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built1950, Handyman
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Experience:  Appliance Installer
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Have a Kenmore dryer; 1. no heat on the timed cycle, timer

Resolved Question:

Have a Kenmore dryer;

1. no heat on the timed cycle, timer does advance.
2. low heat on the auto cycle but the timer does not advance and the dryer runs (continuously) until the door opens. Dryer can be restarted with the pushbutton.
3. no obstructions in vent.
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  built1950 replied 7 years ago.
Please typ the Kenmore model number like this, 123. 456 789 99
Other wise or system here thinks you gave me a tel number or e-mail adresss and it bocks the numbers so we only see,
Make: Kenmore
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
110.731 121 00
Expert:  built1950 replied 7 years ago.
Hi YaCustomer

The wiring diagram for your dryer is illustrated in the first image below. In the automatic cycle, the advancement of the timer will use the neutral path through the thermal fuse and gas valve assembly (timer switch 0 will be closed from TM to OR). A blown thermal fuse or problem with the gas valve assembly circuit could prevent the timer from advancing properly in the automatic cycle. To accurately test the timer, use the timed cycle to see if the timer advances properly.

Since the dryer is not heating at all, I recommend checking the thermal fuse first. To check this component, follow these steps:

  1. Unplug the dryer to completely disconnect electrical power.
  2. Turn off the gas supply to the dryer.
  3. Remove the back panel of the dryer.
  4. Locate the thermal fuse (Key 39 in the second image below) on the blower housing.
  5. Pull the wires off of the thermal fuse.
  6. Using a volt/ohm meter, measure the resistance across the leads of the thermal fuse.
You should measure near zero ohms if the thermal fuse is good. If you measure infinite resistance (open), then the thermal fuse is blown and will need to be replaced. If the thermal fuse is blown, you will need to check the venting of your dryer. Make sure that the exhaust venting is not restricted. This could be causing problems in the dryer and would also cause the thermal fuse to blow.

If the thermal fuse is okay, then you could have weak or failed gas valve coils that are preventing the dryer from heating properly. The third image below explains the operation of the gas valve assembly in your dryer. Understanding this process could help you determine the heating failure that you are experiencing in this dryer. I would need to know more details to help you further with this problem. I recommend checking the issues described above and resubmitting your question with more information if you need more technical help in resolving this heating problem in your dryer.

To view a parts list diagram of your dryer and order parts, you can visit,



Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sorry, thought I said that I do have heat in the auto cycle...

Timed cycle - timer does advance, but no heat.
Auto cycle - timer does not advance, dryer does heat.

I think the thermal fuse is OK as 1. it was replaced about 2 years ago when it opened because of an obstructed lint/vent and 2. I have heat on the auto cycle.
Expert:  built1950 replied 7 years ago.
Sounds like two problems
1. timer does advance, but no heat.

Did you open the rear of the dryer and remove the shut over the blower fan and check that the blower fan is not covered with lint or that the cover which has a pocket like section at the bottom is not stuffed with lint at the bottom of this vent /blower cover which will restrict the system? just had a case like this.
You can not see this until you toatlly remove the vent shoot that covers the blower fan.

There are two thermostats in this dryer,If they do not get hot enough they can
effect the performance. They are cheap and easy to replace too.

2.Auto cycle does not advance, dryer does heat.

But most likley this radiant sensor is failing and not advancing the auto cycle.
Sensor, rediant # XXXXX in the below diagram
338906 $30.49

3387134 $25.99
3403140 $16.22
Thermal fuse may be bad again too if the shut is blocked down below or the fan is covered with lint when you open it.

You can find these parts here:


Edited by built1950 on 10/19/2009 at 12:18 PM EST
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks for your patience, I've just now been able to disassemble the chute. It was pretty full of lint/crap.

1. Thermal fuse OK, continuity there.
2. Heater on t-stat next to thermal fuse measures about 7200 ohms. According to the diagram that resistance is acceptable.

Is there a test for the flame sensor?
Is there anything else I should test?

In the meantime I will remove the front to get at the flame sensor.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
The flame sensor is out and I've also removed the valve coils.

The coil with 2 prongs reads out at 1270 ohms.

The coil with 3 prongs reads out at about 550 ohms.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
OK looks like I'm all set. Replaced the valve coils and dryer belt (while I had it apart!) and it is working again. Went to my local AP Wagner and the gentleman there was helpful, also had a repair guy that was there to get parts help me out. Everything I told them pointed to the coils as everything else checked out.

Not sure if you were paid properly for helping me, earlier I had pressed the 'Accept' button to pay for your help but I got an error message on my computer when I did...

Please verify and thanks.
Expert:  built1950 replied 7 years ago.
That's funny. I just had the same problem with a whirlpool gas dryer and I did change the thermostats and it still was not hot enough. I then changed the coil kit (BOTH in a kit)
Cheap too. And it runs good today.I was busy all day. But at 10 am I was trying to get online and suggest my experience to you before you payed for the thermostats.

the error payment stopped the accept.
You can try it again now.

Happy to hear your success.
God Bless
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