How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Dan Your Own Question
Dan
Dan, Master Tech and Repair Facility Trainer
Category: TV
Satisfied Customers: 7177
Experience:  USAF trained; A.A.S Electronics; A.A.S. Education; Currently teaching advanced troubleshooting and repair for the DoD.
42300671
Type Your TV Question Here...
Dan is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Samsung DLP Model# HL61A750A1FXZA... When it first starts up

Customer Question

Samsung DLP Model# ***** When it first starts up it will take forever to start. I can here it click like it's restarting itself. Then when it does start the picture will be tinted red or blue or green or whatever color. Sometimes I hear sound but have no picture at all. If I shut it of and turn it back on the picture will be correct and I can view it as normal. What can be causing this I want to repair it before it goes out completely.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: TV
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Hello, The cause of this issue is either the LED driver board, or the power supply board- which feeds the LED driver board. In order to test this with certainty, you will need to have prowess using a multi-meter and testing the voltages from the power board to the LED driver. Given that the set is clicking and taking a while to start (this relay is located on the power supply board) the most likely culprit is the power board. If you don't have a multi-meter or the ability to measure voltages, then you will purchase the following boards in order and replace one at a time (sometimes both need replacement) in order to fix the issue:

Power Supply:

Samsung BP44-01001A (IC9B082-VF(A)00600)

Led driver:

Samsung BP94-02327A LED Driver Board

Note that these boards are very hard to find and showing out of stock at all vendors currently. You can try scouring Ebay using those part numbers, or also check periodically with: www.shopjimmy.com or www.tvpartsguy.com

Alternatively a shop will typically charge between $300-$450 parts and labor for this repair and can be located at the following link:

www.tvrepairpros.com

If you need further assistance let me know. Please do not forget to click the 5 STAR RATING, at the top of the page for my efforts. It is my livelihood and you can follow up at any time if needed.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Are you able to see my reply?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have multimeter and am confident testing voltages. Let's narrow this down. Also, why would the power board make the screen show up as just one color. I had someone tell me the DLP chip could be going bad??
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

The power board would click. The LED board would cause one color at a time to show up. If one of the LED chips were bad- it would not show a different color each time.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Remove the back of the set and locate two thick wires (brown and blue) running from the power board to the LED driver board. Disconnect those wires and plug the set in then press power. Does it still click? If so, you need to replace the power board. If not- then replace the LED driver board.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

That was why I was saying there could be two problems, since the clicking commonly occurs at the power board (check for the physical location of the clicking as well), but the LED's only powering up one at a time is usually that the LED board cannot keep up with the current demands of all three LED's at startup (too low voltage, or a weak/failing driver. I hope this makes sense.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

There should be 16 volts DC at the blue and brown thick wires if the power board is good and operating correctly.

If you need further assistance let me know. Please do not forget to click the 5 STAR RATING, at the top of the page for my efforts. It is my livelihood and you can follow up at any time if needed.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The clicking might be leading down the wrong path here, you're the expert. It seems to me like the TV tries to start up with a good picture but when it can't it restarts itself (clicks) and tries again. It will do this up to 3 times and then show a picture. Usually just one color. I can then restart the TV and view a normal picture the rest of the day. Is there something I can test to narrow down the problem? I have a multimeter.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Just saw your reply on the blue and brown wires.. I will check that and get back to you. Thanks
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

You're welcome. And the clicking is very relevant- or I wouldn't have mentioned the test above. Check all of those things and get back to me. Thanks.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Do you need any further assistance with this?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I see three boards. 1 where the power cord goes in then the blue and brown wire go from that all the way to the far right to a much smaller board . I tested it there for DC Voltage at the back of the plug black wire grounded to chassis and the brown wire is reading 159.1 and the blue is -159.0 . Am I doing something wrong here?
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Is your meter set to DC volts? Can you get me the part number of the much smaller board? Was the TV plugged in and turned on?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I just saw all the tests you said. They weren't on here before. Sorry. I will do them all now.
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

No problem. They were all on the page- simply scroll up and/or down to see all replies.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
set to 10 megohm input DCV with the line and 3 dots over the V.. the service was plugged in and turned on. The small board model# *****
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

No to megaohms. You want DC. Not sure what meter you have, but mine is either Ohms (megaohms, etc.), DC or AC.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Okay that small board is the sub power supply. Please post a picture of the TV with the back removed where I can clearly see all board laid out if you can.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It's just saying that particular input is rated at 10 megaohms.. that is the setting for DC V. I am a mechanic and test DC Voltage with this meter frequently. From my research this small board looks like a sub-power supply?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok... I can take a pic.. just a minute
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Yes it is the sub power supply. Thanks, ***** ***** picture.

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Also, could you confirm where that clicking sound was coming from that you heard when the set re-cycled?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry I got called away for a minute. Here are the pics the first is the best overall shot I could get without removing the boards, the second is the powerboard and the third is the sub powerboard. Thanks again for the help
Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

Taking a look now..

Also, can you confirm where that clicking sound was coming from (which board) that you heard when the set re-cycled?

Expert:  Aric replied 1 year ago.

The other ends off the Blue and Brown wires should be heading to the LED driver, are they not?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The blue and brown wires. One comes from the plug into what I assume is the power supply at a plug. They both come out of that plug and run to the small subpower supply and plug in to bottom right corner of it. Then on the other side there is another plug with one black wire and 5 gray wires that runs back behind the board to it looks like that driver board and maybe cooling fans.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have found a picture that might help if you're interested in picking this back up
Expert:  Dan replied 1 year ago.

Different expert here. Do you still need help on this? -Dan