I have a 2002 VW cabrio convertible. I use the 12v power outlet to charge my phone and/or my ipod. It recently has stopped working, even after replacing the fuses,which was my first impression on most power issues.I used the manual to see which fuses I needed,its light blue 15 amp ATC. Even after replacing the fuses,I am still having this issue. Everything works in my vehicle,except the power outlet.I only use this occasionally to charge my ipod or cell phone.What other issues can it be? ALSO: I have a pinching problem in my driver window and I dont't know how to reset it,there is no blockage and when it rains, the water seeps through the window to leak on my seat.I am looking for rain guards/deflectors which I don't seem to find.Any ideas?
Year: 2002Make: VolkswagenModel: GLSEngine: Automatic
Replacing the fuses and reading the manual. For the rain guards,I just googled and found nothing.
If the fuse for the power outlet is ok but the outlet is not working it must be something in between. I would check the wiring and connector at the power outlet first. You will need a voltmeter and you will need to remove the trim that surrounds the outlet.If the windows are stopping short of the top of the window this means the safety stop has incorrectly been learned. This could have been caused by a binding window regulator (does the window move slower in some spots when going up/down?).To reset all the windows the easiest was is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect it. Be sure you have the key out of the ignition and out of the car when you do this. Also make sure you have the radio code in case the radio goes in to "safe" mode (usually it doesn't). Once the battery is reconnected, run each window all the way down, then all the way up, then click the switch several more times in the up direction. The window is now programmed.
Sounds confusing.I'm a girl, I only know so much. Ha ha. I'm uneducated where it comes to the part mentioning that the window safety stop has not been learned.I have noticed when I do open my window,it will come up fine until midpoint and jerk back down quickly.I will attempt again,and it jerks up,pauses and either stays where it is,or goes down.I wouldn't know what a radio code is, and the manual is ridiculous to understand.Besides this,if my power outlet WAS working until recently,what could have caused a wiring issue if the outlet was not toyed with?
When I get this voltmeter,what am I supposed to be looking for once I remove this trim?
Never mind resetting the pinch protection, this will not fix your problem.The window regulator has failed and is binding causing the window to get stuck when moving up and then the pinch protection reverses direction. The window regulator will need to be replaced and/or repaired (sometimes they have a repair kit). Expect to pay 1.5 to 2.0 hours to have this done.A blown fuse is the cause of an inoperative outlet 99% of the time. If all the fuses are OK it is possible the connector became disconnected from the outlet.
Okay. So I will use the voltmeter to remove the trim and see if the connector is connected or not.
Is that possible if something such as a charger of the sort is pulled roughly or turned while in the outlet to cause this?
If so,then I may be sure that the connector is disconnected. Am I be able to fix the outlet on my own? If so, how? How would I know if it is connected or not?
Ok thank you for the window issue.That will be resolved by my mechanic.
I am not sure if you should tackle the outlet problem your self.The voltmeter is used to check the electrical voltage after you get the socket out.If you have to take your car to your mechanic for the window you could ask him if they will check the outlet for you as well. If it is something simple they should not charge you much if anything.
As far as the window regulator goes,I am aware that there are few types. I would have to get a power regulator but with or without the motor?
Most of the time (90%) you don't need the motor so you can save approximately $200 by getting it without.
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