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Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Acura Technician
Category: Acura
Satisfied Customers: 48370
Experience:  16 years of experience
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cl: Greetings. THE CAR: I have a 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Prem.,

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Greetings. THE CAR: I have a 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Prem., with 4spd auto trans. Tag on the transmission says it is a model M7ZA-1020778. Vin: 19UYA225XVL004956 . Current mileage: 143k. I purchased the car new and my wife has driven it as a commuter car for 15 years. It has been dealer serviced and the transmission was replaced by the dealer at 105k miles. (2008) The ignition switch was also replaced under warranty in 2004. THE PROBLEM(s): 3 weeks ago, my wife the D4 light flashed and the Check Engine light stayed on at START-UP. She limped home with the car stuck in 4th gear. I drove the car and was able to shift through the gears manually. I removed and replaced the battery cable and the car returned to normal operation. Several days later, while driving at 60mph, she said the tach and speedo needles dropped to zero and the car lost power on the highway momentarily. It came back to life in a moment and drove normally. The C/E light did not turn-on. (I then declared the car unreliable and she got a new car) I have driven the car since then while preparing it to go to it's next life. The car drove fine for a few days and then the D4 problem returned. I checked error codes and got: P0700, P1739, P1768, and P1773. I talked to a Honda trans rebuilder and was told to replace the 3 solenoids included in part 28010-P7Z-305. I was preparing to do that, when the problem changed somewhat. 2 days ago, while driving at 65mph, the SRS and C/E lights flashed, then the dash instruments stopped working, the dash went dark, the car lost power and coasted to stop. I though I could detect a faint smell of hot electrics in the car. I tried to restart several times, but it would start for an instant and die. I couldn't keep it running. I had enough tools to remove and replace the battery cable, and the car started again. D4 was flashing, but I was able to shift manually and drive car about 5 miles home at highway speed using all gears. Now it's sitting in the garage waiting for a fix. QUESTIONS: I hate intermittent electrical problems! Should I replace the solenoids as I was told? I have removed them from the car and bench tested them - they all cycle properly (in a static test, with no heat or pressure, and just a few cycles). Will they fail intermittently and return to normal function? Can they cause the car to stop running? I don't want spend $300 on solenoids to discover I've got a problem with the control module or ignition switch, or whatever. What steps do I take? Thanks.


PS: When this first occurred, I reseated all electrical connectors under the hood and all fuses and relays.

Hello, I'm Chris. Thanks for visiting Just Answer.


) This is not an answer nor a direct info request to your concern.
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I am sorry you have had to wait so long for the first contact. Sometimes this happens when the question you ask is not detailed enough or its just hard to address online. Many have viewed your post, but have decided to pass. I will do my best to help you. I have access to many repair sites, so at the least I can provide something to address at least part of your concern if it is not something I can address from memory and experience.

I work on this site only in the evening hours 7 days a week. I am online normally from 3-midnight. At the latest you should get a response from me prior to 9pm TN time.

Thanks for using our site, we will do all we can to earn your business, again sorry we did not get to you sooner.




Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, I would like a second opinion before I spend $300 on solenoids. The error codes I gave you are: P0700 "Transmission fault - check other codes", P1739 "Auto transaxle concerns", P1768 "Open or short circuit or failed pressure control solenoid A", P1773 is the same condition for solenoid B. I think the my question is basic electrical logic for people that know these cars. Can a failed trans solenoid really cause the complete electrical malfunction and shut-down I described? No fuses blow and the car drives fine after clearing the codes. If the answer is 'Yes', I'll replace the solenoids. But if the answer is 'NO', a bad trans solenoid won't kill the engine and stop the car, I'll save the $ and look at the some other component like the control module or ignition switch. Or? Thanks, Bob

Yes you should replace the solenoids since you have issues and codes that do indicate they are not performing optimum. This however is not your only concern, you have other issues causing the car to stall and not start, which at this time appear to be a concern with the cars computer.


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Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks for the help. I suspected that the car was suffering from 2 different problems that just happen to begin around the same time.

It went from being a reliable commuter to electrical chaos in two weeks.

I appreciate the input and I'll provide a good rating. Bob