TV Repair Questions? Ask a TV Technician for Answers ASAP
Just used Google and saw that someone had a similar problem. I don't had any trouble shooting manuals and I didn't want to get one since apparently some are wrong.
Thanks for the reply.
Based on what you've stated here, you may have a faulty SC (which is most likely). You could also have a faulty SU, or SD, in the set as well.
None of the troubleshooting manuals are actually "wrong", it's just that there's always the chance something unforseen can also cause a problem.
Here's what we've got for both 6 and 7 blink codes for these sets:
6 Blinks SOS: Pin 65 of the CPU IC9003 monitors the status of the SC board. During normal operation, a low is applied to pin 65. If the SC board becomes defective, a high is provided to pin 65. As a result, the unit shuts down and the power LED blinks 6 times.
7 Blinks SOS: Pin 68 of the CPU IC9003 monitors the status of the SC, SU, SD board. During normal operation, a low is applied to pin 68. If the SC, SU, or SD board becomes defective, a high is provided to pin 68. As a result, the unit shuts down and the power LED blinks 7 times.
The link to the troubleshooting guide and flowchart is below for your set. Slide 50 is where you'd begin:
So I read through the entire guide you just gave me, and it was a little tough to follow it. Now I didn't really quite understand how to know if the SD and SU boards are ok. They didn't really explain much on that in the manual.
Hello, I'm TV Tech1 and I'll be working with you to identify and help you resolve your problem.
Do you see the SC 50 plug on the SC board? You're supposed to jumper those pins on SC50, then disconnect the SU and SD boards. Then turn the TV on and still see if you get a 6 or 7 blink code. Check page 51 of 77 listed in your PDF reader, it shows what SC50's purpose is.
When I did that the blink code went from 7 down to 6 blinks. With the SC board disconnected entirely I have 6 blinks. Or am I suppose to keep the ribbon attached and the SC 2 plugged in?
Darn, I was going to ADD this to my posting, but you've read it already. Check the picture, to me it's important not to Run tests on the TV set consistently, but to run a couple tests, let the TV rest /cool down, then run additional tests as needed.
You're supposed to keep all connectors connected to the SC board during any testing unless told to disconnect them.
Ok I am not sure if I am understanding SC 50 correctly.
are they the pins that connect the SC and SD board or is it that thing plugged in that loops on itself? Because I am missing that part on my board. Check out the picture I just took of that part on the board. And I have learned as well to always let a tv sit for 10 minutes minimum before plugging things back in.
So every time I try to insert a picture and I hit reply it goes to a bad page and says that I don't have access to the server. but as soon as I try again without the image it works. I tried the image 3 times btw. Am I doing something wrong?
Yeah, that's been an issue with Just Answer for the last week. Go to the top of your page, see if there is a MY ACCOUNT link. If there is one, you may want to LOG OFF, then LOG ON again.
Also, today, I've been having to Add pictures 3 times before the graphic box with the x in the corner actually displays the actual picture I'm adding to the text box.
If that does not work for you, I fall back on Imgur.com and simply download the picture there, then copy and paste the hyperlink into the text box and then hit enter to make it turn blue --
That took twice to get it to appear.....
That was just a quick download from my computer there.
Ok so about the SC50 though, do you think this might be the issue? I bought this tv none working from someone and it is possible that they had taken out the loopy connector thing no? Or is SC50 the pins that connect the SC board to the SD board?
SC50 allows the SC board to run without the SU and SD boards attached to it. If the SC board is bad, it will generate a fail code. If it runs with no fail codes the SC board is good and it tells you the SU/SD board is where the problem is.
That is it's purpose.
Ok so if the loopy connector is not there, that means the other option would be to check the voltage that should come out of the now uncovered pins right?Is there a way to know if the SC board is bad without that loopy connector?
Does this make sense?
Loopy connector...you mean the SC 50 connection, correct?
Follow this pictorial diagram to set up your SC board for testing --
I missed one of the black plugs near the top of the picture, disconnect that too.
The jumper wire is what I am referencing when I talk about the loopy connector. And I did disconnect everything like on the diagram including the unmarked on on the diagram, and it went from 7 to 6 blinks. Now does this mean that it is for sure the SC board?
Ok, with the 7 blink disabled, it does look like the SC board is the cause. But let's do a little more investigation on the SC board and see if the SS board may be affecting it. I doubt it as the SS board rarely fails compared to the SC board.
But there's two things we need to check. Is the GREEN LED on the SC board lighting up with it turned on? Is there 15 Volts coming from the Power supply and supplying 15 Volts to the SC board?
See picture for information --
When I do this am I plugging everything back in the way it should be or leaving the SD and SU board disconnected.
Just leave it connected the way it was in the last test. I hope you have a voltmeter to verify the 15 volt line, but if not, I suspect the ability to switch fail codes verifies it's presence on the SC board. The green light is the one I am interested in. Plus, with it fully connected, I am wondering if you ever saw the green light on the SC board.
I do have a voltmeter, but I am not home anymore. I will be back in about 1 hour, and which point I will do the test and let you know of my result. I don't remember ever seeing a green light, but I was not really looking for one, so I might just have missed it.
My fear is the LED burned out everytime I don't see it light up....you have to think that way before you assume the SC board is bad.
Can you tell me specifically where I put the needles from the voltmeter in order to get that 15 volt reading. I thought it was on the right of the conector that connects the power supply to the SC board but I got a reading off the charts. I just want to make sure I am reading the right thing.
Black probe is ground. The best ground point is the body of the plasma panel itself, or any piece of metal in contact with the metal on on the back of the plasma panel. Other than that....the outer ring on any of the RCA jack is ground too.
Then the RED probe is the one you use to measure ALL plugs for DC voltage.
If you look at the picture of the plugs I showed you where to measure....you'll see the numbers on the plugs, and notice the 15 is one one side and 3.3 is on the other end of the number scale. Usually the number one wire is the ODD color out of all the other colors. Black in a whole bunch of gray....sounds odd doesn't it.
Well the Image stopped appearing, so I can't pull it up anymore. But its ok because I just ended up sending the board to someone that said they would check it to see if it was working properly for free except shipping costs. So we will see what they say and proceed from there.
Ok, let's see what that company finds out. We'll get together at that time.
Ok sorry it took so long to get back to you but the board was the issue and they sent a replacement one. I just got it yesterday and I plugged it in. Now when I did this the TV had not been connected to the electricity for at least 2 hours. But when I tried plugging all the connectors a couple sparks appeared which in my book is never a good thing. However the board works perfectly fine and the TV works very well now. Audio and video are good. If you could just tell me how there was still electricity and what I could have done or should have done I would appreciate it. Thank you for the help!
Well, your power supply board can hold a charge on it's VERY LARGE capacitors, so when you plug the board in, you do get a little spark at the connectors. That's normal but it spooks me too when it happens. But that's ok....I've never had to come back on those that spark.
If you want to discharge the power supply in the future....the BEST way with LITTLE COST is to grab an incadescent lamp. Take the prongs on the plug. Jumper one to the body ground, and the other to the higher voltages (like the VS and VA plugs on your TV)
and let it sit connected for about 10 minutes. That would drain the power supply board.
Overall, I've never worried about that, Panasonic would have told us to discharge the board if they deemed it necessary.
I take it we've got a TV set running perfectly fine now. If so, great. If you would, I'd appreciate it if you would give me a high rating on the scale here.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX it.