1] Viewsonic N3200w LCD TV has gone very dim on the upper half of the screen.2]Momentarily, when the screen is just turned on, the upper half illuminates briefly before going dim3] The upper half appears to be dimly lit by light leaking from below.4] My guess is that the light I see is coming from fluorescent tubes, through the imaging screen controlled by the computer's display card. My further guess is that one or more of the back-lighting fluorescent tubes is on its way out and in need of replacement.5] I would like to purchase replacement tube[s] and, if possible, install them myself.6] If this is not possible I would like a firm estimate of how much I should expect to pay for a repair, and how I can get this repair in my area zip=02458. 7] Now that I understand this service better, I am able to give further detail:8] I am confident of my ability to remove the power cord and other connections, then a] disconnect and dismount the two speakers b] remove the 14 Phillips head screws that appear to hold the screen and the shallow rectangular case behind it together. c] I would separate the two carefully, expecting a flexible ribbon connector of some sort between the two. d] I presume that doing so will reveal an array of fluorescent tubes [how many?] and that replacing the upper one or two tubes will not be any more difficult than replacing any other fluorescent tube[s] e] If this solves the problem, after reassembling and reconnecting the screen, I'm done. If this does not solve the problem, I shall probably not pursue it further and junk the screen. Replacement of the identical model now costs 1/3 what I paid for it 5 years ago, but I am willing to expend some time and money to keep it out of the land-fill.I AM WILLING TO PAY $25/$50 FOR THE FOLLOWING:0] Advice that I have/have not correctly discerned what is wrong and how to fix it. (I'll cheerfully pay $25 to be told that the symptoms I describe require a much more complex diagnosis/repair and advice to junk the device.)If I have correctly foreseen the cause and cure of the symptoms, I'll cheerfully pay $50 for the following:1] Specific URLs of at least one trustworthy online vendor for the fluorescent tube[s]2] Specific ordering information to be used to order the tube[s] for this MFR+model #3] Any pitfalls I can avoid in performing the disassembly, repair, and reassembly.
Hi and welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX have been repairing TV's Professionally for over 7+ years and currently own a Shop in FL.
If the light comes on briefly during power up then turns off, I dont think the Bulb is at fault. This sounds more like the Inverter is on it's way out and should be replaced before attempting a replacement on the CCFL Backlight Bulbs in the Panel. A replacement Inverter is only $54.16 with a 180 day money back warranty from here: http://www.shopjimmy.com/auo-19-26006-095-backlight-inverter.htm. Make sure that 19.26006.095 is the correct Part Number on your Inverter Board. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Thanks,
XXXXX XXXXXndsey
Dear XXXXX XXXXXndsey,Thank you for this response. I am not confident of my ability to identify the "inverter board" or the part you have named without further guidance.I am at a loss to know how to proceed without feeling misled and entrapped, not by you, but by the design of the site.It appears that I do not have the option to pay less than $48 for the "Exit now" advice and do not want to harm your on-line reputation by rejecting your answer, so as to not be charged. Your thoughts?Respectfully,Jonathan
Hey Jonathan. After I provide an answer, you can always reply back if you need further info. That's not a problem. When you remove the back of the TV Panel off, you'll see the Inverter Board located on the Left and should look like this:
Removing it only requires a few screws to be removed and the plugs attached to it. Insert the replacement Board, put in the screws, put the plugs back into the new Board, and place the back panel back on. Turn on the TV and all should be well again. If you have any questions days from now after pressing accept, you can always post back here for help. Our thread is never closed.
Thank you. This works for me, and I am both sufficiently informed to feel able to make the repair, and reassured that there will be no stream of demands for further payment to complete it.I'll hit "Accept Answer" once I get your reply, which need not be long-winded.
The payment that you made is the only payment you'll be charged my friend. If anything pops up asking you for anything more, just ignore it. Feel free to let me know if you run into any problems. I'm here from the beginning to the end.
Dear XXXX L,The circuit board you specified arrived today from ShopJimmy.com.Getting to the inverter in this model meant peeling back many more layers than I had anticipated. I would have appreciated a better picture of what I should expect. Without correction, you allowed to stand my stated expectation that merely removing the back would bring the circuit board into view. I believe I have not done any damage removing many very stiff connectors, as well as an elegant ribbon connector of a design I have never seen before.When I finally exposed the inverter, the model you specified turned out to be incorrect. It is apparently an 8-port inverter board but with the wrong dimensions, the wrong connectors, and lacking a substantial number of connections of the inverter[s] in the display. What is in the display appears to be two identical four-output inverter boards end to end, measuring together 15-5/8 x 4.Recall that the original symptom was the top half of the screen going dim. It would appear that in the model I have, the upper and lower halves are served by identical dedicated inverters.The serial number of my unit is PAL051000946 and according to the embossing in the frame was manufactured 18 Feb 2005.I shall return the board to ShopJimmy.com tomorrow. I presume that you are a "certified electronics technician," in their accounts, and shall appreciate your assistance with ShopJimmy in getting a FULL credit [rather than 80%] toward the correct inverter board[s].This has been interesting, challenging, and frustrating.Respectfully,Jonathan Shay
Jonathan, if you recall my previous post I had said "Make sure that 19.26006.095 is the correct Part Number on your Inverter Board." This will prevent wrong orders.
Dear XXXX L,Yes, I recalled that post when I reviewed the traffic, and recall thinking at the time, "How in the hell do I do that?" I guess I have my answer. I looked at the inverter boards before me and see many different codes and numbers, and am clueless about which of them would be the right one to communicate to ShopJimmy to send as the replacement. I find the following identical numbers on the two inverter boards:INV32-G001APCB43020BP/N: 3BD0024410RU SS-:94V0 4804There are also paper stickers which I take to be test/inspection stickers: FS4A 2540 4900What, exactly, do I tell ShopJimmy to send in replacement?Respectfully,Jonathan Shay
Is this the board that you received? If so, the Board Numbers that you need to look at are here:
Attachments are only available to registered users.
This was marked as being the only board for this TV. Let me know what you find.
The board I received was exactly the one in the picture. I have given you the mfr. the model, the serial # XXX the mfr date of the TV, as well as all the visible numbers on the twin original boards still in the TV. I presume there is not yet another layer [I cannot see any further screws to remove] that has the board in your picture.Is your source of info from ShopJimmy or from the mfr, that this is "the only board for this TV"?
Take a picture of your Inverter and upload here using the little paper clip icon. If you have problems uploading it, you can email it to experts@pearl.com. That source was not from Shop Jimmy. I always use the Manufacture for reference.
THREE PHOTOS ON THEIR WAY VIA EMAIL [I CAN FIND NO PAPER CLIP ICON ON MY SCREEN NOW] TO experts@ pearl.com subject line: "FOR CARL L/TV -- 3 iPhotos OF INVERTER BOARDS"
Thanks, I'll let you know when they forward them to me.
From what I see, it looks like the Manufacture simply upgraded the Board and did away with one of the duplicate Power Cables. The two Boards should be the same size and will use 1 Power Cord and 1 Data. Use the two circled below:
Electronically, what you are saying may be just fine, but I'm having a lot of trouble with the geometry.At this point, I need to pack it away for the night. Tomorrow mid morning I have to fly to Denver until Sunday, so if I can QUICKLY identify, tomorrow morning, even a single mounting screw that permits the board to sit comfortably within the casework, I'll give that a try--but not until I return from Denver, b/c putting it all back together enough to test it, looks like more hours than I have tomorrow AM.If you don't hear from me tomorrow AM, you will not hear from me again until Monday or Tuesday.Thanks for trying to figure this out.
No Problem. I seriously think it's just an upgraded board that utilizes 2 Plugs instead of 3. I say that because 1. It's very common for us to see happen and 2. It's the only Part Number given for your model anywhere. If all the Screw holes line up and plugs fit, then you'll know with 100% certainty. I'm online everyday so feel free to complete this on your watch.
Back from travel.I am sending more photos.SCREW HOLES DO NOT MATCH! No alignment of the new board permits more than ONE screw to be attached.SOCKET FOR POWER MATCHES A CONNECTOR; NO SOCKET FOR DATA MATCHES EVEN ONE OF THE DATA CONNECTORS. I begin to fell like this is a matter of theology: you tell me that the sacred texts say X about the two boards [they are basically identical] my eyes, and the photos I have sent you say differently.
Hey, just looked around everywhere and that is the only part number available for that models Inverter. What's the first 3 of the Serial number on that TV?
Please see my transmission of 15 May @18:24 EDT. The complete serial # XXPAL051000946.
Thanks. I'm still getting that Board as the only Board they used. The best thing to do is to give Shop Jimmy a call and see why this is the only Board marked for this model and see if they can locate the OEM Original for you and do a swap out. Their good people like that.
Dear XXXX L,Thanksnk fo following up.I'm at the road's end.I spoke with Shop Jimmy support, and the rep was ver helpful, explaining their unusual business model, and indicating that they had never once had even one Viewsonic TV in my production run to break down for parts. He referred me to two other vendors, who equally could not help me, but one gave me the Viewsonic cust support # XXXXX tester impatiently told me that only Parts could answer this question, and that they did not talk directly to end users, but that she would take the information, and Parts would email me. That was a week days ago, and I have given up., and just today arranged for the towne's toxic waste contractor to p/u the carcass, acd ordered a new screen.Because of my clumsiness (and the generally poor and annoying design if this site) I accidentally hit the "Not satisfied..." button on my touch screen.Please let me know if there is any way I can repair any damage I accidentally did to you. You have done your best in a maddening , chaotic product environment.Jonathan ShayXXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX
As far as I can tell, the "Not Satisfied" didn't count negatively towards my Feedback score and you have already accepted so no worries on any damage my friend.