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Chris (aka-Moose)
Chris (aka-Moose), Auto Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 814
Experience:  16 years of experience
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I have an 03 toyo tundra that I replaced the motor and now

Customer Question

I have an 03 toyo tundra that I replaced the motor and now I'm unable to get it running on its own. It would fire up and then would sputter out anywhere from 5-15 seconds later. If I use the throttle I was able to keep it running. I've checked all my connections and everything is good. Then just now I go out to mess with it some more and I started it a few times then went to start again and I get a buzzing and clicking noise coming from the fuel pump relay fuse in the fuse box in the engine compartment and now our won't even try to start. What is my problem.
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

Hi Im David thanks for visiting the site. take another relay from the fuse box that is the same and swap it out. see if it does the same thing.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
There isn't another one that is the same. There are 2 almost like it but they are missing one of the pins the problematic one has. I added a picture the one in the right is the problem one.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok. well i would suggest getting another one to see if it does the same thing

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Update: I checked the f/pump fuse and it appears that it is faulty. Used an ohm meter and followed the diagnostic test from the tsm from toyota. Also checked c/opn and efi and seems they are all no good. Going to go get some new ones now and will let you know shortly the outcome to this issue.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

that would do it. but if the fuse is bad, its weird that it would work intermittently i.e. buzzing etc...

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It would start as soon as I tried to start. It's weird brayer it was starting but would sputter and die if I didn't use the throttle
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

did the fuse look a bit melted?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Not at all
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
As you can see from the pic
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

oh, you are talking a the relay, not a fuse.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It's in the fuse box under the hood
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Relay yes.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok so it's apparently not the relay. Replaced it and there is still the annoying buzzing
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok, i need to pull a print to see where that relay is getting power from

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok kinda curious why when I take the key out it continues till I pull the battery cable
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ill find out

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

what engine?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
2uz-fe v8 4.7L
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok thanks

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

heres a print

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

pull the circuit open relay and see it if quits buzzing. if not then pull the efi relay

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok so pulling those relays did nothing for the buzzing
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok. gimme a sec

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok next is finding that fuel pump resistor or disconnecting the electrical connector at the fuel pump

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
ok the resistor is right next to the fuse box fyi. unplugged it and still getting the same issue
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok,,,,

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok well we need to take the fuel pump out of the equation here. now i know there is the ground for the pump at the left kick panel area. you may want to look there to see if those wires are messed up, corroded or loose.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I looked behind the kick panel and everything looks intact
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok, time to access the fuel pump connector

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Still same result
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

holy crap. ok.... so you disconnected the fuel pump connector and its still buzzin........ damn.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

pull the efi #1 20 amp fuse

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Now it's not buzzing anymore. But still isn't turning over
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

it wont start with that fuse pulled. i just have to see where that fuse is getting power from

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok, pull the positive and negative battery terminals off, clean them up with sand paper or something even if they look clean already. clean the posts too. then follow the negative cable to where it connects to the block and pull it off and clean it. also if there are any other smaller grounds near the battery clean those up too.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok that worked. No more nose and it's now cranking. But won't stay running.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Btw all fuses and relays are in, and it's cranking with no steady idle.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

is it cranking and starting? or just cranking?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It's cranking and starting but won't stay running
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok. got a scan tool?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I do
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

see if it has any codes

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
No codes
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It seems like it's not firing on a cylinder or the timing is off. At low rpm or runs rough up to about 2000 then smooths out and purrs .
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

if timing was off or you had a misfire, you would have codes. and it would run rough throughout the rpm band

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok, clean the maf sensor, throttlebody plate, egr valve and idle air control valve. use brake parts cleaner or throttle body cleaner

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok did all that and started it up. Was idle rough just add it was but let it warm up and then it threw 22 codes all relating to misfire cylinder 12345678 and too lean a/f lean,bank 1 and bank 2
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

let all the components dry up. and make sure you reconnected everything and used new gaskets.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
i did. new gaskets galore since i was swapping parts, and everything was connected with the motor and trans out of the vehicle.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
although it sounds like there is an exhaust leak somewhere
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

make sure you tightened everything back up. when you pulled them off to clean. make sure a gasket didnt seat wrong and make sure you didnt forget and vacuum lines

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok went through everything and found a few loose bolts
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Otherwise everything looks to be in place.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I drove it up to the store and other then surging/lurching when I let go of the gas and let it idle forward, it seems to be ok. Although the check engine light is still on and will start to flash and is still had the misfire codes and the lean fuel
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

what are all the codes you are getting now?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
p0171
p0174
p0300
p0301
p0302
p0303
p0304
p0305
p0306
p0307
p0308Freeze Frame Information
Parameter Description Results
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0301
Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Open Loop
Calculated LOAD Value 23.92 %
Engine Coolant Temp 132.80 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 28.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 28.13 %
Engine RPM 867.75 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
Intake Air Temperature 96.80 °F
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
INNOVA says it is cylinder 1 misfire.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

does the check engine light come on and stay on when you turn the key to the run position?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok, man. with all of those codes, you really have no choice but to do a compression test of all the cylinders

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Ok
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

i hope its not the engine my friend

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

was it a used, reman, or new engine?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Used
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

warranty?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
No ��
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

oh brother. ok well maybe the compression will be ok.

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

any update?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
did the compression test and it was about 135 lbs on each cylinder.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

how many miles on the new used engine?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
160k
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

so 135 psi isnt all that bad.......

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

clear your codes. pull the connector off the maf sensor. tell me how it runs

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It runs about the same. It did throw a code P0113 intake air temp circuit high input
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Could it be that the cams are off by one revolution? Basically if I took the belt of and advanced them both one full revolution and then put the belt back on
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

did you replace the timing belt?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
water pump, tensioner and the two pulleys
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Or the crank is off one tooth maybe
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

at least one tooth brother. with all them codes.... time to re time it i would say

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I did make sure to not move any of them much but to get the belt in and snug it could have happened.
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

anytime the belt is put on and its snug, when the tensioner is released you are at the most vulnerable point of them moving

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Damn that's a whole lotta work to move one tooth over. Lol live and learn right
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Right that's why it took several installs of the tensioner to get it wrong, well I thought it was right
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

well. you gotta look at it this way. if you didnt have 2000 codes, it could be something else.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Right I hear you. Well you gotta give me a bit to get back to you with the results on this task. Hopefully..... All gets right because honestly I'm tired of messing with this truck for at least a year.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
you agree with it being off a tooth?
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
As a place to start that is
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

absolutely

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

you need instructions?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Already did it once so the second time should be a lot easier I think
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I have the TSM
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

okey dokey

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Unless you know of some way to two snaps and a "twitch of the nose" way to get it done
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

my ex ole lady...she was a witch

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Bwahahahaa. That sucks. I'm sorry to hear that
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

let me know when you get er done

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Will do
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

ok

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