TV Repair Questions? Ask a TV Technician
If you've replaced the bulging caps and it still clicks, then your 5 Volt standby circuit on that power supply board should be fixed. That supply in turn powers up the TV's micro, which then powers up the relay on the power supply board.
So the power supply makes the main board's micro turn on the relay on the power supply.....
If you replaced the caps, and it still clicks, most likely the TV's micro is delivering a Hi / Low to the Pow On line. That's what actually turns on the relay.
What I like to do to see which one is bad....I jumper the Pow On line to the 5 Volt standby connection and see if the relay STOPS clicking. It'll click ON....and it should STAY ON.
To FIND the P-ON or POW-ON, look at your power supply board, see if it has this little box of information right by the double-row plug. The KEY is to identify the P-ON and the 5V stby, disconnect the cable from the main board, and stick that jumper on the P-ON and 5Vstby holes and make the relay turn on.
Check this --
You see that? I wrote that up for another customer, because he sent me a picture of his plug. I showed him that one side is odd, the other side is even numbered wires....the white rectangular box right by it has the Pow on and 5vstby marked in it.....all the info is there to see if the Power supply relay turns on, and stays on. And if it does.....then you deal with the TV's main board.
As for the EEPROM....forget it. Samsung doesn't just sell the EEPROM as a part.
To get the main board -- there is a BARCODED sticker on it. It has a BNxx-xxxxx number.
Get that number and you're halfway there.
And yes, I am assuming you have certain technical skills since you think the EEPROM is IC 2103.
We can't fix it that way. I didn't make the rules, Samsung did. I can only point you in the right direction, and get you up to speed on how Samsung Techs fix problems like yours.
I'm here if you need me. Of course keep in mind it's Sunday, I have chores to do, and yes, I am across the big pond. I check in once an hour for responses from mulitple customers, but I am HERE.
Thanks for your answer, I will try as you suggest to jumper the power supply to see if the problem is the PSU or Main Board. (My main board part number is XXXXX).
If the fault is on the main board, does it have to be a replacement board, or can the eeprom be reset by shorting out pins 5 and 6, as was possible on earlier models.
Unfortunately I will not be able to tackle this job till tomorrow, will let you know how I get on.
I've never attempted to reset the EEPROM on any TV set for the last 10 years. No service bulletin from any manufacturer has stated to do that either. I do know if that was a VALID fix...they would have posted it, or they would have stated it anytime I call them.
They don't want you to Buy parts....they want their TV's fixed today, not 5 days later.
So jumpering pins 5 and 6....you can Try it. You have NOTHING to lose. It's broke. It'll be just as broke or it will Revive itself, and both of us will have LEARNED a new trick to fixing the clicking relay issue !
But most of the time, after replacing the caps, the clicking has been fixed by replacing the main board. That's my experience.
Anyways, if you have issues finding the P-on line on the power supply (they mark one board or the other, not both) let me know. They put it there so us field techs can work on the TV sets out in the customer's homes and identify whether the power supply is ok, or not.
Wish you the best. See you tomorrow.
Tried the jumper between pins 1 and 3 of plug to Main board as suggested, relay stopped clicking, so connected plug to main board, clicking came back.
So I assumed the trouble was on the main board, tried shorting pins 5 and 6 of eeprom during power up, tried several times, no effect. Looks like maybe a new Main board required.
Came back to look at PSU just in case. Pin outs as below
1 Power On/Off
3 STB 5.2V
Although I could measure the Standby voltage of 5.2V on pin 3, I could not measure the 12V, 5.4V and 13V on pins 7, 13 and 19 respectively.(measured a few mV and erratic)
This was with jumper connected to plug OR when lead connected to Main board.
I would have thought these voltages would be here if the relay was on, either when jumpered and relay on OR intermitent when connected to main board and clicking on and off.
Do you think I could have another fault with the PSU ?, before I go to the expense of replacing the Main board.
Many thanks for your help.
You see how the GNDs are evenly spaced between the voltages that you measured?
Jumper pins 1 and 3. Make sure it's on.
Then, use the nearest GND to the nearest voltage you are measuring. OR --
Activate your continuity tester. Probe those GND pins, and see if the BACK of the LCD panel is grounded to the GND pins when the cable is disconnected from the main board.
It is possible that those readings you got was from an UNCONNECTED ground point.
If in question, I take a jumper, insert it into one of the GND holes, and test to make sure the GND point I'm measuring from is NOT ISOLATED from the OTHERs
You did notice that the GNDS are evenly spaced on that plug , right?
You could have a separated GND for each voltage right beside it.
Have completed continuity test between all GND's on plug, back panel of LCD and Ground terminal on PSU board with plug disconnected from main board and jumper fitted on pin 1 and 3. All connected OK.
Tried to measure the voltages @ 12V (pin 7), 5.4V (pin13) and 13V (pin 19) against all possible ground points on plug and board - No voltage (2-3 mV only) measured at each point. Only measurement possible 5.2V on pin 3 (STB) with respect to all grounds.
Sounds like further problem with PSU.
Well it does sound dead after running those tests. If only the 5 Volt standby is running, the 12 and 13 Volt lines should have come alive with the power on line jumpered.
Main board part number -- BN94-01412J
Power supply board part number -- BN44-00167C
Charles Hyde & Son sells both --
Now I do recommend you do some shopping by using the bolded part numbers, and Google it online. You may find other prices that are better.
I'm really surprised that both boards were affected, it's almost like a storm passed and damaged both. But you said you had the clicking issue for some time now, correct?
You may have stressed both if you ignored the problem for several months, that's the only other Logical reason that both are bad.
Order those boards and your TV will be fully operational again.
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Tips are greatly appreciated !