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Hi Im David, sorry for your problems.......p0351 is telling you that the ignition coil for the number one spark plug or cylinder.
ok, but you didnt state that thats what you needed. sorry. give me a few and i will send instructions.
this is just a general overview of what you'll be doing. i am still in the process of obtaining a wiring print for you.....
Is the engine misfiring presently? If not, the problem is likely intermittent. Try wiggle testing the wiring at the #1 coil and along the wiring harness to the PCM. If manipulating the wiring causes the misfire to surface, repair the wiring problem. Check for poor connection at the coil connector. Verify the harness isn't misrouted or chafing on anything. Repair as necessary If the engine is misfiring presently, stop the engine and disconnect the #1 coil wiring connector. Then start the engine and check for a driver signal to the #1 coil. Using a scope will give you a visual pattern to observe, but since most people don't have access to one there's an easier way. Use a Voltmeter in AC Hertz scale and see if there's a Hz reading of between 5 and 20 or so that indicates the driver is working. If there is a Hertz signal, then replace the #1 ignition coil. It's likely bad. If you don't detect any frequency signal from the PCM on the ignition coil driver circuit indicating the PCM is grounding/ungrounding the circuit (or there is no visible pattern on the scope if you have one) then leave the coil disconnected and check for DC voltage on the driver circuit at the ignition coil connector. If there is any significant voltage on that wire then there is a short to voltage somewhere. Find the short and repair it. If there is no voltage on the driver circuit, then turn the ignition off. Disconnect the PCM connector and check the continuity of the driver between the PCM and the coil. If there is no continuity repair the open or short to ground in the circuit. If continuity is present, then check for resistance between ground and the ignition coil connector. There should be infinite resistance. If there isn't, repair the short to ground in the coil driver circuit NOTE: If the ignition coil driver signal wire is not open or shorted to voltage or ground and there is no trigger signal to the coil then suspect a faulty PCM coil driver. Also keep in mind that if the PCM driver is at fault, there may be a wiring problem that caused the PCM failure. It's a good idea to do the above check after PCM replacement to verify there won't be a repeat failure. If you find that the engine isn't misfiring, the coil is being triggered properly but P0351 is continually being reset, there is the possibility that the PCM coil monitoring system may be faulty.
is that a 2.7 or a 3.5?
oh brother......how long had it been sitting?
critters love the taste of wiring insulation. it taste sweet to them...seen it a thousand times..... im still lokking for the correct print. there are so many in my stash.....thanks for your patience
heres the cylinder location in the meantime
you said b30? pin 106?
ok, sorry, had to get some sleep. instructions and diagrams on the way
you have a 2GR-FE engine. it is the same engine from 2006-present.
1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL2. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT3. REMOVE FRONT WIPER ARM HEAD CAP See: Wiper and Washer Systems/Wiper Motor/Service and Repair/Front Wiper Motor/Removal4. REMOVE FRONT WIPER ARM RH See: Wiper and Washer Systems/Wiper Motor/Service and Repair/Front Wiper Motor/Removal5. REMOVE FRONT WIPER ARM LH See: Wiper and Washer Systems/Wiper Motor/Service and Repair/Front Wiper Motor/Removal6. REMOVE COWL TOP VENTILATOR LOUVER SUB-ASSEMBLY See: Wiper and Washer Systems/Wiper Motor/Service and Repair/Front
7. REMOVE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR AND LINK ASSEMBLY See: Wiper and Washer Systems/Wiper Motor/Service and Repair/Front
8. REMOVE NO. 1 COWL TOP TO COWL BRACE INNER See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Fuel Injector/Service
9. REMOVE COWL TOP PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY OUTER FRONT See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Fuel
Injector/Service and Repair/Removal
10. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE UNDER COVER11. REMOVE V-BANK COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY See: Service and Repair/Removal and Replacement/Removal12. REMOVE AIR CLEANER CAP SUB-ASSEMBLY See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Fuel Injector/Service and
13. REMOVE INTAKE AIR SURGE TANK ASSEMBLY See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Fuel Injector/Service and
14. REMOVE NO. 1 SURGE TANK STAY
once you get to number one coil, you can disconnect the connector and put a noid light or test light in the connector and have someone crank the engine. if it lights, wiring to the ecm and ecm is good. the nyou can swap coils with another cylinder to see if it follows.
meant too say irs the same engine from 2009-present
still looking. dont worry about the pinout until you put a test light on the connector to see if the ecm is sending the signal.... if it is, then a pinout is not necessary.
The black probe of your multimeter must be grounded, preferably on your battery. Check PIN 1 and the value you are looking for is 12 volts at this wire. PIN 1 is the one shown above outlined red with a black circle.
The next wire you will be testing is the negative terminal of the ignition coil, this is PIN 3, or the PIN shown above that has a white ring around a gray circle.
There should be a ground signal here at this wire, and if you have both power and ground chances are your ignition coil is bad and must be replaced. Remove the bolt and then pull up on the Toyota Sienna ignition coil to replace the bad unit. Once you have the new part installed and properly tightened, use a scan tool to remove the check engine trouble code on your dashboard.
Looking at the Toyota Sienna connector from the front of the plug, you will be testing the red and black PIN 1 using your multimeter. Make sure when you are testing this Toyota Sienna harness with your multimeter, you do not force the probe into the plastic housing. Damage could occur which would only complicate your ignition coil issues, not solve them.
pin 3 to ground.... do you have a ground or power there while cranking?
also just pull the coil off and check for spark. stick a test light in the open end of the coil boot and go to ground with it and crank
yes, is that is whats happening?
the very easiest way to tell if the coil is bad is swapping it with the one next to it. life would be alot easier if you did that
and if the code changes to p0352 you know the coil is bad
actually if you swap it with the one next to it the code would be p0353
do you still need assistance?
hellow do you still require assistance?