I have a 42in. plasma samsung from 8-04. the picture no longer come's on. I still have sound, but I cann't seem to change the sourse button, nor can I change channels.
Ihave tested the three fuse's. I also tried just holding the sourse button down. there are still many fuse's, two different styles, I have not checked
Have you tried isolating the voltages and the boards yet? Fuses are just the tip of the iceberg, and it's easier to see if your power supply puts out the 200 Volts DC to the boards, and if the green blinking light is seen after power on -- not on the front of the TV, but the one in the back.
I have not tried to isolating the boards. there is a green lite that flashies in the back all the time the power is on. model name on board reads B4K-50 Rev 1.2 (2002.12.14) there are 3 heat sinks reading right to left HS1 HS2 HS3 , on the right side of hs1 is a HI POT then another one between HS1 and HS2. Know HS1 is cool to the touch where HS2 is hot HS3 very little warmth. power come's in lower right corner of this board. this board is connected to the last board on right. ( I think it is the power for the screen ) There are 8 HS's on this board and they are all cold.
I'm getting two models -- Samsung as you stated, and Philips. When your look at your boards, do any of them have the Samsung name printed on it?
It's strange to see two brands using the same exact model.
The three larger boards all have SamSung, on the back panel is AKAI Plasma Display Model PDP 4294, type AX42P3.
Ok here is a Series of tests that you need to run....STEP BY STEP.
What we are doing is this....Disconnecting the BAD board(s). Seeing if the power supply STAYS ALIVE...then reconnecting the boards one at a time to ISOLATE the problem. The TV should stay alive if the BAD board is disconnected.
Run these step by step --
Answer the Y/N questions (at least to yourself) Let me know which board makes the TV shutdown/turn off. That's the board we need to replace.
And no, Samsung does not provide parts to trouble shoot it down to a transistor or resistor.
The TV stayed on through each test. I found no pinholes in the IC's . I assume that to mean I am going to need to replace both the boards with the IC's on them?
No, we won't be replacing them. We will double check our symptoms and compare it to your findings.
You had the 180-200 Volts DC coming out of your Power supply?
TV stayed on with the Yellow and Blue connectors disconnected?
TV stayed on with ALL connectors connected?
a Did you see the Menu or Volume bar
b Do you see the plasma panel glow a subtle gray?
Yes the TV stayed on while boards where disconnected. there was not even a flicker from the screen.
Ok, I think you missed this part of the question, so reconnect the connectors, set the TV up so you can see the screen then --
TV stayed on with ALL connectors connected? Yes/ No
a Did you see the Menu or Volume bar Yes/No
b Do you see the plasma panel glow a subtle gray? Yes/ No
I reconnected all points and yes it stayed on and I at no time screen do anything. Again I would like to point out, if you look at the picture I sent. On the power board you see the one with 42 on it? That one gets real warm, there is a very slite notice of temp change. None of the others show any change.
Real warm heatsinks don't scare me....Hot ones do. Painfully hot ones. The cooler ones aren't a concern, not all of them warm up as fast as others do.
Ok, if the TV STAYS turned on with All of the connectors connected, we don't have a shutdown issue. What we need to do is first see if the plasma panel --
Lights up, then goes out.
Stays lit a subtle gray light level.
Menu does or does not appear on a subtle gray /slightly lit screen.
I generally recommend the Screen be looked at in a dark or dim room so you can see if it's black or gently lighting up after the power button is pushed.
the screen does not lite at anytime that Ican tell. The menu does not come on. when I first hooked up the dvd you could hear sound, changeing ch. had no effect. before you watched it on line or one of the sources.
Ok, if it never lights up the Ysus is bad.
As long as you read 180 Volts DC on Step #1 of the test I gave you, you have power. You probably measured some other voltages too, like a 60 to 80 volt line
I think you should re-read what was sent to me, some of it is cut off mid sentence. I never tested the power supply. The tv stayed on for each test. If you send me the test again I will test it. I did use a dark room to look at the screen again, there may of been some flickering and a ever so slite lighting on the sides of the screen but I can not say for sure it could of just been me.
Ok, with the information you just sent me.
A TV set that can be powered on and stays on /doesn't turn itself off, is a TV that isn't shorted.
It could be missing voltages. Do you have a voltmeter you can test DC voltages with?
As for the panel lighting...it goes from pitch black to a subtle gray, in a dimly lit room. It may light only for a split second, or minutes, or never. Those are the choices.
yes, do I test the 2 connections the( yellow and blue) with both disconnected?
I don't know....
You never answered my questions. We went thru this test procedure once and I can't seem to find the responses listed in the picture. Of course it's 1 AM and Maybe it's better to simply RE-RUN the Tests listed, Have you type out the question and the Answer number by number, so we have a REFERENCE that's easy to find in all of our conversations.
So, answer Yes /No,
I picked those pieces out...because they look important.
So what happened here? Did we have a plan of analysis and did we step by step thru it, and did we answer the questions asked ? Y/N.
For some reason I think you have a working plasm panel that lights up and stays lit -- Y/N
ok from the pic of my tv i ran the tests 1-4 yellow- blue disconnected, yes tv stays on. reconnected blue one, yes it stayed on. disconnected board connections in green box and reconnected yellow plug, yes the tv stayed on. visually inspeced the ics in the red box under bright lite, found no pin holes. in a dark room i turned the tv on i think i see a faint border around tv, i do not see menu nor do i see volume bar. i maybe see some change in the screen like pic from a different channel tring to come through. as for the voltage check, i tested both yellow and blue connector. i found no 180v on none of them. start with yellow connection 10 total contact points includeing black, black is 1 it went up to 31 then down to 7 then back up over and over again,2 34 down to 7 as 1 did, 3 0, 4 0, 5 92 6 0, 7 77, 8 0, 9 14, 10 5, the board shows 3,4,6,8 to be grounds 5 is vset, 7 is vscan, 9 vg, 10 d5v. blue connection, the black is on the bottom with 9 total connection including black. starting with black as 9 25, 8 25, 7 0, 6 0, 5 111, 4 0, 3 0, 2 14/15, 1 5. 3,4,6,7 are marked ground or rtn 1 vdd, 2 vcc, 5 ve, 8 and 9 both marked vs. Hope i made sence to you
I do not understand why the responce I got from you was ( sorry we were unable to answer your question) I ran the test you sent me with the pic of my TV. I put down the readings and said I found no 180v the highest was 111v. I had hopes of you telling me where to go from here. I think I am missing the power to run the plasm screen. so that is it?
Sense I am not happy with the out come. Am I stell being charged?
Um, your RESPONSE JUST POPPED UP IN MY ANSWER LIST....right now. Anything you experienced ....automated responses. Not from me.
You have enough voltages to make the plasma panel light up. Power supply is functional.
in a dark room i turned the tv on i think i see a faint border around tv, i do not see menu nor do i see volume bar
If it stays lit.....if the whole pane has a faint light coming off of it...and the TV stays lit.....then the plasma panel is lighting up.
If it's pitch black....we have a Dead YSUS.
If it lights up and goes black ....the panel is bad.
I need you to describe what you see with your eyes when the power button is pushed.
It never lights -- it lights up and goes black -- it stays lit a subtle lit level over the entire screen.
When I turn the TV on It's not like the screen lites up, but it does seem to be not so black and there are like flashes of more lite. I steal can not see menu or volume bar. did you not ask me if I had 180v at the power? The highest reading I got from the yellow connector, the one connecting power to the YSUS board was 92v on the 5th pin marked as VSET on the board. Where was I to find 180v? when I say the screen does not lite up, I mean to say it slowly seems to get liter and it stays that way except when I change channels or the flashes that seem mostly to be in the center area. I am inside with all the lights off when I turn it on.
You know...a primed panel (working panel) is just a STEP ABOVE Black....in fact it's viewable on Stormy days, and the dark of night....tossing a quilt over your head in a sunshiney room is a necessity to see the plasma panel PRIME...and that's what we call it.
The WHOLE black panel, primes a subtle gray...the phosphors energize.
And the VS voltages....the power board is CLEARLY marked VS on the board!
VS voltage -- supposed to be 180, but you do have one of the OLDER TVs...they started with some goofy voltages floating around 80 or 95 due to Fred Flintstone technology back then.
VA Voltage -- Read it.
Vset -- Read it too...
If you're GETTING the Voltages....then your panel should ALSO be PRIMING.
the picture no longer come's on. I still have sound, but I cann't seem to change the sourse button, nor can I change channels.
Power up the TV....see if the panel PRIMES and stays primed....see if the voltages on the power supply board stay turned on, or if some are missing.
I tested the VA spot on the board it read 78v, The VSET was another thing it only read 1v, I tried it three times it didn't change. The other day when I tested it on the yellow connector unhooked from the VSUS board it read 92v. Whats up with that? I hit all the test points I could find on the power board these are the readings, VSCAN- 77v / VA- 78v / VG- 14v / VSET- 1v / VS- 8v / VS- 5v / D5V- 5v . They all seemed to stay on as long as the power was on. Will it live again ?
Your Ysus is bad.
Vset changing voltages...you have a short on the Vset line to your Ysus board.
There's a Philips and a Samsung board used in your model. Probably for Plasma Panel's branding.
Look at the picture, magnify it, look at the numbers on the board (LJ -xxxxx) look at the Brand on the board.
Replace it with the CORRECT board listed here --
Vset ONLY goes to the Ymain board and it drives the Ydriver board.
It will live again, as you stated.
30 Years experience. Authorized Warranty servicer.
OK, Thank you for all of your help. I only have one more thing, the board is a SamSung am I looking for the Model no, PCB code, REV no ? There is a LJ41-02142A , thats the PCB code. There is also a PBA code that is different LJ92-00999A . In my pic the black box you are pointing at as the YSUS board has a different # XXXXX . What one do I want or are these even the ones? I am going to push the ACCEPT button. I hope you will still answer my ouestion, I realy do thank you for your help it though me somethings. I have another TV maybe we will talk again soon.
I do not know if you will get this or not, but I contacted that site you sent me and was able to get the right board and it was only $79. Again thanks for your help. Until the next time, take care and always be smart.
Thanks I appreciate that. The 2nd response caused it to show up.
I changed the Y-SUS board and the dam thing still does not have a picture, and know I have no sound. That or I am not able to get to the right input point, it was playing sound on all channels and input points. I assume this because I can not tell if I am changeing anything when I push buttons. Do I need a new just ask purches?
The VSET was another thing it only read 1v, I tried it three times it didn't change
I could find on the power board these are the readings, VSCAN- 77v / VA- 78v / VG- 14v / VSET- 1v
Disconnect the Blue and Yellow plugs first --
Measure the Vset voltage on the power board and see if it's sitting at 1 Volt. If so, the power supply got damaged too. It's supplying the Vset to the Ysus.
I tested the Vset voltage on the power board with the blue and yellow connections unhooked. The voltage this time was 92v. I also ran the test of all the test points and they are still the same as last test. Where do we go from here?
Well, something is STILL pulling the Vset down...we know that. We replaced the....
Ysus board. We didn't replace the Zsus or the Ydrive on the Ysus.
I think I'd Plug the Zsus back in....and see if the Vset is 92 Volts or 0 Volts.
OK I pluged the blue board, Zsus board in the Ysus board still unpluged. The voltage was 0. Will I be replaceing that one to?
Yeah, it does sound like your Zsus is shorted, since the voltage dropped from 92 Volts to 0 Volts when you plugged the blue plug back in
with the blue unhooked and yellow one pluged in the voltage is 1v
Hmm, I don't like the sound of that.
I changed the Y-SUS board and the dam thing still does not have a picture
You have a power supply board that has good Vset voltage on it when BOTH boards are disconnected, correct?
And you replaced the Ysus, and it blew a 2nd time.
You also have a Zsus board that is blown.
That's bad news, because that means your plasma panel is killing both the Ysus and Zsus board.
Unfortunately, that plasma panel is well beyond the cost of a new TV set. It really makes no sense to replace that part.
Yes the power board reads 92v when both Z and Ysus boards are unhooked. Could it be that the power board is just weak and not able to hold the voltage under a load?
You can run the light bulb test....
Take a 40 Watt light bulb. Go to the hardware store, pick up 2 small alligator clips, about 2 to 3 feet of lamp cord and one Lamp socket. Wire the Lamp socket with the wire, and on the other end of the lamp cord, install the two alligator clips.
Connect ONE alligator clip to the metal body or to a GND wire on one of the plugs.
Remove the connectors on the Zsus / Ysus completely. Now, connect the other alligator clip to your VSET. Turn it on and see if the light glows or not.
It should....it's only pulling 1/4 of an amp or 40 watts roughly.
Turn it off and try a 60 Watter...if it can handle both it good. If it can even handle just the 40 Watter, it's good enough for me.
I'm heading to bed. It's late here. I've got toothpicks in my eyes trying to keep them open.
OK I will conceed to the fact that the screen is blown.I was realy hopening to watch that one again. Can you help with another one? It,s a Toshiba 32 in. I beleave model 32A14 built dec.2004. It shut off while I was watching it and will not come back on. I took the back off and when you turn it on it is only on for maybe a second. It turns the lite on that is on the board then it,s off. When it first happened I thought there maybe something getting to hot, but it didn,t turn back on after it had time to cool off. Can you help?
I'm not finding schematics in my list of Toshiba manuals, and this is the part I don't like seeing --
The Big suppliers don't list any parts. If you don't have parts, how can you fix it?
Well that sucks. I did go back and check again and that is the number they show as the model and ser # XXXXX I did not stop there, on the back where the mod# XXXXX there are two more numbers as follows, Chassis M3N528, and then this one under the bar code 1208B2777 G. From the what we'll call the main board I got these, this group where togeather, NTSC, MICON (was in a box),TMC559D. Then on a paper label was 619401268643MA A. Do any of these help? These two TVs where my best ones I would like to get one fixed. Well you are about to hit the sack, your on the east coast? what there is 3 hours differents. It,s 7:40 here it must be 20 to 11. Make one of these numbers work for us. Thanks
I responded to your saying no listing for that model and gave you some more numbers. Did you get that? Let me know please.
Your response just came up on my list. Didn't see the previous one, but it did post.
I went looking for suppliers again.
It should have shown up on that site.
Here are some pictures they may help. These are all the # XXXXX could find both in and outside the TV. These are from the back Chassis M3N528, then under the made date, 619401268643 MA A. These came from the main board hell the only board NTSC,right under that in a box,Micon,Followed by TMC 559D. Now this number came from a paper label in the lower right corner 619401268643 MA A. this TV is not HD, nor plasma, it just has what looks like your reg picture tube. It does have cooler stream, but I don't even know what that is. Sorry it took so long to get back to I am on call all this week joy joy. :) But I do hope this helps.
You didn't wait for the filename to appear in the box before pressing OK or the Insert buttons
The first picture is always the slowest to load.
Color Stream...Toshiba lables their Component input jacks Color Stream. It's just a name to sell stuff.
I used to have a joke between Techs years ago....
"That TV hasn't been fixed, it's been Damonized"
Old classic "Martinized" Dry Cleaning Logo we saw on our dry cleaning....converted for TV repair.
OK mister I am trying this again, I am not very computer smart. I guess if I was I could type with more then two fingers. I hope the pictures make it. Did you get the rest of the numbers I took off the board and back of the TV?
You see the two yellow boxes on the right side where the picture.jpg filename is XXXXX XXXXX appear?
Follow the instructions, but don't press the OK or the Insert buttons until you see the name of the file appear in the Yellow box. Usually there's a 45 second pause before the name appears in the box because the computer is actually downloading the file, so it doesn't appear until it's done downloading the JPG file.
No name....no pushy button.
one more time
Ah...it worked. Good job. Now you know what I have to do on a daily basis.
Did you Death-Click the first box while yelling "C'mon!....Come ON! Take the dang picture!"
The first one is always the slowest....
This is what you do --
Just finished Death-clicking that picture back to you.
If you're repairing those TV's for profit...or even for your own personal use, those are rules I apply to CRT TV sets like that. Projection is essentially the same, but parts are kind of available on them. On yours...that's all there is parts-wise.
Thanks alot mister as always you where great. I do have one more ? How do I masure trans and what should it be? Can I just get a new board? OK that was two. I do not do this for profit they are my own I am just cheep. :)
How do I masure trans
Boards aren't available for those TVs anymore unfortunately.