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Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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My Whirlpool LEB6300PW0 is not drying (no heat). Any quick

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My Whirlpool LEB6300PW0 is not drying (no heat). Any quick suggestions prior to calling a technician??
HiCustomer My name isXXXXX am happy to help you!
Ok. As far as quick and dirty checking, here are some things you can check. If you have the time and desire to do so, I can help you actually fix this thing yourself after we find the problem which WILL save you quite bit of money, so lets get started. I have viewed the diagrams for you machine and heres where you should start:

1) Check your power supply for 240VAC at the terminal block where the power cord goes into the machine. You must have 120VAC between EACH one of the outer terminals TO the center (neutral), AND 240VAC between both outer terminals (L1 + L2). Remember, the dryer can still run with just L1 at 120VAC BUT in order to have heat, you need BOTH L1 and L2 circuits.

2) Remove the rear panel and look at the included pictures. You are looking for this device graphic
specifically the one on the LEFT in th pic. This is the high limit thermal cutoff. It is wired in series with JUST the heater and is mounted on the SIDE of the heater box so, when airflow is restricted over the element and the high limit thermostat (on the right in the pic) , fails to open fast enough, this acts as a failsafe and does not reset. Again, with no meter to check this for continuity, connect the wires together for this device and test again. If it works, replace with part #279816 which includes the hi-limit thermostat AND the cutoff, AND instructions!

If that does not work, look on the BLOWER box itself for this device :

Some of these dryers had this fuse wired in series with both the motor AND the heater and some JUST the heater, either way, without heat, this MUST be checked. If you dont have a meter to check it for continuity, connect the wires together and see if you get heat. If so, replace this thermal fuse with part #3392519. Easy money.

Now you have checked the MOST likely. To check the element itself, the EASIEST way is to have a meter set on continuity, remove ONE or BOTH of the wires for the element and check across them. If no meter, you will have to remove the element and visually inspect it for opens coil. Still pretty easy.

Now, if NONE of these turn out to be the culprit, UNLIKELY, but STILL POSSIBLE are Worn and/or failed timer contacts in the main timer, bad heat selector switch, worn contacts in the centrifugal motor switch (yes, the motor has an automatic switch for the heater in it too!) . These are a little more difficult to check and verify , especially without a meter but i can help you with these as well if it comes down to it.
Please let me know if you need any further information about this!

Edited by Eric on 10/5/2009 at 7:00 PM EST
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks for the quick response. Can you describe how to "connect the wires together" for testing...this is a little vague to me.
Sure, no problem. First, i just want to stress that ANY of the instructions that involve "connecting wires together" are JUST FOR TESTING AND SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED A REPAIR , EVEN IT IT MAKES THE MACHINE WORK!!!! Testing the devices in question is ALOT easier and quicker if you have access to a meter, but i have found that many people who come here do not have a meter and do not wish to obtain one, so I never assume and I do as much as possible to help them just the same. So, to clarify what I meant ,just remove the wires from the device in question, there are "2" of them per device I want you to check. They just unplug. Then, connect the metal parts together (the conducting parts will ALL look
like this :

Then, for ADDED safety, before plugging the machine back in and testing it, put some electrical tape around the connected ends so they wont short to any metal.
Basically, what you are doing is "bypassing" the devices (thermal fuse, thermal cutoff) to determine if one of them is at fault for your no-heat condition.
This is NOT how we do things in the field, UNLESS our meter gets broken or lost, but works as well and IS safe FOR TESTING/DIAGNOSIS as long as you feel safe working with electricity. Please let me know if you need more clarification.
Eric and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

thanks...i'll give it a shot. I appreciate the prompt and clear instructions.

Not a problem! Good luck with your repair!