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Amedee, Toyota Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 25433
Experience:  ASE certified tech advanced level specialist. Wisconsin certified emissions state inspector
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2005 scion tc manual, clicking noise when I turn the key

Customer Question

2005 scion tc manual, clicking noise when I turn the key won't start. I tested and had the battery charged at O'Reily and also had the starter tested at O'Reily they said both the starter and battery are good. In my fusebox under my hood I have 4 10, AMP fuses right net to each other that are not working and also 1, 7.5 AMP fuse I replaced the fuses with new ones but they are still not working. I also tested ( not sure what it is called ) but it is a white sucker with multiple covered wires 8 of them looks like mini fusible link, 3 of these wires does not light up when tested with a test light, but when i use the testligjt on the green the gree wire I hereva click sound on the left side of the vehicle near the alternator headlight area. And one more thing, the solenoid S wire I turn the ignition on the on position and ttested S wire with a testlight but the test light did not light up. I can send pics if u want on what am referring to
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

Hello and welcome! My name is ***** ***** I can assist you with your question. Does it click once or multiple times when trying to start the engine?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It clicks multiple times, rapid clicks one after the other
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
1, Here is a pic of the S wire I detached from the selenoid I tested it with a test light with ignition on the on position but the test light did not light up.2, also a pic of the inside of the fusebox, I have 4-10 AMP fuses right next to each other that is not working and a 7.5 AMP that's not working.3, look the fuse box pic there is a white plug-in with multiple colored wires plunged into it 8 to be exact, the thickest blue wire, the green wire and the gray wire the test light did not light up when I tested them
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I replaced the none working fuses 10 and 7.5 with new ones and tested them again with the test light but the test light still does not light up
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

The clicking multiple times is going to be low voltage or a bad connection. It could even be a bad ground as well. I want you to start by checking the MAIN fuses under the hood for voltage. If voltage is low, work your way back to the battery. If the battery is in fact good, then you could have a bad connection at or just after the battery.

Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

The power distribution center or fuse block could be an issue too. You will need to check for battery voltage going into it on the MAIN black wire. This wire comes directly from the battery. Oh, and keep in mind, there is also a fusible link after the battery before the fuse block. Here is a wiring diagram.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, am at home now and my car is stalled at work I like I mentioned I have tested and replaced 4, 10 amps and 1, 7.5 fuse ( but still not working. ) I will test all fuses and relays when I get a chance and the wire connections ground and fusible link you mentioned. Can I swap relays to pinpoint an issue? I will do the test u mentioned and let you know what I find
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
That diagram is kind of confusing are u sure its the right oneTake a look at the fuse box pic I sent u earlier see the thick black fusible link? Next to it The 1st 4 10 amp fuses is not getting any power and the 7.5 fuse hidden next to the purple relay as well and you see the white female plug with multiple clolored wires there is also no power to the blue, green and gray wire. I also sent u a pic of the S wire that plugs up into the selenoid i test with a test light with ignition on THE ON position but test light did not show that there was power
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

YES, thats the correct wiring diagram and YES, you can swap relays but I dont believe it will help. All your looking for in the diagram is the wire from the battery positive post to the fuse block. It's right on top of the diagram

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I haven't had the chance to work on my vehicle yet i will et u know
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

Sounds good! You can always rate my answer today for assisting you and reply back in the future at no further cost.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I replaced the negative battery terminal with a new one even though the old one was clean with no corotion and that stopped the clicking noise but vehicle would not start I then used a battery booster to boost the battery and it started but the engine shut off while I was driving the car. I boost it again it started and diconneted the positive battery and the engine shut off. AM TRYING to get my alternator off to take it to O'Reilly so they can test it for me but the bolt under the alternator is hard to get to. The serpentine belt was ( extremly ) hard to remove even with a coworker's help. I am very worried when it is time to put the belt back in place if it was so dificult /hard to remove. Any advice u can give me on that? Is there another bolt I suppose to lossen first before I pull the tensioner bolt forward to lossen the belt? And if u can send me a link to the correct belt diaphragm around the pulleys for putting belt back in place
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

Before going through all of this, check the battery voltage with the engine running. If it is 13.5 or higher, then the alternator is charging just fine.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The battery voltage was around 11.49 with engine running, and it always seem to be below 12volts the last 3 times I have tested it in the pass. But the last time I took it to be tested it tested good and was also had it charged and it took the charge. Can you read my last message I sent to u about the difficulty I had removing the serpentine belt? When is time to put the belt back, Beside the tensioner nut that has to be turn clockwise to compress the belt, is there another nut/bolt that needs to be loosen first
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Expert:  Amedee replied 1 year ago.

I think it would be best to speak on the phone.