Need help with removing brake boosteron S80 2002- have booster loose but booster is hitting up against turbo intake metal pipe-can't figure out how to slide out booster?
Have already removed air filter box, fuse box, ABS and master cylinder.Also remove nuts holding booster inside firewall. Still can not get booster to slide out all the way - the turbo metal pipe isin the way.
Country: United StatesMake: VolvoModel: s80 2002 TurboYear: 2002
Hello, My name is XXXXX XXXXX X am a Volvo dealership technician. I am going to try to help you with your question. Can you take a picture of it hitting the pipe and upload it? I would like to see how much clearance you need.
Adding another picture for the other side - thanks Andy for looking into this
Perfect, thanks. You should have enough clearance when removing that pipe. You'll need to disconnect the plastic pipes going to the turbos. There's a clamp at the bottom of that pipe holding it to the turbo you'll need to loosen and then the pipe pulls out. You might also need to unbolt the transmission dipstick and move it (but not remove it). I would also recommend removing the brake pedal position sensor from the booster to prevent accidentally breaking it. Let me know if you have any other questions as you go.
Will do and get back if I run into any issues - may be a couple of hours.
No problem. I'll be at work so may not reply right away but I will check back when I can. Good luck!
Did not have much success with trying to loosen the clamp -very difficult to reach and is to the side (attaching picture of what I think should be loosening). Tried loosening with extensions and an universal socket-can try some more tomorrow.
Now I am thinking I should try moving the bunch of wires/connectors on the other side and try getting the brake booster out that way. I see there is a plastic casing with some connectors attached to it - any pointers on how to disassemble and move this out of the way. I am guessing there may be just enough clearance once these are moved.
Any suggestions if this will work (picture attached).
Hmm, I've never had much trouble getting the pipes off the turbos. I would use a 1/4" drive swivel socket on an extension. Not sure what you were using, but it was probably similar. It's possible the clamp is corroded and seized, which will make it quite difficult to remove without damaging it.
To move the harness, you would need to remove the wiper arms and the black cover at the base of the windshield. Even then, I'm really not sure how much you'll be able to move it. I've never had to move it to do a booster. It's worth a shot though, if you can get the arms off. You may need a puller. Sometimes you can just remove the nuts holding the arms on and then give the arm a few solid hits with your hand to loosen them up.
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Andy - thanks for pointing out that the turbo pipe is the way to go - I finally did manage to get it off - the bolt for the clamp was almost under the pipe and was very difficult to get to . Once I did make some room and after considerable coaxing was able to get it off. I have another problem I made for myself - dropped a small wrench under the metal casing under where the turbo pipe was removed. Can't see or feel it even by putting a long bar thru the gaps and feeling around. Do I need to get this from underneath? (Note: got it out from below) Thanks for answering my initial question - if you do not mind I'll keep the question open till I finish putting everything together.
Good, glad you were able to get it off and get the booster out of there. As for the wrench, you dropped it under the turbo? It might be sitting on top of the transmission, or it could have fallen all the way down onto the splash pan. You might be able to reach up from the bottom and feel around, but it can get tight. Also check on the subframe where the steering rack sits. A lot of times things that get dropped wind up there and can be easily missed. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Andy - thanks for all your help. I am going to close this question out and open a new one - I need help with matching up the connectors back to the master cylinder/ booster.