Thanks for that link to the picture of your replacement timer. Unfortunately, that and all the descriptions of the terminals and the wires coming out of each one will do no one any good without the scematic/wiring diagram unless they have a photographic memory of timer input/output wire colors and terminal numbers, which I am happpy to admit, I do not posses. In order to answer that question, I will (or you will ) need the wiring diagram for the washer . Every
machine has a schematic/wiring diagram located under the console of the machine, unless someone has removed it
. If you find yours and you know how to read it, there is the answer to the question about where to test. All of your timer and drive system circuits are at 120VAC.
You dont need to "monitor" anything, unless you feel like it. A simple measurement when the machine has failed will suffice. Basically, you're going to check for voltage into the motor,right at the motor harness connector on the the motor itself when the motor has stopped unexpectedly
, and if you find it, you can rule out timer, lid switch, harness shorts, basically everything except the motor itself.
Now as far as that "thermostat", remember, there is no "thermostat" on the motor or anywhere on the machine. I am only bringing this up because you seem motivated , and I would hate for you to go into a parts house or some online place looking for a motor thermostat that does not exist. It is a thermostatic switch which we just call the "motor thermal protector" or "motor thermal cutoff" and if it is the culprit, we can test between two terminals on the motor for open circuit very soon after the motor stops running, but once it cools , that switch will close again, sometimes fast, sometimes slower but unless the motor never
runs and you want to find out why, there really is no reason to check it this way. If it is activating and you rule out all sources of excess mechanical drag that could lead to motor overheating, like worn bearing in the tub (if that were the cause, your failure would ONLY happen during the spin) , worn gearbox or seizing gearbox(same as before, if this were the case, the intermittent nature of the problem would be less intermittent, rather it would be isolated to either a spin phase or agitate phase exclusively), slipping belts, something stuck between the basket and the tub (spin phase only) , then you must replace the entire motor. It is part #12002353 which is subbed from the original 201807, and is $160 give or take.
Now, as far as the value of repair vs. replacement, that is purely
up to you. Do you want to invest the time in diagnosing, then the time in repairing as well as the actual cost of the parts? Thats up to you . For me, I tend to look at the bigger picture. I could repair it now, but because this is such an old machine, the way MY mind works is that I am not getting long term
value because of Murphie's Law, something else will break and now I've spent more money and time than the machine was ever worth, let alone what its worth now. That is JUST ME though.
Edited by Eric on 9/29/2009 at 3:05 AM EST