Vince, when you first plug in the set and check the error code before you turn it on, it will always give you a 1-2 code. After the set shuts down, what is the error code then?
Also, I doubt that you needed to replace a lot of the stuff you replaced, why did you replace more than just the DM caps?
I have the convc ic out of board,can I turn the tv on to get the code or should I reinstall the ic. The tv started its 1st problem all most a year ago.I have been trying to fix it using web sights like this one. 1st problem was blinking green light blinking,according to the first chat,I needed to replace fly back trans and horizontal chip. Replaced the caps. Turn tv on no more blinking light. But then you pres the button and it acts like i wrote the last chat that you responded to.I hope together we can fix the tv.Thank you for the info,waiting to hear from you. Thanks Vince
Vince, absolutely you can turn on the TV without that IC in the circuit. What I expect you have is a blown fuse in the power supply for the convergence output circuit, but even with the chip out, the set will shut down.
So turn it on, let it shut down, and try the code.
Just as I thought.
Check fuses F9A04 and F9A05. They are small 5 amp fuses on that same board as the convergence IC, and I'll bet one of them is blown. If so, replace both them. They are located near the power transformer.
You can order a box a 5 of these fuses by logging onto MCM Electronics and ordering part number 28-0636.
Let me know if you need any more help, and thanks for using JustAnswer!
Thanks again for a quick reply. If I understand correctly, F9A04 is a switched 24v dc+ when switch on front of tv is pressed. It has 24v dc+ on both sides of green fuse when plugged in. F9A05 has 24v dc- on both sides of green fuse at all times/ Hopefully this helps us both.
Then most likely, the convergence IC didn't cause any issue, but don't bother putting it back in until we get the set to stay on. And, by the way, this is odd for this TV. A 2-2 error code almost always means one of those fuses is bad.
A 2-2 code means there is (or was) some overload on the power supply, so you need to check all of the other fuses, specifically F9A03, since you relaced stuff in the deflection and high voltage circuits. You may regret havoing done that. Unless I'm missing something, that wasn't necessary.
Vince, I really appreciate it!
No, don't put the old one back in, let's just take this one step at a time.
If you did a neat job of putting that fuse in, you'll be fine. I do usually recommend that both of those fuses should be replaced. Put the IC back in and start watching TV!
WELL I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH. It worked!! I have another question, should I lift the tv off the carpet about a half an inch. And install a cooling fan that runs constantly. Thanks again we will surly give a bonus.Waiting to here from you soon.
Vince, unless you run this TV for many hours a day, I think the ventilation from the back really should be sufficient. If you want to install a fan, place it so that it moves air over the heat sink for the convergence IC.
Hello again ,
Well the ws6511 mitsubishi projection is at it again.
Turn the tv on the screen is red. We can see the picture.About three seconds later the tv turns off.I removed the back to see what the guns are doing. The RED gun is on, the GREEN,BLUE gun are off for the first second. Then the GREEN,BLUE guns come on.The RED gun stays on then they all go off.
Vince, you either have a defective red CRT or red CRT drive card. Unplug the blue and green drive cards from their tubes and turn the set on. Does the red tube still come on strong?
If so, pull the red card off, and put the green card on the red tube. Red tube OK? It's the red drive card. Red tube still come on strong? It's the tube.
The cables don't seem to be long enough to reach. And if I remove the cables they all match except the sp cable it appears to be different.
You have to disconnect the black ground leads that go up to the tubes, but if you remove both the green and blue cards, you should be able to move the green down to red for the test.
Did you try just the red card on the red tube test?
I was able to do the test. By putting the green crt board on the red gun.The red gun was on and the tv did not shut off.Leading me to think the red crt board is malfunctioning. If I understand what you have sent us. That board about five years ago had a cracked trace. I was able to find it by luck.
Thank you Vince
I think you are confused. I did not fix it this time. I was hoping yoou might have any ideas as to what is wrong with the board.
Sorry, did you say you found a crack on the red card? If so, you can jump the cracks in any PC trace with insulated jumper wire soldered from point to point over the crack.
Or you can order a set of 3 cards for about $161. The part number for all 3 is 935C965003, and if you click on Encompass and log in as a guest, put that number in the part number box and you can order them.
I did say I found a crack but it was a while back and I was able to repair it. I am wondering if the chip is bad on the red crt board or what normally goes bad.
Vince, I don't usually replace parts on these boards, because the usual failure is in the AKB (or auto cathode balance) circuit, and any board can cause picture problems.
But if what you have is the red tube turning on full blast, you may just have the video output IC that is bad. But I would expect there to be obvious signs on the board that something overheated and burned out, because in order for the tube to turn on full, there has to be a loss of the +200 volts DC at the cathode of the red tube, so if the IC has shorted that out, something on that board should have gotten hot and discolored.
Once again as a team the tv is working. I adjusted the red and blue cross hacthes.The color is close but not perfect. I believe the adjustments on the six black knobs,( BY THE RED CRT TUBE) One can adjust the top screws does the color of each one.The bottom screws might be fine adjustment. Not sure. I was told a long time ago that if you adjust a tube tv in black and white perfect you get a very good color picture. Thanks again. If you get this berfore Christmas Merry Christmas. Vince
Vince, those color controls don't work like other TV's. If you adjust the red SCREEN control, for example, just a little bit CW, you should see the picture momentarily get redder, then go back to where it was. Similarly if you turn it CCW.
But there is a precise setting for where these are supposed to be, and you need at least a voltmeter to get it right.
The other 3 controls are for the electronic focus of each tube.
And merry Christmas to you, too!
Vince, the way to set the screen controls is to display a black screen. You need to have the TV's BRIGHTNESS control in the correct ballpark. The black screen can just be an unused input (the green lettering at the top is OK).
You need to measure the voltage at the test point on each CRT drive card and use the screen control for the tube you are adjusting and set it to read in the 185 volts DC range. It's not super criticalm just as long as it's near that value. See below for the test point.
For setting the focus, I just put up the TV's convergence crosshair, use the covergence controls to offset the red and blue crosshiars from green (so that you have 3 crosshairs on screen, and just tweak each focus control for best focus. Blue will never focus as sharply as red or green, and on Mits sets, green is usually slightly out of focus because the green lens (inside the light box) probably is off. Always seems to be.