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Daniel T.
Daniel T., Home Appliance Technician
Category: UK Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 14668
Experience:  25+ yrs. experience in white goods repair. NVQ Level 2 electronics manufacturers training courses.
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I have an AEG Santo SN71840-5i, it has been problematic over

Customer Question

I have an AEG Santo SN71840-5i, it has been problematic over the last month or so, it seems to be flicking on and off, when you open the door the power seems to be going on and off every couple of seconds and you can hear it knocking on and off when closed. This morning it stopped completely, all lights out but every once in a while it comes on for a fraction of a second and you can hear the compressor start then it goes off
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: UK Appliance
Expert:  Webb-Guy replied 2 months ago.

Hello and welcome to just answer my name is ***** ***** I will be the one who tries to assist you today.

Do you happen to know how old your appliance is?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi Travis, it's abut 4-5 years old
Expert:  Webb-Guy replied 2 months ago.

Well it could be a multitude of things from the compressor starter to the motor or it could possibly be the motor itself. With it kicking on and off sounds to me like the run capacitor could have went bad.

Do you by chance have an Ohmmeter. It will help determine the diagnosis of the problem if you do. If it Ohm's out when the probes are touching together to the capacitor (meaning goes to zero) that means its good. Of course that can only be done when refrigerator is unplugged. Checking it while plugged in can get you hurt. If you don't have an Ohmmeter I can possibly find where you can purchase one or maybe look up a technician in your area that can help you with this.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I don't think that it's the run capacitor as the unit would still have power to the control panel and light wouldn't it? When it trips off the lights on the control panel and the internal light also go off, if it was the start up capacitor then I would expect the lights and control panel to still be lit. I'll test the resistance and let you know what readings I get though. it's as if the power to the whole unit is being flickered on and off.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I have measured the Ohms across the capacitor, the reading is around 27.5 Ohms when I put the Fluke meter across the terminals of the capacitor...could this be it? would this lead to the unit having no power at all?
Expert:  Webb-Guy replied 2 months ago.

It shouldn't lead to no power at all but since I am unsure of this I am going to open this question up to see if any other experts may have a better idea of what could be going on. Thank you for your continued patience and hopefully someone is along shortly.

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 months ago.


For the fault you have this is a control board fault. Ive seen this fault a lot and ive replaced many boards for this fault as well so it is a fault we see a lot on these AEG models.

Now what you need to do first is remove the control panel. Open both doors and you will see the console panel in the middle, Remove the end covers and you will see a screw either side. Remove this and then you can remove the center console unit and access the board. You need to inspect the board and wiring and make sure theres no condensation in there. As the odd time ive found it gets wet in there and this causes the board to blow. If its all wet in there then im afraid it has an insulation fault and isnt worth fixing. As mositure is getting through the foam insulation and will blow the new board if you replace it again.

But if theres no water in there then great, You need to replace the control board. Now this comes as a kit as you need to rewire it. Now it will come with wiring instructions which tells you how to do it but it will involve cutting wires and resoldering them. But as i said it comes with instructions on how to do this.

So as the fault you have with the power flickering like this and if the power supply is fine then it will be the control board at fault.

If you need anymore info just get back to me.


Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I have removed the control board and suspected this was the issue, I have checked in the housing and the surface of the board and all looks to be dry and moisture free. Hopefully the board will be here tomorrow or Friday.
There is 240VAC to the unit, the capacitor looks fine at 27.5 Ohms, with regards ***** ***** new board, the existing one is all push on multiplugs so I would think this would negate the need for any soldering or cutting of wires.
Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 months ago.

I thought it would be mositure free as its not often we see it but thought i would get you to check first.

The wiring is indeed multi plugs but when you get the new one the wiring blocks have changed so it will come with new multi blocks which you need to rewire.

Now you could be very very lucky and it will be a direct swap so theres no need to alter the wiring but 9 out of 10 needs to be altered.

Ive just uploaded the wiring conversion so you can have a look at it before hand so just click the link below to see it.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Looks like I'm lucky! the control board I have is the ERF2001 so should be a straight swap
Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 months ago.

If you have that board then it should be a direct swap.

I not usually that lucky with these as the ones i do nearly always need converting lol

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