this may help you if you still have problems getting all the air out doing that way.
The Factory Procedure
With these systems, the correct way to bleed the ENTIRE vehicle is to employ a Dealer service tool (it usually looks like a Nintendo GameBoy) that allows you to cycle the ABS valves and/or the pump motor WHILE you are bleeding the brakes. In effect, this allows you to open the hidden passages in order to purge the fluid completely. Fresh fluid is then drawn into the ABS unit, and the old stuff can be flushed away with the rest of the mess. Nothing to it.
The end result takes a little more time than a conventional bleed, and requires you use a little more fluid, but looks like this:
Step 1 - Manually bleed RR, LR, RF, LF brakes
Step 2 - Install service tool and cycle all valves and/or pumps
Step 3 - Manually bleed RR, LR, RF, and LF brakes again
You end up having bled the system twice, but this is necessary to ensure that fresh fluid - and NOT used fluid - is drawn into the unit the next time that the ABS valves (and/or pump) are cycled.
The last way if you don't have the service tool or can't get one is to drive it in an area that you can stomp on the brakes hard enough to activate the abs , this will purge out any air then you have to still bleed each caliper as mentioned. hope this gives you enough fuel to do your job.try the gravity bleed first we have had success with that most of the time.