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Hello. Usually when a car runs good in open loop (cold) and bad in closed loop (warmed up), it's a bad oxygen sensor.
Hello and welcome to just answer and allowing me to assist you. sorry about your problems , your year Camry doesn't have OBD 11 it has OBD1 I will give you a link how to pull the codes for that , you can do this. it uses a break out box to retrieve codes but only shops have them. Here is the link to check for codes yourself. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/toyota/2.2L/retrieving-trouble-codes-1 do that and get back to me with what you find. What I'm suspecting is the air flow meter, that's the box near the air filter on the intake hose. Also check that hose fore tightness and cracks. I will also send some pics what to look for. I s yours a 6 or 4 cylinder?
I know it's OBDI and know how to pull codes. There are not any codes. In all of my years I have never seen a mass air flow problem cause such horrible running conditions, especially when only the vehicle is in closed loop.
Well I have replaced many and there is a thermister built in to it for different temps to enriches fuel. it's sort of a pre tps mass air flow sensor combination. it's more mechanical then electronic and the contact fingers inside loose contact and some times the thermistor acts up. Did you put a vacuum gauge on it to check for manifold vacuum?The only other thing I can think of that was a common problem was the distributor. there were two problems within the distributor we ran into ,(1) oil getting into the inside of it from a bad shaft seal, (2) check picup air gap, (3)look at the coil where it is the closest point to the lobs on the shaft , we have seen many blow the spark out there to the lobs on the shaft and you will notice that by a small dark burnt spot on the center of the coil. Now, a long-shot guess. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor may be going bad. Computers work on micro and milliseconds, engines and humans don't. If the ECT is sending bad information to the computer, even if just for a fraction of a second, the computer could be reacting oddly. Sometimes what can happen is the sensor can tell the computer the coolant temperature is below zero degrees. The computer is programmed to respond to that condition by cutting out the ignition. That could cause both symptoms of the RPM dropping to zero and the stall. You could take a chance on that and replace the ECT sensor, they aren't difficult or expensive. Otherwise, a scan tool and oscilloscope to check sensor and computer data may ultimately be the only way to track this one down. Hope this helps you with your problem and if you require further assistance I'll be happy to do so. Please rate my answer, thank you and good luck.