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Need4Swede, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Volvo
Satisfied Customers: 186
Experience:  ASE Master (A1-A8) and L1 Advanced Diagnostic. Volvo Certified, currently employed by Volvo dealer
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1999 Volvo: wagon..Car started and ran..ran fine..gas pedal

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1999 Volvo V70R wagon. Just had battery replaced (emergency, out of town) today. Car started and ran fine for about 30 minutes, then gas pedal had no response, car will idle along but when the gas pedal is depressed it will not respond. Stopped car for a few minutes, restarted had gas pedal response for about 15 seconds, then car went to idle again. Tow truck is on the way but need help. Nearest dealer is 90 miles away! That''s a towing bill!

Hello and thanks for choosing!

This sounds a lot like a throttle module problem. There is one thing you can try and that's to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then touch the negative cable to the positive terminal for about 30 seconds to reset the system. Try to start and run it after that. This sounds like something has lost communication for long enough to get it out of phase with the engine computer. Typically this is sign of a throttle module problem cropping up. Did you get an "ETS" light on the dash when this happened?

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Reply to Need4Swede's Post: I just completed your suggestion. The car started and for a few moments I had response from the accelerator, then I heard an audible click from the engine compartment (I had the hood open and an assistant standing there) then there was no longer a response from the accelerator. I shut the engine off and tried to restart only to get a "clicking" sound from the engine compartment and the engine did not start. I have waited 30 minutes and am still getting the clicking sound. The ETS light has never come on during this episode. Any ideas??
You may have a main relay going. It sounds like it's de-energizing and cutting power to the ETM (throttle module) or ECM (engine computer). There is a fuse box in the engine compartment right next to the driver's side shock tower. The main relay is in there. If you turn the cover over it says which position is which. I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me here at the house. You can try tapping on the relay when you try starting it, but it's easier to find another relay that matches and swap them out. There are a couple other matching relays that perform different functions that match the main relay. Try switching them and see if it runs.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Reply to Need4Swede's Post: I tried switching them to no avail. I did notice that the main relay was yellow in color and said "made in Spain" and the others were all black and had the Volvo logo on them. I found the diagram and I am heading to town to see if I can find replacements for the main one and the starter one. I will try to replace them and see what happens. Could changing the battery out cause a problem? My wife had it done at an Autozone when stranded in Burlington, Iowa.

One of them should be a yellow one. That's the main relay. Check the base of the relay and see if any of the terminals are discolored. If they are, it's probably not working correctly.

Having someone change a battery at Autozone is like playing Russian roulette. If they hooked the terminals up backwards, that could easily cause the problem your having. Hooking up the terminals backwards even for a second or two plays heck with the software in any of the modules. Hope that's not the case.

Hate to say it, but you may have to have it towed to someone that can hook it up to a diagnostic computer and read faults. My recommendation would be a dealer as they are the only ones that can download software if it needs it. Also, if it's a throttle module problem, they are covered under an extended warranty for 10 years or 200,000 miles. Having that done somewhere else can cost close to a grand. If the dealer finds a problem with the throttle (which is what I'm suspecting), they'll replace it under warranty. BIG savings if that's the issue. The symptoms you're describing are typical of a throttle module failing, losing it's power supply or losing the software. Best to rule the power end of the equation out before having to tow the car.



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