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The oil level is good and he doesnt have a meter in the car for pressure but I would assume if the pressure is low he would get a light instead? He purchased the car about a year ago and put the last 12K on it. In that time its had regular oil changes but we cant speak of what happened before that. I can say it idles well and runs strong until the meter goes to the first line past 190. My 2.0 liter 00 Golf runs at 190 100% of the time after warm up and never goes over that but I am in Northern NH. Different weather. When he was in VA the temp meter never went over 190, this just started in the last two weeks. hes been driving it in FLA for about 2.5 months now.
I will have him check to see if when he turns on the A/C both fans come on or if just one comes on. We know that with no A/C on the fans dont operate. What would the cause be? Sensor? Relay? Fuse?
What would be the reason for the Turbo not coming on? I would assume some aspect of turbo operation is controlled by the ECU / ECM? Is there a temp related sensor that could cause the ECU to delay or prevent the turbo from operating in an "overheat" situation? Is the wate gate electronically controlled so that the boost could be limited in an overheat situation by the ECU / ECM?
Turbochargers are subject to enormous amounts of heat and friction due to the speeds at which they operate. On some models the turbine shaft can rotate at speeds up to 70,000 rpm. Most turbo's are cooled and lubricated by a oil supply line from the vehicles engine that feeds the unit a fresh stream of filtered oil. There is also a return line back to the oil pan. The oil in this feed line is the life line of the turbocharger. Its like blood is to a human being, without it, the turbo will cease to operate. This is just another example of why it is important that you change the oil at the manufacturers recommended intervals. If sludge formed in these lines and reduced the flow, the turbocharger unit would wear out very rapidly.
Fig. Exploded view of the intake and exhaust manifold, turbocharger and related components-1.9L (AHH) engine
Fig. Exploded view of the intake and exhaust manifold, turbocharger and related components-1.9L (AAA) engine
Fig. Exploded view of the intake and exhaust manifold, turbocharger and related components-1.9L (ALH) engine
Fig. exploded view of the turbocharger and related components-1.8L engine (AEB/ATW/AWV)
Fig. Exploded view of the hoses related to the turbocharger-1.8L engine (AEB/ATW/AWV)
Fig. exploded view of the turbocharger and related components-1.8L engine (AWP/AWW)
Fig. Exploded view of the hoses related to the turbocharger-1.8L engine (AWP/AWW)
Fig. exploded view of the turbocharger and related components-1.8L Engine
Fig. Exploded view of the vacuum hoses related to the turbocharger-1.8L Engine
Fig. The turbo-charger as viewed from the engine compartment
Fig. Exploded view of the turbocharger and related components-1.8L engine (AEB/ATW/AWV)
Fig. Exploded view of the turbocharger and related components-1.8L engine (AWP/AWW)
Wategate Bypass regulator valve. Is this component mechanical or electrical?
So if the car overheats and the ECU /ECM says the car is too hot to boost this component could prevent the turbo from boosting manifold pressure to prevent damage to the engine??????
Do you know at what temp the the ECU / ECM may cut the turbo boost to protect the engine????
Can you tell me what temperature the engines cooling system would reach for the ECU / ECM to start to limit Turbo boost. In our IHI systems we use in the snowmobile industry, a coolant temp of 215 would trigger the first reduction in boost output. I am looking for the number that occurs in a VW engine?
How many temp sensors are there? I am assuming two as we use two in our snowmobiles, one in the engine itself and one in the radiator lower half.
Sorry to be so detailed with my questions but I have been in service and repair for recreational motorsports for 23 years. I was the North American Technical Coordinator for one of the current ATV / Watercraft / Snowmobile manufactures in the midwest for many years. Its the way my brain works.......lol
I wish I had talked to you from the begining. I CAN HAVE HIM CHECK THE IMPELLER OF THE WATER PUMP WITHOUT REMOVING IT? The other guy only had me check coolant flow into the tank at 2000 rpm.
1. No codes
2. Coolant is flowing into the tank at 2000 rpm through the small line
3. Fans come on when AC is turned on
4. Car has 50/50 mix dexcool in it as of about 6 months ago.
5 Coolant tank was replaced for a small crack in the bottom
6. Sensor is already the green sensor, I had him verify that
7. I dont know at what temp the fans are supposed to come on without the A/C.
The car has always run 190 steady on the meter like my 2.0 golf. This started about 2-3 weeks ago.