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Are you talking about the blue paddle switch behind the lamp door? That has to be jumpered to get the light to light up.
That's the small connector on the ballast I believe. There's a 5 Volt line, ground, ballast strike/run line that when you ground it causes the lamp to go to strike mode, and then a line that verifies if the lamp lit. You're probably activating the strike/run line by grounding it. But there is no kill switch attached to that part, only the door switch could be considered a kill switch. If the blue paddle switch isn't held down constantly the ballast won't fire at all. And the color wheel must get up to full speed before the DMD will even activate the ballast circuitry. Maybe you should take a picture and use our paperclip button to post it on our site here. Use your photo editing software to circle the kill switch you're talking about.
Look at your picture here. Do that and listen to your color wheel, it should spin up to a CONSTANT speed, no variation. THEN the lamp crackles or makes a "Blink" sound if it strikes properly. THEN the lamp should stay lit OR it goes out and the ballast attempts to strike it 2 more times before it gives up and shuts down. Tell me what you experience, ok?