Have Toyota Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello, and thanks for your question. My name is ***** ***** I will do all I can to help.
Do you happen to know what code or codes are stored in the ECM by chance?
I follow you, The ECM is the Engine Control Module, or the Engine Computer. The check engine light can come on for literally 100's of reasons. Common thing to look at, is the gas cap O ring, if the gas cap O ring is damaged, or has cracks in it or it is missing, It will set the check engine light off as it has to be a sealed system. So you want to check that, Also, look at the filler neck and see if there are any big dents and dings where the O ring is supposed to seal.
Do you have a local auto parts store in your area such as an Advance Auto Zone or Oreilly's?
Alright, If you can pull into one of those, they will scan the vehicle and tell you what code is stored. Is the vehicle still running fine? or does it run poorly?
I follow you, did they say what was wrong with it? and what parts it would need to fix it by chance?
I follow you, 900$ for a tune up is a lot. You can get 4 spark plugs for that engine for about 20$ and put them in yourself if you have a 5/8 spark plug socket. I can't be sure what all else he was considering for the 900$ but it sounds like you should definitely get another estimate on that. You can try this to get it to pass, disconnect the positive and negative battery cables for about 30 minutes, then hook them back up to the battery and see if the check engine light is out. It may not be if it is a hard fault. But it may work long enough for you to get it to the inspection station .
If you can drive the vehicle 15 or 20 minutes without the light returning after the battery cable has been taken off, then it should pass emissions inspection.
If it is misfiring however, You would have to tune it up with new plugs, for it to pass most likely. Those spark plugs are easy to get to as they are right on top of the engine underneath the coil packs which sit just above the spark plug.
Do you know what he called this 549$ part that is in question?
I follow you, It really does depend on what code is stored and what parts it needs to pass inspection.The brake noise could be the pads, But if it's only on wet surfaces, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Humidity can make brakes squeal or howl more so than when they are dry. It is a good possibility that if he doesn't hear it when it's dry, then it's just the moisture that gets on the pads and makes them a bit more noisey.
Absolutely, What other questions do you have, and just fyi, I would really get another opinion then this mechanic that said it needed 900$ worth of work to pass inspection.
Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thank you!
If you can look at the brake pads through the wheels and there is plenty of pad material left where it hits the brake rotor, then I wouldn't worry about it, but if the pads are getting close to the rotor, (less than 4 millimeters of pad left) then I would go ahead and replace the pads that are worn.
Alright, sounds good.
Were you able to get the codes read? if so, let me know what they are and I can help some more. Thanks.