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Do you have a scan tool to see if there any codes set in the engine control computer?
Can you rent or borrow a code reader? That needs to be the first place to start checking to see what's going on here.
Launch Creader VI is a great little scan tool and are $50 on Amazon. Very user friendly and plug and play with some live data options.
Ok post back here with the codes and I can give you a better diagnosis.
Yes it is under the left side of the dash.
Let me know how goes. You will not be disappointed is a great little scan tool for the money.
Do you have the specific code numbers that would have been on the display of the code reader? Do you have the VIN available?
Does the 10 amp OBD fuse have 12 V going to it or is it blown? The OL means that the scan tool is not communicating with the computer normally this is bad fit at the DLC three connector Or no power going to the connector. Pin 16 the black wire in that DLC three connector and should have 12 V. Something doesn't add up simply changing the spark plugs shouldn't keep this from running. Did you get all the connectors secured to the ignition coils? Did any of those harness is get pinched or broken?
No I have not seen this before with just a spark plug replacement. Can you post a picture of the scan tool? Did you go to DIAGNOSIS and then codes read all?
There should be a link on your end that allows you to attach photographs.
That makes a little more sense that means the scan tool is connecting but it found no fault codes in permanent or pending or current. I didn't quite understand what it was saying before. That being said that means there's no sensor malfunction or input problem from the igniter or the computer itself. Usually if you are no start condition when this happens it is either fuel pump related or some type of power feed to the computer or possibly the coils. Are you 100% certain that all the fuses are good? This is a longshot but trying remove both battery cables isolate them from the battery place a jumper wire across the two ends of the battery cables let us sit for about 10 minutes then remove the jumper wire install both battery cables and see if it will start up. Should not require any hard reset but it's always a good idea to try.
Yes isolated from the battery.
Not the battery posts!! The end of the cables together isolated from the battery.
I am out of options on this one. Short of it having jump time or one ignition coil hooked up incorrectly or simply failed pulling the system down I don't know what else to tell you to check or test this may be a hands-on type project. I will opt out so that if other technicians have run into this problem before they may be able to assist you.