Please answer a few questions for me:
- What is the model number of your set? it will be located on a sticker on the back of the set
- did the TV "act up" in any ways prior to this problem ( AKA: bad picture, washed out colors etc)
Let me know..
Self Diagnostics The power on LED provides an indication of the sets operation, and the possible cause of a malfunction. Error Code Operational Check To activate the diagnostic mode,With the TV off, press the front panel INPUT and MENU (or device)buttons at the same time while holding for 5 seconds. The power LED will flash denoting a two digit Error Code (or no error). The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the remote. The first group of flashes indicates the first digit .The flashing will then pause for approximately 1/2 second before the second digit is indicated. . Example: For Error Code 24 , the LED will flash 2 times, pause, and then flash 4 times. Error Codes 12 = No error has occurred. 21 = X-Ray protect circuit. 22 = Short protect circuit. 23 = Horizontal deflection failure. 24 = Vertical deflection failure. the above information was paraphrased from a Mitsubishi service manual
I followed your directions and got a 22 code - what does that mean?
Do you have any repair experience? Can you Solder and Desolder components?
If not, do you know anyone that can has these skills and can assist you?
Code 22 - really, this is a good thing. This means you have had a convergence I.C. failure! If you are familiar with electronics, and can solder and desolder components, I can talk you completely through the repair...It will cost less than $100.00 If you have no electronics repair experience, I would suggest finding a technician in your area to do the job, and the typical price for this is around $200 - $300 dollars, but it is a job that can be done "in home" Let me know if you want to repair it yourself!
My best bud is an EE so he can help me solder a desolder components - I'd like to give it a shot - BTW I bought the 99 pg Mistubishi Service Manual for my TV so if you want to refer to that in giving me directions, you can - look forward to your guidance
IC801 and IC802 are the convergence IC's that need to be removed and changed. You can purchase the (2) STK392-570's Here:
You will also need to order (2) 5 amp PICO fuses, and possibly some convergence resistors. The Resistors I am talking about are the greyish blue ones in front of the Convergence IC's - they may have the value printed on them, but if not you can look up the value by component location in your service manual. All the parts you might need can be purchased through the link I posted..
You will also need to get some Heat transfer paste and solder wick from radio shack.
Remove the center board (the one that has the large Heatsinke and the convergence IC's - all the plugs are already marked according to the sockets, so there is no worries there- unhook the jumper connectors that hook on either side of the center board - you should be able to pull the center board out now, once you remove all the screws holding it to the plastic frame.
Remove the 2 convergence IC's - you will need to use a solder sucker or solder wick to desolder them, you may have to pry the convergence IC a bit to make it release from the heatsink.
Look for and check the blue/grey Resistors in front of the IC's - make sure that they are all within specifications (marked on resistor) aka: 3.9 ohm..
Now, you will need to check your service manual and find the 2 Pico Fuses that power the convergence IC's - check them , more than likely one or both blew when the convergence ICs failed.
Once you change out the components, you will need to go into the convergence menu and perform a coarse convergence...You should be set from there!
If you need any more help, please let me know!
I finally got the chassis removed and I think I found the problem area on the center circuit board - however, ther area I identified has some burn marks and a clear oily substance - can I email you a picture so you can see if this is something over my head or even worth trying to repair? my email is XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX - - i checked above the spot where the oil was deposited and didn't find anything that was leaking or ruptured - - do any of the components on the board ever rupture to spill out oily substances?
Ohhh, no.... This isnt good.
If you have found a clear oily substance, then that means one of the CRT's has a broken seal, and has leaked onto the main board...
If you look carefully at the crt's you will see one of them probably has a trace of coolant running down it... when the seal goes bad it will leak down onto the board and cause all kinds of trouble, because the coolant is conductive, and corrosive to the electronics.
At this point, I would suggest cleaning the board as well as possible with 100% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, then let it dry completely. You may want to send the board in to have it refurbished - theres no teling what the coolant has done to the many components on that board...if so, i would recommend www.ptscorp.com/television to have the board refurb'd- You will also need to replace the coolant and seal in whichever CRT is leaking - coolant is VITAL to the crt's-
Honestly however, knowing there is a coolant leak that has gotten to the board, I would have to say it may be time to scrap the TV. It is really dependent on your experience.. Someone like me could possibly salvage the tv if it was here in front of them, but this is honestly going to be quite a difficult repair for someone that doesnt have the supplies on hand and the experience...However, If you want to service the CRT and send your board to PTS, i will still be here if you need me- The set IS still salvageable, but it will cost money and time...
can you please give me a ballpark figure for the repair and how much longer I can expect the set to last? I need some ammo to convince my wife to let this TV go and get another one