Currently I have the TV in the "net command" mode and because it started memorizing first the analog channels, and now is counting up and memorizing the digital channels, and cannot try what you are suggesting. If possible, I will try your suggestion once this process has stopped.
The TV shut itself off and I tried what you said. The code is "12."
The TV is plugged into a power source of course.
The cable goes from outside to my cable box.
I have an HD wire going from back of cable box to the HDMI 1 source back of TV
I have an audio wire going from the TV to a Home Theatre Receiver.
Nothing else is plugged into the TV.
I have a PA PR150BNM cable box from Xfinity. By the way I plugged the cable box into a different TV last night and the picture worked immediately.
I do not have an input button, I have a device button. Normally this is how we switch from TV, to DVD, for example. Right now sometimes I see "antenna" come up on the TV in the upper left screen. When I hit device, nothing happens, either from the remote, or from the TV. None of the buttons on the TV respond except for what you told me to do to get the "12" code.
I understand that I want to use the Device button to get to HDMI. Currently both the Device button on the remote, and on the TV do not respond. I cannot see the device area that I have seen in the past.
If it helps, Steve, the previous tech had me hold two buttons and the "code" that resulted was 12. Maybe 12 means something to you. He said that the TV is not getting a signal which is why it keeps shutting itself off.
I know the cable box works because I tried a different TV last night with it and it worked perfectly.
All I see when TV is powered is static.
Both on the TV, and/or on the remote none of the usual buttons work. The only thing I have been able to see is the "Net Command" area where different things can be programmed. Then the picture looks normal with a blue screen background. Once that is gone, back to static without buttons working.
The TV is older, but when working has a great picture. Not sure if it would be worth it to hire someone to look at it, and it weighs a lot, so difficult to move.
Ok. I followed your steps. When I plugged the TV back in the timer button was blinking. I waited for the green light to stop blinking, then turned on the TV. I still see static, and none of the buttons on the TV, including the Device button do anything.
Unfortunately, the Mainboard, or the Power Supply output to the Mainboard on your set has failed. They work in tandem to allow the set to turn on, the Power Supply provides the voltages to various circuits in the TV, and the Mainboard contains much of the communication required for the Power Supply to turn on.
The power supply is the board that the AC cord connects to inside the TV. Often times, one or more capacitors on this board fail, and will give you these symptoms.
The Mainboard is the board directly mounted to the rear panel of the set, that routes and processes all of the AV signals to the TV. This is a common mode of failure for these sets. Average cost or this type of repair is around $350 parts and labor. There is no reset or series of buttons you can press to fix this problem, and the set will require service. I would personally consider carefully whether or not to put that kind of money into this set, as a new TV can be had for around the same cost as repairing this one.
However, if you'd like you can use the link below to locate a tech in your area:
If you need further assistance let me know and please do not forget to rate my service before logging off.
How certain are you that I need a mainboard? Could I purchase a main board and install it myself, or would that be dangerous? I would agree that the cost would not make sense if that is the problem.
It seems odd that Comcast shut off our service because of a misunderstanding. When they turned it back on the TV worked for 1 day, yesterday, and then last night all I could get is the static I have been reporting.
If you are pretty certain, that this is my problem, I will probably purchase a new TV. If a tech determines that a few more simple fixes could solve my problem, I would love to not replace the TV.
How much do I pay for your answer?
OK, a question because I have already tried the reset button. You said the Mainboard is about $300 parts and labor. If the problem is the power supply as opposed to the main board, is that any cheaper?