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Martin
Martin, auto electrical
Category: VW
Satisfied Customers: 730
Experience:  South African Trade Diploma in Auto Electrical
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Volkswagen Jetta: I have a 2004 VW Jetta TDI-PD (BEW). While

Customer Question

I have a 2004 VW Jetta TDI-PD (BEW). While driving today, when downshifting from 3rd or 2nd gear, the engine would die (with the clutch depressed). No sputter or other such indication that it stalled besides the lit battery light on the dash. It would immediately and easily restart while coasting.
After about the third instance, I pulled into a parking lot where it promptly stalled and then would not restart.After numerous failed attempts to restart, we let it set for a while. Eventually, My husband tried again and the car started. We sat with the car idling for about 5-10 minutes when it suddenly died. His foot was not on the gas, it was in neutral and just died. Subsequent attempts to restart similarly failed.
Any guidance you can provide to help us troubleshoot would be appreciated.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: VW
Expert:  Martin replied 1 year ago.
Hello, Welcome to Just Answer.I need some information. Before the engine died was the Battery light on?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Martin, nice to meet you. No, the battery light was not on. It only came on after the car stalled.
Expert:  Martin replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
Thank you for the information. Nice to meet you too.
There are several things that can cause this behavior.
1. MAF sensor.
2.Crank shaft position sensor.
3.Immobilizer.
4.Purge valve.
5.Low battery voltage.
6.A really bad dirty fuel filter.
To really know what is causing this one need to scan the ECM engine control module and obtain the fault codes.
The one that normally does this is the crank shaft sensor. This sensor is next to the engine oil filter and operates in a very hot area and as a result from all the heat the internal wiring spool get damage sending a really bad signal to the ECM triggering a fault code cutting the engine for protection against possible engine damage.
Thus I would recommend you get the fault codes. At times there are no fault codes stored with this behavior. That means the sensor is working but is just sending a weak signal causing the ECM to cut the engine. The sensor can be tested with a VAG-COM scanner tool for signal strength, so in that way one can then also tell if it is the fault.
I hope you find all this information helpful should you need more assistance do not hesitate to ask
Greetings,
Martin.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Martin, there has been a check engine light for a while, along with a corresponding P0672 fault code (#2 glow plug). There are no new fault codes with the current behavior. Unfortunately, we do not have ready access to a VAG-COM scanner.
Expert:  Martin replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
The glow plug might have a brunt heating element and needs to be replace. You can have the car scanned at a reputable repair shop that should have a VAG-COM scanner tool. One can however also take a resistance reading with a multi meter on the crank shaft sensor. This will mean disconnecting the sensor from the harness not a easy task to get to the wiring. The reading should be 700-950 K ohms at room temperature. There are three terminals two will read and one must be open circuit. The open circuit wire is the interference cord.and must be open circuited to both the other two wires and the body of the sensor.
This test will not tel you if there where heat damage causing a weak signal as the wiring spool will still have the same resistance up until a internal short cause the spooled wires to make contact with each other. The heat cause the internal spool of wire to mis form away from the laminated metal core.
Hope this helps,
Martin.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Martin,Sorry for the late response. We have been busy still working on the Jetta. We replaced the MAF (though I suspect it was fine) and the crankshaft position sensor (it was reading 380 Ohms and so needed replacing). We also added a diesel engine treatment to the fuel tank and some extra fuel. The car started up more immediately but now consistently stalls right around 1000 rpm. I am suspecting some kind of sensor failing or valve sticking, but am not sure. So we are continuing to troubleshoot. I appreciate the suggestions you provided.
Expert:  Martin replied 1 year ago.
Hi,Thank you for getting back to me.You can try by replacing the fuel filter first. At times there a dirt in the fuel clogging the filter.Greetings,Martin.

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