How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Bryan Your Own Question
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12156
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Bryan is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Hi Having a problem with the dishwasher, there is no

This answer was rated:


Having a problem with the dishwasher, there is no water.

The valve is open, and there is water pressure, there is power to the panel(execpt for when I'm under he hood:).

I removed the intake valve (8268572), the screen was a bit dirty. There is 2.7 volts at the valve.

The float valve seems to operate correctly and also has 2.7 volt when the switch is activated.

I thought their was supposed to be 120 volts at the valve.

Where do I check next the control panel?

What else could stop the water from entering?


you should get 120 volts to the valve. I think you are missing the neutral to this. are you sure the float is working? did you take the wires off and check for continuity? can you give me model #? thanks Bryan , what kind of d/w is this?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

I toke the float apart and looked at the switch, it looked fine, I measured the voltage between the lead feeding the float switch and it read 2.7 volts with the cycle started( the point where the water valve should be turning on).

The model is Kenmore (Whilpool ) 665.15912.


Resistence at the water silenoid is .0672 .

The Switch is OK.


I removed the front panel, the control board shows no heated area, haven't checked the thermo resistor that is on it


I did notice by the exhaust air vent the wires going to it looked tike they heated up. I presume this is so sort of Hi temp cutoff switch?? Could this have overheated and caused the votage to the water valve shut off?


" I think you are missing the neutral to this" not sure what this means, I am measuring the voltage between the wires.


Thanks for the help!




this nis your water valve , Part 961991there should be 120 volt to this when its trying to fill. what I meant by neutral is the white wire is the neutral wire and is the ground sorta for the valve. try putting your meter in the other side of the plug not the white wire side and put the other probe to ground, and try it , see if you get 120. volts then, and yes the wires near the vent that go to the switches could be the problem, these send the power back to the system including the water valve. check all your switches in the top. let me know, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Hi again:

Tried again with all wires and to ground

There is no 110 at the valve.

There is no 110 to the wire feeding the float switch.


Put a Jumper across the door switch.

There is 110 on both black wires going into the front of the control panel.

There is no voltage to the blue/black wire plug at the vent

There is no voltage to the white plug at the vent. Maybe this only works on the heat cycle?



The control panel seems to come on as normal saying 95 minutes, this is the point where we normally hear the water filling, and when I checked the voltages at the vent float and valve.

"Check all the switches in the top" I presume you mean door switch as there another one? The control panel buttona seems to work.


Starting to seem like the contol panel (however impropable) to me.


I would press accept button but I'm afraid it would end the session.

but I will certainlly do it!


Thanks again







you shouldn't have any power to the white wire its a ground , as far as the vent wire you may be right about the heat. its beginning to sound like the control board to me also, it has relays on it that sends power to the valve , the black square boxes on this, Part(NNN) NNN-NNNN width=on the right side are the relays. I think one may be bad but you cant really know for sure, it may be the brain which is like a computer and controls everything.
Bryan and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

I will check the relays, wish it had been a cheaper solution!


Thanks again


I wish they left these machines in their original design, everything has computer chips and electronics in them now..very unreliable , machines used to last 15 years now they last 1 to 2 years before having trouble if that! sorry theres only so much you can do before you start replacing things and get to the bottom of a problem. thank you, XXXXX XXXXX Bryan
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Hi Bryan:

Yeah I know what you mean about these boards lasting! Comsumer Reports says the avarage life span of an appliance is 7 years! As a comsumer the problem is figuring out what appliances are well made. Paying more does not always work! What do you think of Kichen Aid or Bosh for DW or are the all the same under the hood like computers>


I looked at the back of the board and there is a trace that is burnt. Its coming from on of the pins of the relay (front side close to 110 feeds) Of course this is only the canary. What caused the trace to overhead in the first

place. So before I put a goob of solder to patch the trace I going to test that valve solenoid to see what sort of amps its eating, I don't have a amp meter so i'll use a thin wire for testing. Anyhow that's my final bet!


Hell if that don't work,lets grap a six pack and take it to the dump.

We can probaby come back from there with something better : )









probably would come back from dump with something all the new machines are having trouble theres no getting around it. who knows what caused the burn ,could have been a power surge or almost anything. good luck , and thanks , Bryan