So none of the lights on the front light up or display any blinking? Check around the edge of the TV for a power switch, Back when this GREEN "movement" started, they used to put power switches on the bottom and mostly on the rigth side....but I've seen a few on the Left.
They were so well hidden that if you moved the TV set you turned it off and never knew you did...until you turn it on later.
Ok, the LIGHTS are the KEY to your problem. Glad you found the switch too, a lot of people accidently turn off their TVs without even knowing it, and if it's off, the lights never light.
Since you've tried the power switch and the light did not come back on, then the Standby power supply isn't working, or the TV's microprocessor is dead and not lighting the lights.
If you have a voltmeter, then I'd check the 5 volt power supply. If you recently had a storm or something like a major power outage, inform me of that. I'd prefer a simple voltage test, but not everyone has a voltmeter in their homes, and a hardware store or a Sears store isn't nearby.
Fill me in on the availablity of the voltmeter.
You'd check ONE board....the power supply board. It creates the STANDBY 5 Volts to turn on the TV's microprocessor. Newer units may use 3.3 Volt standby because the micros are newer.
Either case, All TV sets have a standby power supply that makes that micro run all the time. The micro actually lights up the lights, and then IT turns on the REST of the power supply.
So your problem is rather easy to fix, but we need to test the Standby voltage.
Now...if you have a SEARS near you, the BEST Voltmeter for the LEAST MONEY comes from their stores ---
And the thing I LIKE about it is the fact you set it to DC Voltage and it reads all voltages from 1 Volt to 600 Volts DC.
And reading resistance is the same way. Set it and forget it. Place the black probe on ground and use the red probe to find the 5 or 3.3 Volt standby voltage.
Look at this --
You see how you just turn the knob to VDC and leave it there ? AUTORANGING meters are the BEST. Set it and forget it.
And for $27 versus most at $50+ , you can't go wrong with that price.
It's an "affordable tool" compared to getting TWO boards for the TV. Power supplys are cheap, Main boards are fair....I'm hoping you have a CHEAP repair.
I will tell you this...you would have paid around $150 to $200 labor to get a local Tech to fix this.
That's where you're saving all your money at. You pay $42 and $27 and that's $69. You get to KEEP the voltmeter too for future repairs on Just Answer.
And you save at least $80 to $130 over hiring a Tech to work on it.
Oh, by the way....I save too. I don't have to drive to your home. I'm available 6AM to 10PM , even on the weekends.
We both benefit.
Ok, got a digital camera? Let me know.
I will be looking up info, and trying to piece together the next step in troubleshooting. I'm going to TRY to make this as easy as possible on you.
ONLY if you can transfer the PICTURE using Email to your HOME computer, then saving the picture to your Computer's desktop....
Once you have the picture on your desktop, IE 8 or 9, or Google Chrome or Foxfire can be used to transfer the picture to your response box on Just Answers.
Like THIS --
And this ---
On Google Chrome you have to ADD TEXT, press REPLY, Then press EDIT to get the paperclip to appear.
Safari or Opera....forget it. No paper clip and none on Cell phones either. That's going to be ADDED, but it's not here, right now.
Anyways, there is an issue with the TV's MODEL. You may have MORE model number than just the VP50 part of it. You'll need to get the TV down anyways, and lay it on a PADDED table near a power plug. Once you do that, look at the sticker on the back for the model and serial number. Here is the list of possible models, plus it shows you WHY we need the serial number too.
Dang...I sure hope you didn't just pull that off the list I gave you....that was just an example of what you would see on the sticker. The Big Fat Arrow pointed to all the possible VP50 models, and that smaller arrow pointed to the serial numbers and what part we needed from the serial number.
Otherwise...I got REAL LUCKY selecting the same model as you have. There's an H missing in the serial, it is there, correct?
OK, with the info above being CORRECT -- here are your Test points for ALL TESTS that we may run.
SET your voltmeter to the DC Volts setting --Thats the V with the two FLAT lines above the V. Or the Vdc setting....
This picture shows the 5 Volt Standby test pad, it shows the POWER ON Test PIN (4th from bottom of the plug)
And....Never trust the picture over your OWN EYES. If you see the Power on Pin elsewhere, they may have modified the board. Same with the 5Vsby or standby 5 Volts.
The key is the board IS MARKED with the INFO. How do you think we field techs pull the back cover off, pull out our meters, test a few points....and then tell you what the problem is ?
Because the GOOD manufacturers MARK the test points and they mark them LOGICALLY.
5vsb....P-on ....short, and sweet.
Now, the BLACK test probe can simply be touched to the metal backside of the Plasma Panel because that's 0 Volts or Ground /GND.
All voltages are measured with the black test probe connected to that.
The RED test probe is the one you use to measure the 5 Volt standby FIRST.
Gotta have that at 5 Volts DC when the TV is plugged in. All the time.
The P-on line -- If the micro is WORKING, that P-On line should measure 0 Volts when OFF, and 5 Volts when ON.
Picture too small? Look at the lower right corner of IE 8 -- That + 100 box will let you magnify the Picture for a better closeup of the picture.
Sorry, the picture isn't from my Sony 14MP camera. It's probably from a 2MP camera.
I went and tested the 5 volt test pin and the needle on my volt meter needle never moved
Ok, let's make sure the meter is working before assuming the power supply board is bad.
Get a battery, whether it's a 1.5 volt or a 9 volt battery (preferred) and measure it. You should get a reading from the battery if it's working. If it is, let me know.
Keep it set to the same setting you measured the 5 volts with.
tested a 9 volt battery meter working fine
You need this part then --
Ok, here is the part you need to order --
A lot of places are out of stock right now, so order it quickly.
A little MORE expensive, but better than nothing --
That should get you up and running, since there's no startup/run voltage to the micro.
Best to order it online. You really can't go to Sears (possibly) and find they have one in stock, but Sears does sell parts at their part store. I just don't expect they'll have it.
That's why online is faster and easier to me. Shop in your skivvies. No gas, no drive time.
Got a Sears part store near you? Call them if you want. Give them the
0940 -0000-2180 number, and give them the LJ44-00132B number. One is the Vizio part number, the other is the Samsung Board number. Yes, some parts are built by Samsung.