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Matt C.
Matt C., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Volvo
Satisfied Customers: 41
Experience:  Master Automotive Technician
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No spark on 2002 Volvo S80 t6. I replaced the engine with a

Customer Question

No spark on 2002 Volvo S80 t6. I replaced the engine with a used one with 57k. It was hard to start but would start eventually after draining the battery trying. When it did start it would misfire in cylinder 4 and 5 . I pulled the codes and got crank sensor and misfire in cylinder 4,5 . I replaced the crank and bracket with the update one as well as new coils on 4 and 5 still the problem remained eventually it stopped starting so I towed it to Volvo and they said crank sensor which I already knew and a bad ground between the block and transmission or bent flywheel . They wanted to pull the engine to check but couldn't tell me a price range so I said No I will pull it myself and check. Paint was on the block the flywheel was true. I cleaned the paint and still no spark. What could it be that I'm missing at the moment I have no codes ?b
JA: There are so many things that can cause battery issues. Some simple, some complicated. The mechanics have tons of experience in that area. Will the car start?
Customer: No it isn't a battery issue
JA: Got it. The mechanic will have thoughts on how you two can troubleshoot and diagnose this issue. How old is the battery?
Customer: You're a robot
JA: Anything else I can tell the Volvo Mechanic before I connect you two?
Customer: Connect me
JA: Got it. Let's get this figured out. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Volvo Mechanic about your situation and connect you two. You'll be on the road in no time.
Submitted: 8 months ago.
Category: Volvo
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Hello, I would like to see if I can assist you. Are you able to view engine data on your scan tool?
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
If you are able to, I wanted to see if you are able to graph the RPM's while trying to start and see if there is a dead spot.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I have an actron scanner it shows some data
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I would do the talk on the phone but I'm deaf so it won't work I have to connect the battery to the car
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I am unsure if the Actron will show a graph but it should at minimum show you the RPM data. You will be trying to see if it at any time drops to 0. You said you had to scrap paint off of the block? Sorry, I didn't understand that part.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I bought the engine from a salvage yard it had the metal paint on it to appear new on the entire engine so I notice it on the part that mates to the transmission so I used some Emory cloth and paint thinner to remove that. I even added additional grounding straps connecting the transmission and block.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I won't be able to check the scanner tonight the battery is drained from too many cranks again if I check it and the rpms drop to 0 then what?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I'm looking to purchase a Vida tool but it seems most of them run Windows 7 could you recommend one
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Did you use the flywheel from the salvage motor or the one from the engine you took out?I am trying to determine if this is a problem from the flywheel itself.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I used the flywheel from the previous engine I already had
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It is covered with rust but I doubt that would be a problem
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Sorry, I have not used any of the Vida tools before. I currently use a Snap-on Modis (which I love) but completely unreasonably priced.A light coating of rust shouldn't be an issue, anything built up on the flywheel could cause a false reading though.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I think a scan tool would be cheaper than another trip to a Volvo dealer no offense
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
That is true, and no offense taken.That flywheel has the pickup ring along the edge and it is pretty easy to damage, if you could remove the crank position sensor and spin the motor by hand, you could try and see if any of the "windows" are broken or deformed. Being that you had just put an engine in and you have a misfire with a crank position code, that would be one of the first things I would do.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I pulled the transmission yesterday and put it back I should have went ahead and changed the flywheel I guess I will be pulling the transmission again but I will take your suggestion first I will turn it and check although I didn't see anything yesterday while the transmission was out
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
At the moment I have no codes but did have the crank code previously and still have the same symptoms even with a new crank sensor which is no spark
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Definitely take my suggestion before taking the transmission back out. After you do that, come back and let me know what/if you find anything and we will take it from there.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok will do that tomorrow
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Well the flywheel appears to be fine I had a friend turn the engine while I look and I see nothing wrong with it other than rust
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
The engine rpm stays at 0 when I crank it
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I apologize for the delay. That is very odd to not have any RPM reading all of a sudden. I am sure you have probably done this, I would verify the part number on the crank position sensor you put it, verify all of the grounds are connected. If you have access to a wiring diagram you can do a resistance test on the wire from the PCM to the sensor to make sure you do not have a broken wire.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I'm positive all the grounds are connected it was only one and that was at the top passenger rear on the frame and top of the head. The part number is ***** . I have 3 different sensors 2 of them new. I don't have a wiring diagram though
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I am attaching the wiring diagram, in this diagram it is on the bottom left called "impulse sensor"
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I will do the resistance test tomorrrow and let you know the results I only have a few minutes before it gets dark during the week to mess around with the car on the weekends I have all day
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, no problem.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Thanks for all your help it is appreciated and I know you all don't get paid a lot for doing these answers online but if I can get this fixed I will gladly send you twice your asking price
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I appreciate that more than you know, it is just nice knowing someone appreciates the effort. Lets see if we can get you rolling again first though :)
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Unless I'm doing the test wrong the wires test good. I connected the leads between the crank sensor and the ecu and it's 0.00 on the voltmeter on both wires. So do you think it could be the ecu?
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
You are sure that you had the voltmeter switch set to read ohms and not volts?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Stupid I did have it on volts let me do it again I had it on DVD
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
DCV I mean
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Just to be sure I have it on the lowest setting which is 200 and it's reading 2.0 and 2.1
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Double check that reading just to be sure. That reading is pretty high. I would start looking for a pinched wire. Did that harness get snagged between the engine and transmission at all when you were bolting it all up?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
No but the original plug that goes into the crank sensor was damaged so I tried to splice another connector but it was from a junkyard so maybe that is bad too . It's still reading that but I will see what the reading is before where the splice is
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It's reading even hire at 2.2 and I'm positive it isn't pinched
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Higher I mean
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
If you touch your test leads together does your meter read OL?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
No it a cheap meter from harbor freights it reads 1.5
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, that is a problem lol. When you touch those leads together the meter should detect a short circuit and display "OL". Do you happen to know anyone that has a better meter so we can get some more accurate readings?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I'm going to make a trip to Lowe's to buy a better one
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Now it's reading 000.3 or 000.4
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It goes as high as 000.8
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
The white wire stays at 0L
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Maybe a little higher than I would like to see. With that sensor plugged in and the PCM connector unplugged, check the resistance across those two pins at the PCM. You are looking for a reading between 100-150
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
If I'm in the right spot with the pcm out I'm getting 1.240
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I put the leads on the connecter . Should I put it on the pcm too
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
No, do not put the leads directly to the PCM, you can damage it.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok well its 124 from the connector with the sensor plugged in
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Let me double check my resource because that reading to my knowledge is WAY out of spec.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I just thought about this, that 1.24 your reading does it read "1.24M"?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It just says 1.240 k and the ohms symbol it's an auto ranging multimeter
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I changed it to the m setting and it shows 0.000 ohms
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, that "k" changes things, that is indicating a reading of 1240 ohms. Which is high, which now makes sense. I had to draw a diagram here so I could make a little sense of what was going on. You said the white wire read O.L?
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
If that is true, see if you can tap a wire into that circuit from the sensor to the PCM and try starting the car. From what I am following along with this is looking like that wire has a bad connection somewhere along the line.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
When I connected a lead between the sensor and pcm on the white wire reads OL
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
If I connect the lead before where the splice is it reads 000.2 or 000.1 but when I move the lead to after the splice it reads OL
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Sounds like a bad splice.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok do you know if Volvo sells the connector that plugs into the crank sensor I prefer to put a new one on I'm only finding them at the junkyard .
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I honestly am unsure if Volvo will have it available separate from the engine harness.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I ordered one from O'Reilly's but it wasn't a direct fit I guess I will try the junkyard again and accept your answer
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
I appreciate it. We are not done though, I have to know the outcome of all of this and need to make sure you get up and running. I have become quite attached to this problem lol.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Alright I will let you know Saturday cause tomorrow I will be going to Houston after work and I will pick up a connector somewhere and let you know
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Sounds like a plan. Safe travels.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I have changed the connector with one from the junkyard it still doesn't start but I am now getting something from the rpms on the scan tool. When cranking the rpms shows about 132
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, that is a huge step in the right direction. Can you verify you are getting spark at coils?If you are getting spark I would like you to try and start the car while holding the gas pedal to the floor.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I'm going to pull a plug and see if I'm getting spark
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Gotta charge the battery again it'd a new battery but it seems to drain after 5 or 6 attempts of cranking it
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, take your time.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I have another question while I'm waiting for the battery to charge what should the resistance of the crank be according to specs? I have 3 sensors , 2 used and 1 new the new one reads OL the used ones are between 128 and 132
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Specification is 100-150.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I still don't see a spark when I pulled a plug .
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
On any cylinder?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I only pulled 2 I will check the other 4
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
No spark from either
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
With the ignition switched on, check one of the connectors for a coil (doesn't matter which one). See if you have battery voltage on the green/white wire. Also check the black wire for ground.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I put a lead on the green white wire and a groin wire it reads. 1.381 V
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, check fuse #11, should be a 20A fuse.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Fuse 11 is blown and I have no extras and no way to the store I will see if I can pull one from inside the car somewhere
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
OK, you should fire up after that. Fingers crossed.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I tested all if those with a test light previously so it's weird that it's blown but fingers crossed
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I have to install the plugs and coils back first then will let you know
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Crap I forgot to plug the crank sensor in and drained the battery so I will give it the night to charge and let you know first thing in the morning
Expert:  Matt C. replied 8 months ago.
Good job haha. The suspense is killing me. Talk to you in the A.M.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
It still doesn't want to fire up. The rpms goes as high as 170 on the scan tool . Pulled a plug again and still no spark
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
Have you double checked all of the fuses? Even the one you had just replaced.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I used a test light but I will just pull them and check
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
All fuses are good
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
OK, once again, with ignition on verify at a coil connector there is battery voltage at the green/white wire and then check the black wire for ground. Just to make sure, when you are checking for spark, you are grounding the spark plug against something?
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Basically I have the plug connected to a coil and it's standing up and I'm watching it as I turn the key
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I have 11 volts at the coil
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
OK, the metal body of the spark plug needs to be touching a piece of metal. If you have nothing else a set of jumper wires would work, just make sure you clamp it one end onto the engine, not the battery. Then set the spark plug in the other end.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
No spark I used a jumper wire and I did it with the plug against metal
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I'm suspecting something electrical the battery is flat again after charging all night and I have only tried cranking in it about 8 times. It's a new battery less than 2 months old
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Decided to scan for codes and I now have a P0335.
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
That is an ignition coil code for cylinder 5, it probably set when you were testing the wires. So I have your entire wiring diagram sprawled across my desk right now... It seems I have overlooked something, are the screws for the ignition coils installed right now?
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Yes they all are
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
According to what I am looking at right now, it looks like the control circuit (the signal from the PCM) is actually grounded with those bolts, so you never would see spark with the coil removed because then it looses its ground.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
So is it way to check spark with them connected?
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
What you could try is putting a small jumper wire from the bolt hole on the coil and attach the other end to a ground. Also, once again, have the spark plug grounded. The last thing to check is for a signal from the ECM which is a different color wire for every coil, you would have the voltmeter connected to the signal wire, have someone crank the car and see if the voltage varies.
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
I am going to attach your engine wiring diagram.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I will try that this afternoon or tomorrow have to go to church then drop my daughter back to Houston. I will let you know tonight or tomorrow
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I think it could be the wires though a lot of them are showing signs of age and heat exposure with cracking and the insulation peeling
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
Alright. I would do resistance checks on all of the wires you say the insulation is peeling on, make sure none of them are shorting out on each other.I apologize this has not gone smoother. I am trying my best to help you figure this out without physically being there. Talk to you soon.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
No apologies needed . I appreciate all the help I can get I just wish I had more time to actually do each suggestion right after you make it.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Do you know if this is the correct part for my volvo. The Web site says 2003-2006 if it isn't do you know the correct part number
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
Sorry, I am just now seeing this, would you be able to send me the last 8 of your Vin # ***** I can make sure?
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
21276008
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
OK, I am going to recommend taking a trip to the dealer to get the right part number. I ended up coming across 9 different part numbers for that harness, and it is not specifying to me what the difference between them is.I had tried calling them earlier and went back and forth because they wanted the whole VIN, not just the last 8.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I can give you the whole Vin if it's needed
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
OK, unfortunately their parts department is closed right now over here, so I will have to check back with them in the morning. Just to make sure, you are looking for the entire engine harness correct?
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
If that is what connects to the coils
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
I believe it all comes in one harness but I will double check.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I think so too and I saw it on that site for 250 so I was thinking that's not bad and it would save me time than checking each wire . It's my wife's car and she is driving me crazy to fix it.
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
I have to tell you, I do not think that is the correct part # ***** of the price. Engine harness are very expensive, generally speaking I would give them a range of about(###) ###-#### ***** is why we usually try and fix wiring instead of replacing the whole harness. I will try my best to get the right part # ***** you tomorrow and see what the price is for it and let you know. If it is really down to a time crunch, you may want to weigh your options and consider bringing it back into a shop. Electrical problems usually aren't quick fixes and take time, as you are only able to work on it a little at a time it may be beneficial.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Yea electrical problems do take time but it would be cheaper to replace the harness than putting it in the shop since the only volvo dealer here charges 135 per hour if I could get a harness for 500 I would be happy
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
After searching online I think I may have find one and the part number I have come up with is(###) ###-####and it's 850.00 . This is definitely the last used Volvo I buy.
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
OK, so I was able to get the part number for you today for the harness. It is part number(###) ###-#### ***** is also a a "cover" that is supposed to be sold at the same time which has a part #(###) ###-#### ***** harness is very expensive and has a list price of 1,214.18, the cover has a list price of 1.33. You may be able to try and find it cheaper online? Any used car can end up being a hassle, but Volvo's can be very costly just to maintain let alone getting repairs done.
Expert:  Matt C. replied 7 months ago.
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Wiring-harness/1192516/8622310.html has it cheaper at 979.44
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Thanks I will try that if it doesn't work I'm parting it out or wrecking it for the insurance money