Hi to you from David, 'The Famous Forry' The access is gained by removing 6-10 screws from arond the side of the hob. You may need to access the back side of the hob first and then you will see the screws. Some screws are hidden by small plastic inserts for cosmetic looks, but it is really not to difficult obce you work out your entrance. You must of course ISOLATE from mains ELECTRIC before attempting any repair. Best wishes and a Merry Xmas from David. If you require any more help , please come back to me, I will be here.
Hi David, I can see some screws but their heads point down towards the floor and I can't get at them with a screwdriver because the side panels of the cooker block access to the screws
Have you looked at the rear of the hob. These screws are accessed after removing the sides but there are a couple of screws you need to remove in order to access the side screws.
Yes, I've looked at the rear. I've removed a sort box section with a vent in it that runs along the top rear of the cooker, and cab see the hinges that are atteched to the hob. Do I need to remove the side panels on each side of the cooker to get access to those screws that point down toweards the floor? I've removed the two screws that attach the side panels at the back, but this isn't sufficient to remove them, and it looks like even if they were removed I still couldn't get access to those screws.
Hi again, Yes you will need to get the side panel out of the way to enable access. You should then be able to remove the whole top , or at least wedge up to get access to the elements. Be carefull though when you get to this stage as wires are easilly dislodged.
Hi David, I've taken out the screws holding the side panel at the backof the cooker, but there's still something holding it at the front which I can't figure out, any thoughts?
Does the side band bend out from small retaining clips?? There are several methods that these are held on with and although it seems impossible to remove, there is always a way! It is impossible for me to know every manufactures methods, but you are close to success now and without being there it is difficult to advise further on getting access but can help you more once inside. Just try and work it out and be careful not to dislodge wire once inside. I will be here alll day on and off so will be looking out to see your progress and help you further when required. Best wishes from David.
Hi again David. Yes you were right. The side panels were attached at the front by screws that were hidden by a decorative strip which was clipped on. I've now removed the side panels and the four screws retaining the whole hob to the chassis. It still won't lift on the hinges yet because it is held at the front by a decorative metal strip which overlaps the front of the hob and the control panel where the cooker knobs are. Any suggestions for removing this strip?
Disregard that last message David. I've managed to sort out that strip at the front and now have the hob raised on its hinges, and can see how to access the element. So maybe I'll be OK now. But if not I'll be back in touch if that's allright with you. Thanks for the time being. Nigel.
Well done Nigel, Gave yourself a pat on the back. If you need help sourcing spares let me know regards David. 'The Famous Forry' Please click the ACCEPT tab if your happy with my answers to you. Bonuses are optional but very much appreciated. Best wishes and Christmas greetings to you and your family.
Thanks Dave, but if I could ask you about one last thing: I've got the old element off now, but the new one is a slightly different design switch. Do you know thecolour codes of the wires to the four bayonet connectors (1a, 1b, 2a & 2B)?
have you got the new element there?
Yes, I've got it here
Can you show me via pic of original wiring and then the new element terminals. I do not know off the top of my head how it will be wired but should be able to help with some pictures. Hope this helps, David.
I'm afraid I'm not sufficiently savvy to be able to do pictures, Dave. So I think I'll try connecting the wires to the same bayonets (1a, 1b, 2a, 2b) on the new switch as they were on the old one, even though the position of the bayonets on the new switch is different. Fingers crossed! Nigel.
I would try that anyway. Let me know. BANG!
Pardon my Humour
YES! It works fine. Thanks again for your help Dave
Great well done!
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