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Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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I have a kenmore model 110.96589210 dryer that quit heating,

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I have a kenmore model 110.96589210 dryer that quit heating, I have changed out the heating element, and it still has no heat, what is the next component that I need to check and where would it be located on the machine?


HiCustomer My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you today!
Well, normally when that machine has no heat, the element is NOT the first thing we check because believe it or not, it is usually LESS likely to be the problem then the following :

1) Check your power supply for 240VAC at the terminal block where the power cord goes into the machine. You must have 120VAC between EACH one of the outer terminals TO the center (neutral), AND 240VAC between both outer terminals (L1 + L2). Remember, the dryer can still run with just L1 at 120VAC BUT in order to have heat, you need BOTH L1 and L2 circuits.

2) Look at the diagram. remove the lint screen and then remove part #45. Now you have access to part #59 which is the thermal fuse. Some of these dryers had this fuse wired in series with both the motor AND the heater and some JUST the heater, either way, without heat, this MUST be checked. If you dont have a meter to check it for continuity, connet the wires together and see if you get heat. If so, replace this thermal fuse.

3)Part #47 is the high limit thermal cutoff. It is wired in series with JUST the heater so, when airflow is restricted over the element and the high limit thermostat, part #48 fails to open fast enoug, this acts as a failsafe and does not reset. Again, with no meter to check this for continuity, connect the wires togethether for this device and test again.

One of these will most likely be your problem, but if not , there ARE more possibilites which ARE possible but much less likely than the ones I listed above.

4) WOrn and/or failed timer contacts in the main timer, bad heat selector switch, worn contacts in the centrifugal motor switch (yes, the motor has an automatic switch for the heater in it too!)

Since you have already replaced the element, you know that is not the problem so I did not include it here but normally I check that somewhere after step 1 and just before or during step 3. Just so you know, the element terminals can be checked for continuity with meter while it is still installed but if yo dont have one, you can pull it out of the machine and do a visual check. You will be able to see where it is open. Check both sides of it.

Having a meter helps ALOT with diagnosing these and I reccomend you get one to make this easier in the future. Please let me know if you need any further information about any of this!

Edited by Eric on 10/5/2009 at 6:16 PM EST
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