Check your TV set with a DVD player and it's HDMI. Let's see if that unit has the HDCP not supported display pop up on you.
Next thing to test --
Unplug the power cord on the Uverse, the TV and the DVD player too.
Unplug the HDMI cables from the TV set.
Wait 5 minutes, plug ONLY the power cords back in, turn on ALL the units.
Wait one more minute, then plug the HDMI cables back in.
That resets the TVs HDMI.
See if you still get the HDCP not supported display.
Let me know if it does.
Could not work in Hi Def? I find that statement interesting.
So you could only RUN the DVD player in 480 resolution, and the MOMENT you attempted to set the DVD player to 720P or 1080i, the picture went black and the TV said it couldn't handle those type of signals?
You were using the 5 wire component cables to connect your DVD player to the TV set, correct?
You weren't using the 3 wire Yellow Red White cabling were you?
That cable won't deliver 720 or 1080 no matter how hard you try.
Only Component cables can deliver it, along with HDMI cables.
Heh, you SOUND like you WANT an new TV set !
Do you? I mean at worst it's a bad scaler on your TV set, and they run around $200 roughly....but a NEW TV with all the NEW features.....that'll run around $1500 for a decent one that won't make you wish for another new TV a couple years down the road.
If you're anything like me, you want your TV to last and last.
Well, the easiest workaround is to avoid connecting the TV set up with HDMI.
H1001 HDCP Not supported on this display only appears on the TV because the Uverse box thinks the TV set isn't a TV set.
So it blocks the picture to make sure a recorder isn't recording using the HDMI cable.
And if your DVD player connected using component cables --
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Worked but not with a High Definition signal, then the way to fix BOTH problems is to replace the TV's main board.
However, there's a large list of main boards, because the VW32L model has an HDTV10 A an HDTV20A, an HDTV30 A and an HDTV40 A submodel to it.
And it has a very long list of main boards for each sub model.
So, what we will need to do is to get the TV laid down on a padded table, and remove the screws in the TV's rear cover and TV stand, to get the rear cover off of the TV set. Then we can look at the board and get the code number off of it.
Price wise, I'm looking at $70 on one main board, and the highest priced board is $152.
But it will fix BOTH problems.
Can you get the TV's rear cover off? It's just a bunch of philips head screws holding the back cover on the TV set.
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Yeah, HDMI is better than Component.....but Component Never locks up on you either.
Real World Test -- I checked 1080 on an HDMI and Component video signal. The only difference I saw was 7 Veins on a leaf versus 6 veins on the same leaf. I don't watch leafs on TV....I watch the Whole show. I run my TV on Component with the Cable signal, and save the HDMI for my Blu Ray where it really counts.
So, my attitude towards HDMI is that it's better and MORE reliable on Blu Ray players over these cable boxes that like to lock up all the time and blank the picture right in the most important part of the TV show. Can't trust them, especially if they are built by Motorola. Had 3 of them go bad in my own home.
Well, let's get a list of the main boards first --
And we'll use this site which crosses the main board with the TV's serial number to reduce the possible boards used in your TV model
My recommendation is to start with the 2nd site, isolate it down with the VW32LHDTV 20 / 30 / 40 sub-model, then break it down to the serial number to get the correct part.
It's a process of elimination, so the more detail we have on your TV's model number, the less choices we have to choose.
If you need assistance, reply back to me with the model and serial number. The one sticker on the back of your TV set will have the VW32L at the top, but further down you should find the full model number and the serial number listed in finer print on the sticker.