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Have John Deere 2510 gas. Backing up weeks ago it just died.

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Have John Deere 2510...

Have John Deere 2510 gas. Backing up weeks ago it just died. No fire I think. Replaced points (set at .020), condenser, new coil (6 volt like original). It still does not fire. Have 5.5 volts to coil and not much more than 1.5 volts into distributor. Any help appreciated.

Mechanic's Assistant: Sometimes things that you think will be really complicated end up being easy to fix. The Heavy Equipment Mechanic I'm going to connect you with knows all the tricks and shortcuts.

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Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Agriculture and Farm Equipment
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
6/15/2020
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago
Curtis B.
Curtis B., Technician
Category: Agriculture and Farm Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 43,334
Experience: Technican turned service manager on multiple lines of equipment and rental equipment.
Verified

Hi,let's see if we can work together to get to the root of your problem! I will try my best to help!

2510 shows to be a 12-volt tractor. You should have 12 volts to the positive side of the coil, and if the coil has an internal resistor, it should have 6 volts to the distributor. Where are you getting 6 volts?

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
5.5 at the +side of coil. The original coil was a 6 volt coil
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

You need a 12 volt coil with an internal resistor.

Where is the 5.5 volts coming from? It's being cut down before the coil and at the coil.??

You do have 12-volt battery and it is charged?

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Have 12 volt battery it is weak/ not fully charged but jumper cables bring voltage to in excess of 13 volts. Have selinoid on starter. The small lug at about 7 o'clock reads 5.5 as well. At one time it read same as battery. I am confused because ORIGINAL coil was 6 volt. When turning it over the wire from negative side of coil reads only about 1.2 volts at lug in distributor
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

Battery cable at the starter has to be the same as battery voltage, if not, bad cable connections. You have to get 12 volts to the coil, not sure why it would have a 6 volt coil.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Voltage at main post on selinoid is strong 12 volts. Should the terminal at 7 o'clock read 12 volts as well? The tractor ran for many years with the 6 volt coil until one day quit in the field. Got it running with carb rebuild and new coil ( not realizing the old coil was 6 volt I was given 12 volt coil and it ran until recent problem arose). Could the problem be the selinoid not getting adequate voltage to coil?
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Any more thought?Have you abandoned me?Would like more help.
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

All the terminals on the solenoid should read 12 volts. Run a wire direct from the battery positive to the coil to see if the tractor will start with 12 volts to the coil. Experts work from home, I had errands to run, and now am back online.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Thnx. Will get back to you
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

OK>

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
terminal on left reads 0 w/key off. Terminal on right reads 0 w/ key off. With key on left reads 5.5 and right still 0. Turning motor over left terminal reads 10+ and right reads 9+. Put new battery in. Old was bad. Have not jumped wire from battery to coil yet. That jumper would need to be connected as I attempt to start I assume.
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

Voltage should be same as battery voltage, so it should be 12 + volts, you don't have good voltage, if the battery is new, you need to revisit the battery cables and the negative connection to the frame.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I have 12 volts plus at large center terminal on selinoid. Where else should I check?
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

What matters is the battery voltage from the key switch to the ignition coil.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Thnx for info and your patience. I am not much of a mechanic.
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

Try with the jumper direct from the battery to the coil.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Jumper did not help. Would still not start. Calling it a night. Thnx again
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

Points need to be checked with ohm meter, point only ground when points are closed, open until they close. Do you have a new condenser? I would find a new 12 volt points coil with an internal resistor.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Do have new condenser, new points, new distributor cap, new 6 volt coil ( went like original set up). Will soon ohm out points and look into different coil. Am 73 and tired now. Thnx again for all the help.
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

I'm with you 74 and hanging on.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Did some detective work. Some 2510 models had a wire from switch to coil with built in resister in wire. I have 4.5 volts to coil with switch on. When trying to start that voltage bounces around between 9-10 volts but still not starting or firing. Points seem to ohm properly. Lots of questions. You mentioned 12 volt coil with internal resistor. Would that resolve all this you think. I am going to forward you a couple of pictures with questions.
Mechanic: Curtis B., Technician replied 2 years ago

Points are not set right, they should be set on the tip of the highest point of the cam, so they close when the cam turns. With coils, and resistors, you only want one resistor, if you have an external and an internal, it drops the voltage too much. Parts look like it could have been a resistor.

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