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Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Volvo
Satisfied Customers: 20605
Experience:  Mechanical Engineer with 20 years experience in the auto industry, 8 yrs in formula 1 engine testing
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Our 2002 s40 with 150K miles makes a gh pitch whistle/whine

Customer Question

Our 2002 s40 with 150K miles makes a high pitch whistle/whine noise. When I presses the accelerator, in neutral, and the RPMs reaches 2500, the idle surges, then it stalls. It starts right back, but it still whines.
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself?
Customer: I've tried removing the dipstick and oil cap. That didn't help so I don't believe it is the oil trap.
JA: Is there anything else important you think the Volvo Mechanic should know about your Volvo?
Customer: I'm broke. I can't pay anyone to fix it and I have to have a car to get to work to pay my rent. Times are really tough right now.
JA: Our top Volvo Mechanic is ready to take your case. Just pay the $5 fully refundable deposit and I'll fill the Volvo Mechanic in on everything we've discussed. You can go back and forth with the Volvo Mechanic until you're 100% satisfied. We guarantee it.
Submitted: 8 months ago.
Category: Volvo
Expert:  Matt replied 8 months ago.

Hello

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Just cleaned the airflow meter and inspected it last week. Clean as a whistle. Tight as a drum. Could it be the turbo? It's not really a whistle. It's more of whine/whistle.
Expert:  Matt replied 8 months ago.

Hello

Ok is this the turbo diesel or petrol?