This will tell us a lot....
Simply activate the TV's menu and see if it stays on when you lose your "no signal" box.
If it stays on, then we deal with the source, if it doesn't, then we deal with seeing if the panel stays primed or not.
We want to know if the panel is still "gently lit" if the MENU does not appear.
Best to look at it in a darkened room. Just close the drapes on your windows or wait till night and turn off the room lighting. When you power it up, you should see the panel glow a little, and it should stay that way. If it goes black like it is when turned off. Let me know that.
But run the MENU test first, because if you get the menu, your panel is primed and lit.
Listen, these are not Automated Responses from a computer designed to ask questions, key in on specific words, then run IF - Then comparatives which then Isolate it to another IF-Then Subroutine....
That's what a computer would do.
Nope, you have a human being here.
This human being Eats...Sleeps...Goes to work in his field of Expertise...comes home, Eats, Reads his Just Answers responses, and then determines with his Human Brain (computer) what to do next.
That human brain is one of the Better Computers out there....
The fact that your TV set does not stay primed is not good.
That's why the Menu test is one of the best IF-THEN statements.
IF your TV displays a picture (the CADTV and the NO SIGNAL) THEN it goes out.....
You have a problem with either the LCD panel or the Inverter that PRIMES (lights up) the panel.
Now, here's where the experience (from working) comes into play....
I've had bad Inverters....they NEVER light
I've had bad LCD panels.... They light up, but then they lose their light, usually seconds after it's turned on.
If I was a good computer....the programming would point to the LCD panel.
The fact is, Just Answers doesn't use computers...they use experts....that work in the field of expertise.
This human does sleep. It restores his ability to analyse.
Right now, your information you told me points to a faulty LCD panel. The inverter is lighting up, the Balancer is firing the CCFL lamps, the lamps have a defect that is registered by the balancer, so the balancer is sending back a fail code which is shutting down the inverter so smoke doesn't roll out the back of your TV cabinet.
If you want to replace the panel -- then there is a Product Service number on your TV set. It's the MODEL with additional letters past it that determine the parts used to build it.
Here you go --
One of those sub-numbers will determine the correct part to purchase.
So let's run another sub-routine ....
IF you want the LCD's part number, THEN I need you to get the suffix from the Product Service number listed on the back or side of your TV set.
But I will see what the cost is on one of those sub-numbers, so you have an idea what it will likely cost.
Ok, so the part is $336.81. or roughly close to that.
IF you want, I'll get the part number if you get the full product service number off the TV set.
THEN I'll post it here when I get home from work, depending on when you respond.
If you have any questions, just ask
Tips are greatly appreciated !
Product code is the same as the product service number. LG has used both on their TV sets
Don't worry about tips. It's not required. We throw that into our signoff posting (like a robot).
Ok, here is your part number -- CRD30496001
It's available at --
Hit the dollar bar, then copy and paste the part number in bold into the part # XXXXX box on the left.
Googling the part number came up with nothing, which is surprising to me.
Anyways, to replace it, you must remember that they may expect you to ship the OLD panel back to get a Core Charge returned to you. Some LCD panels have this, but Encompass does not list it, so I'll assume you don't have to return it.
With THAT in mind (no core charge) you can actually buy the panel for $390.97.
You can replace it yourself, because it's pretty simple to do.
First you remove all the screws on the rear cover, you lay the TV face down on a padded table, you remove the power supply board along with the main board (power supply has the AC Cord/Plug attached, and the MAIN board has all the INPUT jacks on it.
You remove or simply disconnect the speakers and any cables that are connected to the boards (on the other end -- keep the cables attached to the boards you remove)
Then you remove the bracket that the stand plugs into.
Remove any screws mounting the LCD panel to the front Faceplate, then pull the old LCD panel out, remove the protective film on the front of the NEW LCD panel (taped to it to protect the LCD membrane) then transfer the panels.
I like to lay my screws out in certain piles....like one for all the rear cover screws, one for the boards being removed, then one for all the LCD mounting screws and Stand.
That way, while I reassemble it, I finish one stage (like mounting the panel and stand) and I will NOT have extra screws still sitting in the LCD panel/stand pile !
Then the same applies with the boards....
Then finally the rear cover.
If you are unsure of yourself, do two things....take a picture of the OLD LCD panel with just the back cover removed, and use a permanent marker to colorize the screw holes and the edges of the boards and where they mount !
You'll find it's not hard to exchange the panels, but if you're scared to do it, expect a tech to charge about $150 for minor labor.
So there's the realistic numbers to consider $390 for the LCD panel, and then $150 if you choose to have a tech do the work.
Ok, so here's my robot sign off ---
Oh.....one more thing...the Lincoln Continental.
Your Alarm system uses a Body Capacitance sensor. It's connected directly to the Body of the car, and it's job is to measure if somebody is touching it. It does this by energizing the body of the car with a oscillator (your car acts like a radio transmitter)
When you touch it, the water in your body SHIFTS the frequency, like you just changed the channel from 97.3 FM to 96.5 FM.
That sets off the car alarm....
What usually happens is the oscillator ages, shifts frequency then your alarm goes nuts on you.
The Body Capacitance sensor needs replacement.
Darn it...I had tons of info for you, and I ERASED IT !!!
Ok, I'll get down to brass tacks.
Don't buy Dynex ...no parts to service it. Don't buy Chinese...same issue. That's why they are cheap, they break you throw it away.
Buy Sony, LG, Panasonic or Samsung. They have service AND Support. Better investment of your money.
KEEP the EMAIL you get sent, and that will ALWAYS get you back to this Question and Answer .....
Or you can simply SAVE the posting with your FAVORITES button. The $28 covers ALL --Tips are YOUR choice. I don't really expect tips.
Now, the LINCOLN. I have some working knowledge of alarms because I worked at a couple alarm companies back in the 80's
I am not a Lincoln Auto Mechanic.
My suggestion is to either check with your local library and see if they can connect you up with the County's MAIN library to see if they have either Chilton's or Haynes or even the Ford electronic schematics available.
The next alternative is to get the HAYNEs manual for your Lincoln at Autozone.
They help, but that alarm has to be a Lincoln alarm, not an aftermarket alarm.
I have to assume the sensor would be located in the dash or the firewall, but I haven't ever had a Lincoln that I worked on.
That's more for the Auto Experts here.....
Well, how long is the fee good for? As long as you want. No, you can't use the fee over and over, it's limited to this question. But the ANSWER is yours, when you close it, it stays in your Account . You access Just Answers, it's still there 2 years later.
Tips are the same here, but like I said it's not a requirement, It's more of a " extra Thank you for the help" type thingy....
Ok, the Lincoln...makes sense to look around the driver's kick panel or just under the dash. It needs to be connected to the body of the car, and it will be close to the alarm control module.
I know what I would do...I'd call the nearest Ford dealer, talk to either the Parts or the Tech responsible for the Electrical. I'd get their name, then ask if he could call back. Try to get him just coming off break. Best time to get him, just before he starts working.
AM call in the morning -- good time too.
I did find that the disarm is located in the driver's kick panel, so it's likely to be real close to that.
Copy and paste this URL to your internet explorer, then just save it as a Favorite website. It takes you directly back to our conversation.
You can save the Email you get too. But this url pretty much guarantees you have access to this conversation, no matter what internet software package you use.
Well, we have two problems....first problem is, that we can get kicked out of Just Answers for supplying our Email addy. Second problem is that JA blocks both the customer's and the expert's Addy and any personal info posted here. They do want to protect their rights too.
Actually I'm up in Toledo. Lived in Fort Wayne went to college there, got my license down in Indy, and service around the Toledo / Port Clinton areas.
Sorry to hear about the hack. That's the problem with Email, you accidently open the wrong one up and then you're done. My wife likes Malwarebyte's anti-malware program, and I'm into Avast anti-virus myself. The key is both work fine, but they work BETTER when you buy the programs. Free is free, but paid is real vicious when it finds hacks and stuff. We have both on our computers.
That's the way it should be.Free protects, and paid is a step up to removing the viruses.