How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Ron Your Own Question
Ron
Ron, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Transmissions
Satisfied Customers: 33423
Experience:  35 years working on Ford, Lincolns and Mercs.
7276279
Type Your Transmissions Question Here...
Ron is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

I have a 1996 I30, 218k, with intermittent hesitation and

Customer Question

I have a 1996 I30 , 218k, with intermittent hesitation and stalling... and some other issues. Sometimes the car seem to run perfectly, and sometimes it is just flat out dying. When it is dying it hesitates badly under acceleration, unless it's wide open
and high RPM's. With normal acceleration it bucks badly. Then as I brake to a stop, it flicks between 500 - 1200 RPM briefly and dies. It will turn right over and start immediately, but usually dies again quickly. If I let it sit for a while (15+ minutes)
and start it again it usually starts up just fine and runs flawlessly, possibly for hours or a day or two, then goes back into hesitating and dying. It seems to either run 100% or 0% - no in between, except for a very occasional stutter or two. On top of that,
when I step on the brake, the radio and climate control lights go out - both systems still work completely (I can change temp and fan on the climate and change stations and volume on the radio, etc.) but the LED's are off while the foot brake is on. And, when
I turn off the car and remove the key then open the door, the door chime beeps as if the key was in or the lights were on. This started about four weeks ago, but I've been traveling for about 2 weeks, so it has been happening on and off for about two weeks
of actual use. The MIL has only come on 2-3 times. I have a simple code reader and it has shown P100 each time. I have cleaned the MAF, which seems a likely culprit. According to some sites I read, the EGR valve could also be a problem. I reached the under
side of it to see if the diaphragm would move with pressure from my fingers and it did, and made kind of a "boing" noise and seemed to spring upwards rather than a gentle up/down movement as I expected, but what do I know? Apart from pulling the codes, I had
AZ test the charging system and that came up just fine - battery, alternator and starter. The first two have been replaced within the last 18 months. Plugs and knock sensor are less than 1 year old. And the car is red, lest I miss any details. :-) I love the
car, but I know it needs to go. We are saving for a new one, but I need a few more months. That's what they all say, right? Thanks!
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Transmissions
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Also, I just tested the MAF sensor by checking the voltage on all the leads. I had 11.5 on the hot lead, 10.48 on the ground and -0.02 on the center wire. That voltage did not fluctuate at all when I opened the throttle. I am thinking MAF, but want an expert opinion before I spend the $150-200. Thanks
Expert:  Ron replied 1 year ago.

Hello, my name is ***** ***** I am a professional here at Just Answer. I have noticed that your question was not getting a response and thought I would see if you still need help with this.I apologize for the delay and I hope I can still assist you with this here.

The code P0100 in most cases is set due to one of the following and not a bad MAF sensor,

  • Engine Control Module (ECM)
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Wiring
  • Ground

    In order to determine which is failing you are going to need to do some testing, I have enclosed the steps to do so in the link below, copy and paste the lin to your browser to open and view them.

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/P0100%20Oct%2017.pdf
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ron,I wanted to get this car back on the road, so I went ahead and ordered and MAF since I hadn't heard from anyone on JA. Bummer, that didn't help, as you figured.I am pretty comfy with most car systems, and used to be a digital computer technician, so I am familiar with electricity and circuity. I have not messed with automotive circuitry much, however.A couple questions on your response.
What's a POS count?
I don't see that you are an Infiniti/Nissan specialist, but I have having a terrible time getting this unit out. Two screws are almost unreachable. Any tips?I want to pull it out and see if I can match it to a used unit from a salvage yard. They're not too expensive, if I can find a match. Any tips / hazards for this procedure? I know it is reisky, but I don;t want to put any more omney into this care than necessary. I'm saving for a replacement.Thanks!
Dave
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I ordered an ECU/ECM/PCU for the car. Let's hope that's it.Thanks

Related Transmissions Questions