Toyota Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi Im David thanks for visiting the site. take another relay from the fuse box that is the same and swap it out. see if it does the same thing.
ok. well i would suggest getting another one to see if it does the same thing
that would do it. but if the fuse is bad, its weird that it would work intermittently i.e. buzzing etc...
did the fuse look a bit melted?
oh, you are talking a the relay, not a fuse.
ok, i need to pull a print to see where that relay is getting power from
ill find out
heres a print
pull the circuit open relay and see it if quits buzzing. if not then pull the efi relay
ok. gimme a sec
ok next is finding that fuel pump resistor or disconnecting the electrical connector at the fuel pump
ok well we need to take the fuel pump out of the equation here. now i know there is the ground for the pump at the left kick panel area. you may want to look there to see if those wires are messed up, corroded or loose.
ok, time to access the fuel pump connector
holy crap. ok.... so you disconnected the fuel pump connector and its still buzzin........ damn.
pull the efi #1 20 amp fuse
it wont start with that fuse pulled. i just have to see where that fuse is getting power from
ok, pull the positive and negative battery terminals off, clean them up with sand paper or something even if they look clean already. clean the posts too. then follow the negative cable to where it connects to the block and pull it off and clean it. also if there are any other smaller grounds near the battery clean those up too.
is it cranking and starting? or just cranking?
ok. got a scan tool?
see if it has any codes
if timing was off or you had a misfire, you would have codes. and it would run rough throughout the rpm band
ok, clean the maf sensor, throttlebody plate, egr valve and idle air control valve. use brake parts cleaner or throttle body cleaner
let all the components dry up. and make sure you reconnected everything and used new gaskets.
make sure you tightened everything back up. when you pulled them off to clean. make sure a gasket didnt seat wrong and make sure you didnt forget and vacuum lines
what are all the codes you are getting now?
does the check engine light come on and stay on when you turn the key to the run position?
ok, man. with all of those codes, you really have no choice but to do a compression test of all the cylinders
i hope its not the engine my friend
was it a used, reman, or new engine?
oh brother. ok well maybe the compression will be ok.
how many miles on the new used engine?
so 135 psi isnt all that bad.......
clear your codes. pull the connector off the maf sensor. tell me how it runs
did you replace the timing belt?
at least one tooth brother. with all them codes.... time to re time it i would say
anytime the belt is put on and its snug, when the tensioner is released you are at the most vulnerable point of them moving
well. you gotta look at it this way. if you didnt have 2000 codes, it could be something else.
you need instructions?
my ex ole lady...she was a witch
let me know when you get er done