TV Repair Questions? Ask a TV Technician for Answers ASAP
Hi my name is Eric,
I can help you with your issue,
This could be really simple. Sounds like a blown thermal fuse sony had an issue with these fuses blowing for no reason
The thermal fuse is a wire that plugs in inside the TV near the lamp.
I can get you the part number, if you want to replace it yourself.
A repairman will charge about $250 to replace the fuse wire.
Let me know
If you need more assistance,please tell me your technical ability,
1 I can solder and check voltages and want to know what board/part is bad so I can fix it myself
2 I am pretty good at figuring things out, but do not want to open the Tv up
3 I just know how to turn on my TV
This way, I can help you without getting to technical unless needed.
If I have helped you with your issue please click accept.
If you have more questions you can still respond until this post expires,
I will reply asap
Taking awhile to respond because I have been researching your issue (sorry),
From my experience I have replaced the thermal fuse and fixed a few of these , thermal fuse error is usually 9 or 10 blinks , but some had 6 blinks go figure,
Check the fuse or replace it if you want part #(NNN) NNN-NNNN/p>
Sonys bulletin mentions an open fuse on the G1 board causing 7 blink error not 6 but who knows , the error are a tool thats all.
I have seen the posts about the G1 board not , but there is not sony bulletin I can find on it.
Will ask our resident sony guru at work tommorrow.
Do you need the G1 board part number
I don't think the thermal fuse blows like a fuse , it could be intermitent or failing.
Its a thermal fuse that changes with temperature not current flow.
What else can I help you with?
Let me know
I don't know, but a simple solution is to simply jump it out temporarily (as a test) or replace it and see if the TV still will not come on. I carry the fuse with me and since it just plugs in, I just connect it and see if the fans spin (do your fans spin?)
If you fans do spin its not the fuse,
There are a few black and white wires coming from the lamp area, you do need to pull the rear fan out and shine a light to follow each wire. The little fan on top of the lamp has the thermal fuse wire running out of its housing. I carry an old top fan with me as a test fuse (also have new ones on the truck) . The original thermal fuse is a metal thing, the new ones are little plastic ones that you just position close to the old one .
I just disconnected one to check and yes 6 blinks when the fuse is unplugged.
The black and white wire comes out of the top of the tunnel fan ,
Please click accept after you jump the fuse wire (not the fan side) and the TV works again!
I took a photo of the wire for you, will post it later after photoshopping it down to size.
here is a picture of the thermal fuse wire , as promised
Here is another picture from the rear, I just checked the manual and it still looks like the same set I post the photo above for. In this picture the fan is unscrewed and pulled out , the fan is held in with about three screws. One screw is on the bottom,
After removing the rear metal bracket then the fan you can into the lamp rear end.
You don't need to remove any fans to jump the wire, just remove the lower fan when installing a new sensor.
The other photo is just a close up right above and in alittle where the fan was removed from.
There is another fan sitting on the light engine just above the lamp rear area.
Thats what the other photo is, the other fan sitting on top with the white and gray wire.
coming out from it, the wire runs into the lamp rear area to the existing thermal sensor and across the back to the circuit board section.
If this is not what your TV looks like let me know because I checked and double checked the model number.
If you want to do it yourself , that is what you need to do.
I can provide limited technical help, I have given you the solution to bring this dead set back to working. Its up to you to find and replace the fuse if you believe me, if not, another tech may be able to assist you instead.
If you are not technically inclined you may do more damage then good. I recommend calling a repairman if you are not 100% confident working inside this TV.
Best of luck
Sorry about that I still don't know what question you are referring to?
Here is from a few posts above
"There are a few black and white wires coming from the lamp area, you do need to pull the rear fan out and shine a light to follow each wire."
I guess I assumed you had the back off. Sorry again about that
The only accessable part from the front is the lamp assembly.
I will try to be more clear , if there is an unanswered question you want answered please post it again.
Let me know what you find
I don't know, if the thermal fuse was acting up and then it suddenly worked when you pushed the button and it came on, The thermal fuse may be intermitent.
Sony had us replacing the defective metal ones with little plastic ones.
Yours probably still has the defective metal one in it.
You may have another problem with the G1 board, we won't know until you jump or replace the fuse, see if it stays working.
Let me know when you are able to jump or replace the fuse.
I hope thats all it is.
Best of luck with it
Eric I am sorry this took so long. Today I just disconnected and moved a ton of equipment and finally got behind the TV. I removed the back panel and quickly found the thermal fuse wire but was unable to see where the actual fuse should be placed. I disconnected the old fuse wire and connected the new one.
There is a picture on the screen as I speak so you were right from the beginning. The only problem left is that the lamp is not protected from overheating because I don't know where the fuse needs to be. I also can not see where the old failed fuse is in reference to the lamp. If I can get the fuse placed, I will approve your payment immediately.
With the rear fan slid out you can see inside the area behind the fan.
You can just lay the thermal fuse tip part inside the area just in front of the fan, put a piece of tape on the wire to hold it down, that way its in the housing close enough to protect the TV. I usually lay the fuse tip in there like I mentioned.
Glad you were able to get it going.
If you need more help just let me know
If you want to remove the light engine you can, the original fuse wire runs into the tunnel fan (scirroco fan) on the top there.
I am telling you to place the fuse below inside the housing , the original thermal fuse is a larger round metal thing on some or its mounted in the top in the scirocco fan assembly on top , the new one is a little sensor , You may not be able to mount it where the original was/is.
it just needs to sit about 3 or 6 inches behind the lamp (not to close) inside the section anywhere behind the fan I show removed. run the wire outside , up the side . tape it down and after reinstalling the rear fan make sure it is taped against some plastic so it has no chance of getting pinched or caught by the fan. If either fans stops spinning the sensor will get hot enough in that area and shut down the Tv.
If you want to remove the scricco fan there are a few screws holding it down, but its a real pain to get out and you'll probably break it trying. My advise, leave it alone mount the new one on the bottom
I hope this helps,
Please click accept when you can
Eric, this isn't going so well. As for placing the fuse, I had seen several websites that advised taping the new fuse right near the bad fuse. Heat rises and the original fuse was above the lamp and away from the fan. I followed your advice and taped it to the bottom of the open area between the lamp housing and the fan. So far the TV has not erupted into flames.<g>
When I turned on the set today, I thought I saw 5 red lights, but then it again began flashing red 6 times and just like when this first started, pressing the On button several times, the picture came on.
There may have been a different series of red flashes before the six red, but I was not expecting it to appear at all. Now I can't repeat the process until the set is off for several hours or so because once the set has been on, it turns back on with no problem.
Next time I will be watching closely to get the sequence correctly.
You will need to position the fuse where you think best, XXXXX XXXXX post a photo of the scirocco fan that has the fuse built into it if you need, it does sit above the lamp assembly I believe.
I usually just position it on the bottom, but not to close to the lamp.
At this point I have helped you alot and I see not even an accept of my solutions authorizing my payment for helping you.
Some customers are so grateful for the help they pay the bonus too.
>>>At this point I have helped you alot and I see not even an accept of my solutions authorizing my payment for helping you.
Do I have this right, in your reply containing the above statement, you address placement of the fuse which I clearly stated that I did it your way, but totally ignored the fact that your "...I have helped you a lot..." has resulted in ZERO progress.
I bought the fuse, I removed the fuse you said was defective and I installed the new fuse exactly as you instructed. Just now, when I turned the TV on, I watched closely and saw the green light flash 6 times followed by six red flashed repeating again and again.
By pressing the ON button each time the red flashes began, after 7 times the green light returned and the TV picture appeared.
THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT WAS HAPPENING THE VERY FIRST DAY I POSTED MY PROBLEM HERE.
What exactly should I be so overjoyed about that motivated you to say, "Some customers are so grateful for the help they pay the bonus too." Your diagnosis that the fuse was bad was apparently 100% wrong, so what makes you think you are deserving of some form of payment?
Would you pay the doctor who just accidentally amputated your good leg?
Its Ok, don't click accept if you haven't been helped
I thought you said the Tv wouldn't turn on originally and after installing the fuse it worked, but had some other issue, if your still getting 6 blinks and a dead Tv I guess its exactly like it was at the start, I read posts again to make sure I'm not crazy, you said above that now the picture comes on . Hey thats different than your first post?
I certainly don't want to get paid for making the TV worse (example amputated the wrong leg) . Not reasonable comparison in my opinion.
I certainly want to to be happy with the service Just Answer provides, but
I think I don't want to continue helping you anymore.
So at this point.
I would suggest posting question for another tech to answer.
Or I can OPT out to allow other techs to take over this back and forth dialog
(other techs will be more eager to answer if they can see .
Best of luck with the Tv !
I guess the actual problem is that you weren't aware of what I reported as a problem. It is quite simple. One day I turned on the set and I saw the red light flashing and no picture. I found that by pressing the ON button four times, the light eventually went green and picture came on. Whenit happened again the next day I began to look into what the lights meant. I called Sony and did numerous internet searches.
In the meantime, the TV continued to deteriorate showing the red flashes each day until I was pressing tjhe ON button as many as 100 times before getting a picture
I narrowed it down to being the fuse or the G1 board and then I found this site and eventually you, along with other sources I found seemed certain it was the fuse.
The TV was unplugged and unused for at least a month when I finally got the fuse and installed it. When I turned the set on, the red light flashed several times erratically and I clicked the ON button and got a picture. I then thought the problem was solved, but the next day when I turned the set on, I got the same 6 red flashes that I saw when the problem first began.
I feel certain that the number of times I have to hit the ON button to get a picture will begin to increase every few days until there is no picture at all again which is exactly how the problem first appeared.
What I want to do now is to remove the new fuse and replug in the old one to see if I get the red flashes or nothing at all. If you remember, you suggested either replacing the old fuse or just jumping it to see if I get a picture and that if not, we would take it to the next step. Well I replaced the fuse and still have the same problem I had when this all started.
What I meant to say was that other techs will answer questions with the hope of being paid before the ones where they can see they will probably never get paid no matter how much help they provide.
Here on JA some repeat customers are very satisfied with the expert help they receive.
Even if the help suggests its best to call a technician or buy a new TV.
I think you should call a technician at this point, the G1 board is not easy to replace and I am not sure that is what is wrong.
I feel as though I have reached a point where I can not help you anymore than I already have.
Best of luck with the TV.
Have a nice holiday season!
I see Eric has opted out and there is A LOT of conversation above so I would like to take a step back for a minute and attempt to summarize where you are at now to see if we can come to a resolution of this problem.
I believe these to be the facts:
Your set intermittently will not come on.
Your set intermittently gives a 6 blink error code.
Your set intermittently gives a 7 blinks error code as well.
You have replaced the thermal fuse and the above error codes still persistent.
Your set works eventually and when it is on it stays on and everything is perfectly fine.
Are the above statements all true?
Tim, you are the expert I originally dealt with and whom I wanted to continue with but we were having a problem because neither of us were being notified when the other posted a response. It seems to be the same now because I only spotted your 12/3 response as I was reviewing Eric's replies. I never knew it was here.
The problem is a daily event, not intermittent. I get 6 red flashes that just keep repeating and by pressing the ON button each time the red appears, I eventually get a picture. It deteriorates daily and within a week or two of installing the new thermal fuse I was pressing the ON button well over 100 times to get a picture.
I have now purchased a new Sony Bravia 52XBR9, but I would still like to fix the old one to give to a friend or relative. I was reviewing this string as I was going to ask for instructions on installing a G1 power board and where to get the best price on one.
Have you replaced the G board or tested any voltages on the G board?
Finally they have notified me of your response here Tim. Actually, when you and I lost touch with each other we were discussing what the problem might be. Since then, I have replaced the thermal fuse and that did not work. I plan to test the original fuse to be certain that was not the problem.
As for the G1 board, I thought that was the problem from the beginning because of a phone conversation with a Sony technician. He was beating around the bush when I just asked him straight out, "The red flashes are meant to let me know what the problem is, so why can't you just tell me?" He then said it was most likely the G1 board.
That is my total knowledge of G1 boards. As for my testing or replacing the board, I don't even know where it is. I replaced the lamp about a year ago and I have dug into the sets innards far enough to replace the thermal fuse, but no further. I am here with ohmmeter in hand waiting for further instructions.
Ok, the G1 board is the power supply for the set, so on the left hand side of the tv you will see a circuit board standing on end, this is the G1 board, the power cord also plugs into a very small circuit board which is plugged into this board, so if you follow the power board through the small one, this one will be next in line. What you would need to do is check it for the 17 volt line first off. Find connector CH1605 on this board and use pin 1,2,5, or 6 as ground, then check pin 7 or 8 for 17v DC. Let me know what you find.
I have bought a new TV, but I would still like to repair this one. The TV is now I a friends Co-Op on another floorwho is away for the winter.. I took the back off again today and I first checked the original thermal fuse and as I expected, it was not defective at all.
What I think was the G1 board was on almost the extreme left whel looking at the back of the set and fairly well exposed and easy to get at but removing it may be another story.
Anyway, I tried to use his computer to read your instructions only to find his internetservice was shut down. When I returned to my Co-Op, I was a bit confused. Do you want me to check for continuity with an ohmmeter or for voltages with the TV on, because I am not sure the TV will come on at all.
In either event, while I feel I will be able to locate the connectors and pins you directed me to, I added a number/letter grid to the G1 board photo below. Can you tell me which letter and number intersect nearest to the connector?
I am assuming that the connector that I put the red square around is CH1605. If you look at the board it should have labels at least a 1 on one of the sides of the connector this is labeling pin 1.
What you need to do is put your black lead on pin 1 and your red lead on pin 7 or 8. Then somehow turn the tv on or have someone else turn the tv on while you are watching for the reading.
You will need to have your meter set on DC voltage.
Let me know what you find.
Remember that the last time I turned the set on, I had to press the ON button over 100times.
With that in mind, I am guessing that you are not interested in any reading when the set is actually on and showing a picture, but what the readings are when the ON button is pressed.
In other words, the voltage reading that shows in the time when the green flashes go to red flashes. Is that correct?
Yes this is correct...
I actually want to know what it is when its plugged in but power button has not been pressed.
I want to know what it does as soon as the power button is pressed...
I may have reached a dead end here. I have located the CH1605 connector, but the G1board is in the orientation seen in the photo below with the CH1605 being closest to the front of the set.
Although I could actually see the CH1605, I could not get close enough to even see the pin label never mind be able to place the leads on them. I removed the front cover from the set also and noticed what appeared to be a removable panel that is right near the G1 board.
Do you know if I can remove this panel and get to the G1 Board from the front?
Ok when you have the back off the tv, on the left hand side there are a bunch of circuit boards clumped together, this whole assembly will side out the back of the tv a little so you can take the readings.
If you can send me a picture of the back of the tv with the back cover off I will try and illustrate what I need you to do.
I think I misread your instructions and I forgot to bring my camera when I went to the other Co-0p where the TV is.
I tried to pull out the G1 board, but it is located behind the rear panel where all the composite inputs are. I tried moving that whole assembly but it did not move. Now that I read your instruction again, I think you meant that the bunch of circuit boards to the left of the G1 board will slide out of the way so I can get to the G1 board to check the voltages. Am I right about that?
Tim, it looks like you are not getting notified of my replies again. Everything is changed now. As I tried to tell Eric from the beginning, the problem was never with the thermal fuse. I rechecked both fuses, the new one and the old one and both are good. I believe my unit was made before the units with the faulty fuses were.
Anyway, I have now removed the entire assembly (G1 board and the smaller circuit boards) from the back of the TV and have taken the G! board out altogether.
Before doing so, I got 17v readings with leads on pin 1 and on pin 7 and then pin 8. I may have done something wrong, but with the leads on pin 1 and pin 7 as the TV was turned on, I didn't get any reading at all. I don't know what that means because you didn't mention what to expect when making that check.
I have just ordered a replacement G1 board from Sony and will install it upon receiving it.
Your question just popped up on my list now 10 days after your last post, have you recieved the G1 board yet?
Yes, I received the board on Friday and will install it tonight if I get a chance or tomorrow. I was never able to get the cluster of circuit boards to budge, but there was just one tiny screw left that was on a small slide bar almost dead center on the rear of the panel with all the cable inputs.
I decided to remove that screw and slide the slide bar and when I did, the entire circuit board assembly including the G1 slid right out of the TV where I easily removed the G1 board.
You told me I should get 17 volt readings with the TV off and I did get that. You didn't tell me what reading I should look for just as the TV was turned on, but I wasn't getting any at all. After installing the G1 board, what should I be looking for as the TV is turned on?
I have already bought and am now watching a new Sony Bravia KDL-52XBR9, but if I get the old one up and running again, I will probably go back to that. Before buying the Bravia, I compared features on about a dozen TV's looking for the best refresh rate, contrast ratio, color depth, resolution, and the number of HDMI and other inputs.
I made the mistake of just assuming it would have what I deem to be the greatest improvement in TV since color, split screen viewing. It does not, and I see that almost all TV's no longer have that feature.and that is puzzling. It can't be to save on the price of a second tuner, Tivo sells an entire HD unit with dual tuners for only $300.
Yes you should be looking for the 17V 3 different times...first check it when it is plugged in, then check it when you hit the power button, lastly check it when the tv shuts off.
I installed the G1 board yesterday and the TV seems to be working perfect now with the original thermal fuse in place. I don't know why we weren't always notified when we posted new replies, but I wish I hadn't lost touch with you when this first happened in July.
Would have eliminated the fuse problem and fixed it right away with the G! and would not have bought another TV. Thanks Tim. I am going to send this reply and then send the payment because I don't know if I can do both at once.
Tim, after accepting your answers, the feedback page showed the payment going to Eric who insisted it was the thermal fuse that is currently still working perfectly in the now fixed TV.
I just sent an e-mail to support to correct this.
I am glad you got it working, please let me know if you need anything further.
Tim, I misread the last e-mail I got from Just Answer. I thought it said they had redirected the payment from Eric to you but when I came here to ask you a question, I see the money is still in my account. I just ran through the entire string and the only places I have found icons to accept an answer and pay are connected to notes from Eric.
I don't know how to send your payment to you. I am going to contact Just Answer again and see if they can help, but I have a quick question in the meantime. During the entire process of installing the new G1 board, all but two screws I removed were the large ones that hold the back panel of the TV and the metal plates inside the TV in place.
The other two are pictured in the top image below. I thought they were from the plate in the 2nd image, but if so, they were not holding anything in place. I thought they had been in left and right holes seen between the two ground wires, but they don't fit there. I had a friend with me one day and I don't know if he removed them while I wewnt to get a tool.
They look like the small screws used to hold wires in place, but I only remember removing the three ground wires and two or three plugs from the cluster of circuit boards. I don't remember taking out any screws that were holding wires in place.
Do you have an idea about where these screws belong?