How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Aric Your Own Question
Aric
Aric, Technician
Category: TV
Satisfied Customers: 43009
Experience:  15+ years in the field. Owner of AV Installation, OEM and Repair company
24739752
Type Your TV Question Here...
Aric is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

My Dynex 32" has been working great for years, and the other

This answer was rated:

My Dynex 32" has been working great for years, and the other day while playing a video game, the picture went suddenly dull like almost foggy or like there was a white haze, I could still see the picture and hear the sound fine. I let it sit overnight and tried again and the picture was fine, but then a minute later it very slowly faded white, and the "no signal" box that was bouncing around was like imprinting into the picture as well as the xbox logo when no tried turnig that on. And it just repeats the normal screen then fade to pale white haze again. What's wrong with it? Is it worth getting some over priced repair, trying to fix it myself, or buying a new tv?
Hello and thank you for the question.


Do you have something else- like a DVD player, cable box, VCR, etc. that you can switch over to and see if it has the same problem?


Additionally, is the Xbox connected to the set with an HDMI cable, and if so, have you tried another cable?

Lastly, I'm not asking you to repeat yourself, but rather if you could elaborate on what you're stating here?

"the "no signal" box that was bouncing around was like imprinting into the picture as well as the xbox logo when no tried turnig that on."
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I do not have anything else on the tv, just the xbox. However I switched between inputs not just the hdmi input the xbox was on and it still applied so it's the picture not just the one connection. Also I had been having trouble with the xbox's hdmi cord and it's connectivity, I had to jiggle it around sometimes to make sure the connection stayed strong, I do not know if that might have messed something up internally.

I have not tried any other connections but I assume that it applied to every input selection, and whether the xbox was on or not that it was the picture itself and not because of the xbox.

And what I meant, was when I was on any input there is a little box that says something along the lines of "No Input" or something like that, but that's not important, every input selection, be it hdmi, component, video, tv, etc. when it would be turned on, it was the normal black screen, top right corner displaying the input selection (I.e. Hdmi 1 or component 3) and the box saying "No Signal" because nothing was connected, bouncing around the screen, and then the whole screen slowly faded in and out until it was all white and pale, but that was only a haze because there still was picture, just kind of dulled. I can still play games, watch tv etc. but the picture is dulled whitish.
Does that clarify it?
Thank you for the reply- and yes it does.


So, we know that all of the INPUTS have this problem, but there is one more test we need to try in order to tell how deep the problem goes (keeping in mind there is one specific board that processes the Inputs, then others that produce the overall video). Press MENU on the TV while the problem is occurring and let me know if the TV's internally generated MENU appears perfectly normal and clear OVER the problem, or is also affected by the problem in the same way all of the Inputs are.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Yeah the menu is affected as well, and I have tried restoring the factory settings and that did nothing.
Thanks for the reply Cade. There are honestly three different components that make up the processing for the video, and either of which could cause this problem.

I will try to explain this the best that I can here.


There are several things which could cause your problem. One is the Power Supply, the other is the T-Con (LCD Timing controller), or the LCD panel itself has failed. The only one of these issues that is NOT repairable is a failed LCD panel.


If you're looking to repair the set yourself, the first thing you'd want to do is visually inspect the Power Supply Board for signs of any swollen, or leaking capacitors and replace any that you see which are exhibiting this failure OR replace the Power Supply Board if you don't want to solder.

Next, you would want to use a Multi Meter to measure all of the Power supply Outputs to make sure that none are dropped, or fluctuating (a sagging, or out of spec output rail can cause the problem you're having on your screen).

IF the Power Supply's Outputs are all proper, then the next thing you would move to is to replace the T-Con, this is the processor for the LCD panel and a failing T Con will also cause these problems.


The T Con is a very inexpensive board to replace, (usually around $60), and is not easily tested aside from replacing it to see if it cures the problem. If it does NOT, then your LCD panel itself has failed and is what is causing your problem. This would cost you almost as much as a new TV to replace it and the set would then be considered "Non-repairable".

This is the protocol with which we repair LCD TV's, and without a Meter and the ability to measure live voltages, you can only go so far in terms of being able to isolate the problem and not "guessing" as to which board to replace.


If you don't want to go inside the set measuring voltages, or swapping boards, the bare minimum that this would cost to repair is $200, and can range up to having to replace the LCD panel which is fatal breakdown.

If you need further assistance let me know and please do not forget to rate my service accordingly.

Aric and 3 other TV Specialists are ready to help you