online and can finish helping me.

Thank you again.
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I am going to accept soon, if you can just tell me how I can request you the next time?
You just have to come back to this dialog by clicking on one of the emails that was sent to you each time I replied to you or log in to your account here and click this queston and I will get a notice that you are here. I will be more than happy to continue helping you .
Thanks!
Eric
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Verified
Eric and 87 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Hi Eric,

I just wanted to see if you were online and if you could finish helping me with my dryer. How do I do this so you can get paid again?
Hi leeanne! I am here !
So if you would like to start a new dialog, you can do that by opening a NEW question, or we can continue with THIS dialog. You dont have to pay again unless you have a NEW , different question.
Eric
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Same stuff, but I wan't to be able to tip you for your extra help!

I am trying to get that second ring (which make NO SENSE why they needed two on this) and the last thing you said was I needed regular pliers and to push them together and it would come off. I can't get them to go together...lol
Ok, no problem. Does the ring look like this?
graphic
graphic





Edited by Eric on 10/29/2009 at 3:18 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
That was the first ring, the second one looks kinda like a horse shoe and if I can squeeze it, it just gets tighter
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I GOT IT!!! WOO HOO!!! Now that my party is over, I need some more instructions. :D

The metal front of the blower is off, and the plastic fan looking thing is off, I wiggled it, now the plastic cover thing is still on.
AHH! Ok. I guess I just considered that to be the SECOND ring. The other ring looks like this :

graphic

This one is the SNAPRING I mentioned in the earlier posts. You need those SPECIAL pliers that I mentioned. The snapring pliers that look like this :

graphic

If you DONT have them, you have to use the next best thing, like some needle nose pliers that have a sharp end, or anything to get into the holes of that snapring. THAT one you have to spread APART to remove. In a pinch, you can also try using some kind of dental pick or just about anything you can find to spred those tabs APART.
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Ok. If you are talking about #1 in this diagram,

graphic

You do NOT have to remove that to replace the motor.
Where I think you are now, you now need to unplug the motor electrical connector, then get a flathead screwdriver and and pry the #16 clips off both ends of the motor by pushing down on the tab at the end and prying outwards on it. Then it will come off.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
is there an easier way to do this? I was pushing down and pulling up and I can't budge them
Unfortunately not. Push STRAIGHT down on ONE end of the clip to release it from the tab on the motor mount, then while pushing down with the tab clear of the hole in the clip, push your screwdriver AWAY from the tab and it will clear, then the WHOLE clip can be removed.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Finally got it. I took the old motor out, and place the new on in it's place, now what?
Now make sure the motor is in the motor mount correctly by rotating it slowly until you feel it "lock" into place on both front and back mounts. Then reinstall the clips by placing one end in a tab on the mount, then put the other side in by again pushing down on the clip and while pushing down on that, pulling your screwdriver driver INWARD, toward the tab on the motor mount, reverse of what you did to get it off. Then plug in the motor and start putting everything back the way you took it off.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Do you have a picture of what it looks like in? I paid attention to the direction but not exactly how it was in there. It doesn't feel locked in place
graphic




This is NOT your EXACT Dryer but the area I circled depicts the kind of LOCKING I meant. It is easier to FEEL this on your dryer as you rotate the motor slowly while in the mounts than SEE it, but on the PLASTIC insulator on the motor which mounts to the METAL, U-SHAPED motor mount, there is usually a notch or indentation that ensures correct orientation of the motor and makes the clip as easy as it is going to be to put back on. It also ensures that the wiring to the motor will not interfere with the rotation of the drum once everything is put back together. The "locking" is VERY subtle in most cases so if you dont feel it, just make sure the motor electrical connection is oriented roughly the same way as the old one was. This is not something I will be able to SHOW you, unless I am there with you.There is ALMOST no WRONG way to set this motor in the mounts, but if it is not oriented correctly, you will have a harder time getting the clips back on and the electrical connection will interfere with moving parts.

Edited by Eric on 10/29/2009 at 4:26 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
whew, got that part, now having trouble with the clamp thing again not wanting to get back on. The first one went back on this one just wont
You have to make sure the blower wheel is pushed onto the shaft far enough to allow you to get that snapring into the groove in the motor shaft. Then gently spread the tabs of that snapring apart and let it snap in side of that groove. the key is gentle, because you can break those or bend them so they are no longer usable.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
We need detailed directions on putting the belt back on. Thanks
Place the belt with the GROOVES down over the drum. Make sure the belt is not twisted around the ENTIRE circumference , then place the slack of the belt , groove side inwards onto the motor drive pulley . It will be VERY loose, so you need to PULL the belt idler pulley, which is the spring-loaded wheel looking thing NEAR the motor and circled in RED on the diagram, TOWARDS the motor pulley, while you place the SLACK from the belt OVER this pulley in such a way that the FALT, NON GROOVED Side of the belt rides on it. Release the idler and now, the slack will be taken up, the GROVVED Side of the belt will AGAINST the drum, and the FLAT, OPPOSITE side of the belt is in the belt idler and there is no more slack in the belt .The second diagram shows how it will look. MAKE SURE there are no twists in the belt as you installed it.

graphic

graphic
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
ok it's on. way easier than gettig it off. Ok, so the belt it tight, I spun the barrel twice like it said to. The barrel is still loose will it fit better when the front thing is on?
Yes. The front of the drum is supported by the front shroud/bulkhead assembly.Without it being installed, the drum WILL only be supported by the REAR rollers and will appear to be loose .On that note, before reinstalling the front parts, make sure the drum IS on the rear rollersand that the rear seal is riding on the rear bulkhead. Then just let it rest that way until you are ready to put the front parts on.

Edited by Eric on 10/29/2009 at 5:40 PM EST
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
We have two flat metal "brackets" and we don't remember where they go. They're about 3" long.
graphic

If these are the brackets you mean, they hold the TOP down to the FRONT of the cabinet and are installed as shown.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
We got the brackets on - now what?
how far have you gotten with putting the front back on?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
We have it all done, except we have three screws left???? LOL Now we just have to turn the ddryer on and see if it works.
It should run as long as whoever diagnosed the problem as being the motor was correct! Cry
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
God I hope so!! Basically, I could hear the ticking of the motor, but when I pusehd the button it just buzzed, so they said it was the motor
Well give it a try and keep the proverbial fingers crossed!! If it was the motor that was buzzing/humming but not moving, the diagnosis SOUNDS correct.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Well we thought we were done, but we can't get the lid to fit right...grrrrrr
Did you accidentally put those brackets on BEFORE putting the front bulkhead on possibly?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
LOL yes...we finally got the whole thing put together, it started, trying to make sure it's tumbling...holy cow
CoolTongue outLaughing HECK YEAH!!
I told you you could do it leeanne!! Just hold the door switch in and while set on a cycle with NO HEAT, start it up to verify its tumbling if you want to verify like you said.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
ok, it's moving but very very slowly, not like it's supposed to What did I do wrong??? The belt or did I put the tumbler in wrong?
Its hard to say. If the drum spins easily by HAND in one or both directions, but MORE likely just ONE direction, I would say that the belt is not on correctly. You can just remove the FRONT panel ONLY, but leave the door inplace and you can check that belt AND watch the machine working, without going through all the disassembly again.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
It doesn't move easily, and only in one direction. It doesn't seem that the tumbler is exactly right, just because I can see a small gap in the very back. Other than it not tumbling, it sounds right when i turn it on, there is no slight buzzing noise when I hit the on button anymore, and it heats up right away when the heat was on. What do you think? I can't take the whole thing apart right now as I have kids to pick up from school! GRRRR
I meant it should ALWAYS turn in BOTH directions, but would bind up much easier in ONE direction IF the belt were causing the problem, and I was just trying to figure out what might be wrong . Based on what you see in the back, my money is on the possibility that you didnt follow the part of the instructions where I said " make sure the drum IS on the rear rollersand that the rear seal is riding on the rear bulkhead. Then just let it rest that way until you are ready to put the front parts on." Which means that the rear drum is probably not on the rear rollers, or the rear seal is not riding around the drum correctly. You MAY be able to fix this by simply removing those brackets, lifting the TOP up, then man/woman-handle the drum up in the back so as to set it on those rollers and fix the seal with a screwdriver run all the way around the gap on the inside of the drum where it meets the seal. Other than that, you might haveto start taking bulkhead parts off again for easier access to inspect/repair the problem.Yell
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX attempt to do this in a little bit! Now, how can I tip you for all of your help?

If you felt that my answers helped you again, all you have to do is hit the green "ACCEPT" button on one of the answers from todays dialog and it should give you prompts to follow to complete the transaction. I have enjoyed helping you again and will be more than happy to do so again anytime in the future!
Thanks
Eric
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Verified
Eric and 87 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Hi Eric, are you online?
Hi leeanne! Sorry about the delay, I haven't been on JA in a few days. Whats up?
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Eric
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
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Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.

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