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VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000
As drive belts wear, they tend to stretch, or lengthen. As a belt stretches over time, the tension decreases, which causes the belt to slip on the pulleys. This slippage not only causes operating problems (erratic steering, high engine temperatures, and charging system problems), but also can greatly accelerate wear and damage to the belts themselves. Excessive slippage can cause a drive belt to glaze, overheat, and eventually break. Regular Inspection and adjustment of the accessory drive belts will prolong their life, and ensure proper operation of belt-driven components.
To thoroughly inspect accessory drive belts, it's advisable to remove the lower engine cover, and view the condition of the belts through the right front wheel housing. If necessary, raise and safely support the vehicle to allow access. Viewing the belts from the engine compartment is sometimes possible, but belt-driven components such as the power steering pump and air conditioner compressor are often out of view from the engine compartment.
Inspect the belts for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately. It is always best to replace all drive belts at one time, as a preventive maintenance measure, during this service operation.
Fig. Early tensioners such as the gear type are shown here
Fig. Simply turn the gear type with a wrench to adjust
Fig. Once the belt is loosened, slide it off the pulleys to remove it
Fig. ALWAYS mark the direction of rotation of a belt BEFORE removal
Fig. Adjust tension by loosening both the pivot bolt and the upper adjustment bolt
To check belt tension on V-belts, push in on the drive belt about midway between the crankshaft pulley and the driven component. If the belt is less than 39.4 in. (1m) long, it should deflect between 1 / 16 - 1 / 8 inch (2-5mm). For longer belts, it should deflect between 3 / 8 0.40- 5 / 8 inch (10-15mm). Belt size is usually printed on the back side of the belt. If it can't be read, it's probably time to replace it.
To compensate for the stretching of the accessory drive belts, a means of adjustment is necessary. This can be accomplished by changing the distance between the crankshaft pulley and the driven component, or by means of a tensioning device using an idler roller. The models covered in this guide employ several methods to accomplish this task.
The current trend for most manufacturers is the use of a serpentine type drive belt that is kept in adjustment using an automatic belt tensioner. These automatic tensioners can be either a pivoting arm-type or an eccentric type.
The rotary method (most common with V-belts) involves the driven component being rotated on a pivot. A slotted bracket and or arm(s) is/are used to hold the component in place once the belt tension is set. Within this method, there are four variations. The most basic variation is a simple slotted bracket with a bolt. This requires pulling or pushing on the driven component to achieve the desired belt tension. Some early models use a spring-loaded alternator bracket that sets the belt tension after the slotted bolt is loosened.
Other models use a rack and pinion design on the slotted adjustment bracket. This allows for effortless belt adjustment, since the pinion gear has a hex head and can be turned with a wrench to make adjustments. The final variation of the slotted style adjustment design uses a long adjuster bolt that pushes or pulls the driven component once the slotted bolt is loosened.
The engines equipped with poly-ribbed belts are equipped with automatic adjusters, and Do NOT require adjustment. The spring action of the tensioner compensates for the stretching of the belt. The belts should be checked for belt stretch, wear or fluid damage and replaced if necessary. Check the maintenance recommendation chart for recommended routine replacement intervals.
: Alternator mounting with slotted brackets
As a safety precaution, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Slotted Brackets With adjustment Bolt
Fig. Some components, like this air conditioner compressor, use a slotted bracket with an adjustment bolt. To adjust the tension, loosen the slotted bracket bolt . . .
Fig. . . . and turn the adjustment bolt as necessary to achieve the proper belt tension
Rack And Pinion-type Slotted brackets
Fig. Loosen the tension bolt (shown) and the alternator pivot bolt until the alternator swings freely under its own weight
Fig. Adjust the V-belt by turning the nut on the tension bolt
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
If a belt must be replaced, the driven component must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position (usually by moving it toward the center of the motor). On models with automatic belt adjusters, the tensioner is moved to release tension on the belt, and then the belt is removed.
The 1.8L engines use three dive belts, two multi-ribbed, and a V-belt. The alternator, cooling fan and power steering pump are driven by a serpentine belt that is tensioned by a conventional automatic tensioner. The water pump is drive by second pulley mounted to the power steering pump. A separate multi-ribbed belt drives the air conditioner. It uses a tensioning roller that must be preloaded and tightened in place to tension.
When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt, the width of the belt, the depth of the belt and the angle or profile of the V shape (always match up old belt with new belt if possible). The belt shape should exactly match the shape of the pulley; belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure.
After the new belt is installed, adjust it for proper tension. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job; you may find an assistant helpful. Make sure that all the bolts you loosened are retightened and that any other loosened belts have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to stretch a bit after installation so be prepared to re-adjust your new belt.
FIG : When removing ribbed belts, it's a good idea to mark the rotation direction of the belt if it is to be reused
Fig. Ribbed style serpentine belt
FIG : On 1.8L engines, use an open-end wrench to move the automatic tensioner. Align the tensioner and housing holes. Lock it in place using a suitable drift
FIG : The tensioner assembly on the 1.8L engine shown retracted using a suitable hex tool
FIG : On 1.8L engines, remove the fan pulley by counter holding it with a suitable drift, and loosen the fastener with an 8 mm hex wrench
FIG : On 1.8L engines, loosen the air conditioner tensioner fasteners to allow for belt removal
FIG : To tension the air conditioner belt on 1.8L engines, apply an 18 ft. lb. (25 Nm) load on the tensioner, and then tighten the fasteners
Hi. My wife is waiting for me to head out for dinner. I'll read this in detail when I get home. Thanks for your response!
FIG : On V6 engines, pivot the tensioner clockwise until the two holes are aligned and insert a suitable drift to keep it retracted
that will be fine
Key List for 93221g16:
FIG : Belt routing for the 1.8L engines
Fig. Belt routing for the V6 engine
Fig. Belt routing for the VR6 engine
Fig. Belt routing for the 1995-96 Passat 2.0L ABA engine
Fig. The 1.8L A/C belt is accessed from under the vehicle
Fig. The belt tensioner on the 1.8L engine is held retracted using a suitable drift of hex key wrench
The information you gave me helped. I put the new belt on but it seems too loose. I tightened the pulley and there is still more than 1/2" deflection. The belt looks exactly like the old one (which broke). This is one of those belts where there is no adjustment and you have to take the two halves of the pulley apart to install it. Should I buy another belt from somewhere else and see if it's tighter?
the belt you got may have been longer..yes,you may want to try another one....if you still have your old belt,,take it with you,they can measure it
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