TV Repair Questions? Ask a TV Technician for Answers ASAP
Thank you for posting your question on Just Answer! I will be happy to help you with this problem. Can you please give us some more information so I can better answer your questions.
-Can you determine exactly whether it is 8 or 9 please? or is it going between the two?
-How old is the unit?
Please give me this information and I will be happy to assist you further.
Thanks for your reply.
From the plate on the back of the unit, it was made in Mexico, Dec 2003 SN=8771500 RA-6A.
Here is a more detailed description of what happened:
When it went bad a few days ago, after turning the power on, it will have about 2 or 3 seconds of sound but no picture with the standby light flashing -- I was not counting so I didn't know how many flashes.
Now after I did the power chord unplug sequence, there is no sound anymore. Instead it does the following sequence:
1. Cut on the power. there is a clicking sound (relay?) and the standby LED flashes 7 times at about 1 flash per second.
2. At the end of 7 flashes, there is again a clicking sound, same as the one before. Without any intervening dark period, the flashes continues at a faster pace, about half second per flash for a total of 8 flashes, followed by a dark peroid of 3 seconds.
3. After the 3 second dark peroid, it starts to flash at 2 flashes per second for a total of 8 flashes, followed by a 3-second dark period. This sequence would repeat itself endlessly without any clicking sound.
4. Press the power button at this time will not turn the power off but will stop those sequences in 3 and start doing 1 again. It seems that only two quick presses of the power button will turn the unit off.
Looking forward to hearing from you again,
Ok the 8 blink code on this is the high voltage circuit has failed, this is actually common on this model what has most likely happened is the flyback transformer has failed, and probably the horizontal output is shorted. In short the set needs an internal repair, this circuit is normally $400-$500 to repair if done by a qualified professional.
If you know how to use a meter and solder very well then I can assist you with the troubleshooting and diagnosis of this problem. If you do not know how then you will either need a new set or a repairman at this point. I am sorry for having no quick fix or easy answer.
If you would like any additional information or have more questions please don't hesitate to ask!
I'm quite good with soldering and electronics and know TV in theory and have a Voltmeter (not a high voltage one). So if we can proceed to nail down exactly what parts that need to be replaced and their cost. And of course, I also need to know how much you will be charging for your service in this process. Then I can make my decision on whether that I'll make the repair or junk it.
Looking forward to your reply. Thanks,
Payment is up to you, I cannot name a price, so far your question is worth $13 if you choose to pay a bonus at the end you can do that.
If you like to proceed then let me first give you the warning: If you decide to repair this set yourself you will need to be careful, this set feeds the tubes with tens of thousands of volts and if you are not careful and do not know exactly what you are doing you can be hurt. There are also many different caps in the set that hold a charge and can hurt you as well. In addition I have seen many good people destroy their sets because they did not know what they were doing and either broke a circuit board or damaged some traces causing their sets to never work again. If you decide to go forward please take your time and if you are ever not sure on something please stop and ask me! Its better to take a day or two more to fix your set rather than destroy it
If take the back off and send me a picture it is easiest for me to circle what I need you to check, if you cannot get a picture then I can pull a manual and give you location numbers, just a little more work that is all.
(if you can post a picture, please click the icon above where you are typing with the green tree on it. This will allow you to upload a picture)
Let me know.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm aware of the danger to work on high voltage units and the caps that fold charge. I was told that it may take 5 days for them to leak their charges.
I have a time constraint here. I'm going out of town on the 7th (thu) and won't be back for about a month. I'd like to determine the cost of the repair before I leave.
Anyway here is an image of the unit with the back off. Let me know if you need more.
Thanks in advance for your further help.
Sorry but I see no photo...Can you try and send it to [email protected]
Ok you need to put your red lead on the middle leg of that transistor, and your black lead on the metal of the rf connector (thing sticking out the back of the set that you screw the cable into) put your meter on OHMS. What does it read?
I have a Radioshack Micronta multimeter. I put the dial on KOhm and it first read 1600+-20. Then I put the dial on diode Ohm, it went over ranged (flashing 1000). Then I switched back to KOhm the reading stayed on over ranged. After some calibration and wait, the KOhm reading came back to 1900+50.
When the power is turned on (the first click), the meter reads 132V DC during the 7 slow flashes and as soon as the second click sounds and 8 fast flashes starts, the meter reads 200 mv and dropping.
Thank you for your positive comments. I also left a very positive feedback, This is my first time seeking help this way and it went beyond my expectations. I hope you would continue give me instructions to help me identify the bad components and the cost to get it repaired/replaced.
Hey, I am so sorry, I had a family emergency to deal with yesterday and was not able to get here, I apologize greatly for leaving you hanging.
The next thing I need you to do is take a pair of wire cutters and cut the middle leg of that transistor (we can always solder it back together later) Once you cut it separate the two pieces and test the voltage on the piece coming out of the board. At this point I am hoping the set stays on and the voltage stays at 135V
let me know.
Thanks for your response.
Yes, the voltage stays up at 132V.
The sequence is as follows:
Time: Power-on: 11 slow flashes -- 15 sec dark -- (5 fast flashes -- 3 sec dark)()...
Voltage: 132V DC until powered off
Definitely sounds like a bad flyback, that large transformer right there needs to be replaced.
1-453-285-21 is the part number for the flyback, it is around $70.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Is the flyback transformer the one with 4 red thick cables or is it the one beside the transistor with only one red HV cable? Is it on one of the pictures that I sent to you? If so, would you mark it with an arrow like the last one you sent me. Any disassembly instructions (desoldering, cable unplugging), high voltage concerns?
Do you have the part(s)? Can I order it from you?
Thanks for you further help,
The flyback is the transformer right next to that horizontal, i have a picture below with the blue arrow pointing to it. It has 2 red wires coming out the top.
You can order a new one at http://www.encompassparts.com/ or http://www.partstore.com/
When you take the large red lead out of the tripper, it is kinda difficult, you have to push in, turn, and then pull. But don't pull hard or you will bend the clips inside and never get it out. This is something that is almost impossible for me to show you how online, hopefully my description is good enough to assist you in getting it out.
Once you get the red wire out of the tripper you need to touch it to the metal there that the tripper is mounted to, this will discharge any voltage left on the wire.
De soldering the flyback is a piece of cake, you should be able to get it done. If you have any other questions let me know.
Thank you so much for the picture.
From your answer, I have just couple more questions:
1. Regarding uplugging the cable, is the turn clockwise or CCW? how much is the turn (half, 1/4 or 3/4)? Does the small red cable require the same treatment?
2. Does the board with the transistor and the flyback have any HV caps that I need to get them discharged when I try to take the board out to do the repair?
1) It is hard to describe, it does not matter which way you turn it, I suggest waiting for the new one before you try to remove the old one, once you get the new one look at the end, you will see it is round with 2 tabs, well inside the hole of the trippler there is 2 slots that these tabs have to fit in for it to pull out, it is in no specific relation to CCW or CW just have to play with it.
2) no, you should be ok, just don't touch anything if you don't have to, this is always the best policy.
I think I'll tackle this problem when I get back from my out-of-twon trip.
I have a friend in NC where I am going, who has a mitsubishi projection TV which cannot be turned on. When I was there last time (2 month ago), I took the fuse out and tested it OK. I think he still has it and may want to go through the same process to see if it can be fixed. How do we ask for you when we go to the justanswer site?
Sounds good, when you get to the other set, just use the link in your email to get back to this same exact page, we can work on it together here.