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Toyota Service
Toyota Service, Toyota Expert
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4599
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I seem to be having an electrical issue with my 1999 toyota

Customer Question

hello,
I seem to be having an electrical issue with my 1999 toyota 4runner sr5.
I recently purchased this vehicle and it seemed to have had no major electrical issues. All door locks, windows, horns, bells and whistles worked flawlessly. However, one dreary maryland morning, everything seemed to work at first but then started to fail.
I'm not sure if its related but a few minutes after i turned my fog lights on, i started to smell over heated electrics. Following the smell i found that my power windows/locks were inoperable. When I parked the car at a local park and ride to commute with a coworker of mine, i noticed that the interior lights seemed to be a bit dim. When returning to the toyota, it started just fine. I drove the few miles back to the house and noticed two things. The speedometer was not registering along with the trip (a+b) and the abs light turned on. The power accessories also were still inoperable. Later on I went to check fuses to see if there was anything wrong with them. The 30A power fuse under the dash (near drivers left knee) was blown so i decided to replace that as a starting point (it hasn't blown again). All other fuses seem to be fine. Next, i used the onboard diagnostic port on the drivers side to retrieve codes to fix the abs light. When removing the "short pin" and jumping terminals the abs light only turned off. The abs light never flashed so i could not get a code. Once replacing the short pin and removing the jumper the abs light comes back on. Now, to get the car to run I have to jump it with the help of another car. While its running the car seems to drive fine, mechanically, but when i shut it off the battery drains and will not start. I have checked the voltage at the battery when running and am getting around 14v.
So in short:
--Whats wrong/ doesn't work
-power locks
-power windows
-horn
-abs light is on
-wont start without jump (dead battery)
--What does work
-Headlights
-tail light
-blinkers
-radio
-clock
-wipers
-interior lights
I work as a commercial electrician so i have a meter but commercial power is very different from the automotive field. I am stuck and need the help of a professional.
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 11 months ago.

Hello. Welcome to Just Answer. Please allow me to assist you. Since you are an electrician, and have a meter, let's do some basic electrical tests. Please to the following:

Take your meter and set it to 20 VDC. Remove the battery negative terminal from the battery post. Place the red lead of the meter to the battery post and the black lead to the disconnected battery terminal. Advise what this voltage is. If you see a negative voltage, swap the meter's leads on the battery and the cable.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Starting off, I have to apologize for such a late response. Something came up last weekend and I am just now able to get back into fixing this problem. I stated before that the battery drains itself when sitting, I have a few questions about the reading. I'd have to assume since the car has been sitting for a few days that the battery will be drained all the way down again. Is this a reading i should take before jumping the car, while its running, or after i jumped it allowed it to charge then shut it back off? I can do all three if that seems to help
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

This reading needs to be taken from a battery that has a substantial charge in it. After this test, we need to determine several things depending on the results.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok, I just got to where I have it parked and jump started it. I'm letting it run in hopes that it will charge the battery enough. Another thing that I have found that works is the fan. I don't think I included that in my orginal posting
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok thanks

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
As I'm sitting here I've noticed that the clock is slowly going dim. Temp gauge and tach seem to still be working. I don't know If that helps but I figured the more details the better
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

If the engine is running and the clock is slowly going dim the alternator is not producing sufficient voltage

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Well I just looked back over to it and it's as bright and vibrant as when I first purchased this thing...
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

If it is going dim then bright your alternator voltage regulator is bad. This will cause the battery to go dead too.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok. I just checked the voltage at the battery while it's still running and it's holding still at 14.4. Would checking the voltage when the light goes dim again sort of confirm that the regulator is bad?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Yes. The voltage should never drop. Measure again if the clock goes dim.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok I'll keep an eye on it and see if I can catch it happening again. Would low voltages to the computers explain why I'm having other issues within the cabin?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Absolutely. The vehicle's computer will do bizarre things if the voltage drops below 10 volts. The other items that you have listed are high draw items.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

You have to have sufficient voltage.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Would turning on some loads provoke the regulator to show some sort of measurable fluctuation to positively confirm that it's bad? or at this point, it's pretty obvious that there's something wrong with it. Also, since I've had it at idle for over 50 min now should I shut it off and administer the orginal test of removing the negative lead? Since I hadn't gotten a reading while the clock was dim I'm not sure how low the voltage dropped. Since I noticed the clock coming back on I've perodically checked the voltage and it's remained around 14.4.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

You could try that. The regulator may be reacting to a battery that has a bad cell in it... Cant say for sure.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I turned on the radio, interior lights, high beams and it only dropped .2v
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The regulator appears to be responding at this point. Let's shut off and do the battery cable test.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
With negative removed. Battery post to post 12.4 volts. Battery post to terminal 12.4 volts
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Set the meter to amps (smallest setting and work up if it is off the scale) and remeasure

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
It's a milwaukee cat 3 multimeter so it should self adjust.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Actually, thinking about it might not read dc. It's a clamp on meter for ac. I'll give it a try, but I might have to borrow one
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The clamp on will not work. Let's invest in a cheap 12 volt DC test light instead. That will work.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Yeah, I knew about the clamp on but wasn't sure if it had a dc setting for the test leads. I can run over to my dad's, I'm fairly positive he has an ammeter. Shouldn't take long
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok see if he has a test light too. it is actually better with the light.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok will do
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
He said he only has a meter. Should I go buy a light?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

A light works a lot better in this application

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok, sounds good. Let me run out to the store real quick
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok I'm back at the car. Do the same test but with the test light?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Yes. Disconnect the neg cable. Put the clamp of the light onto the post. Touch the pointy end to the terminal clamp

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Advise if the light glows

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok. Does the key need to be on?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

no Key off doors closes

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Key is off and it light comes on
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
On the tool I mean
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The light being on indicates a problem. Let's disconnect the bolt at the back of the alternator and detach the power wire. See if the light goes out

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

This test measures to see if there is something draining the battery.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
You mean the power lead on the alternator
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The big wire. Yes.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok the nut and wire are disconnected and the test light still turns on
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Ok. Remove the plug at the back of the alternator next.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Is there a special trick to removing it. I'm having a hard time seeing the release latches in the dark
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

It is very tight. There should be a rather stout tab that needs pressed to release the plug.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok just saw that on youtube
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Just one tab you have to press, right?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Yes

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Hey, i have to apologize again. I had to call it quits on the 4runner for tonight on the account that a) my phone battery was at 2% and b) the weather. I have the car parked in frederick md right now and we are experiencing snow and high winds. Where i can deal with cold hands i was too worried about my hood either releasing from the latch and coming down on me or flying back into the windshield. i Hope you understand. I hate to drag this out any longer for the sole fact that its unfair to you with all the help you're providing me and that i want to be able to drive the car again.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

It is no problem. I am here to help you. I know the weather is bad. I am not to far from you in PA. We will pick this up when you are ready. If the light goes out with the plug out, replace the alternator. And the battery.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Awesome, thanks for understanding.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

No problem.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok so after wrestling the plug out of the back of the alternator and having the power wire disconnected, the light still comes on when I clamp the clip to the terminal clamp and put the light device on the negative battery post
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Oh and before I started trying to get the plug out, again, I tested the voltage on the battery out of curiosity and it was at 12.2 volts
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Ok. The alternator is disconnected, and the light continues to glow brightly. You do have the negative terminal unhooked from the battery, and the light between the negative post and the disconnected terminal, correct? Need to make sure.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
that's exactly how it's set up right now
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Ok. Does the light glow real bright, just like if you touched across the battery?

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I can't tell any difference in light levels
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Excellent. Now. With the test lamp connected between the battery and the cable, remove the fuses form the fuse panel under the hood, one at a time. Advise if the light dims. If not, get inside the car and remove the fuses form the fuse panel one at a time. Advise if the light goes dim. Note: you must have all of the doors closed and the key off when you have the light being used for this test.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Do I need to replace the fuse before pulling the next one if the light doesn't go dim or shall I leave them all out until we find the culprit. Also, shall I start with the fuses with larger amperage or vise versa
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Start with the smaller fuses first.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Found a blown 15a fuse labeled mpx-b. I've been testing them as I pull them.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok any change in the light yet?

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
No not yet. I have all the fuses out of the fusebox under the hood except the 120a and the 60a. They're giving me trouble coming out, I assume they're just like normal plug and play fuses, right?
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
The plastic around the 120a fuse is moving separately from the metal strip so I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to replace that one
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The 120 amp fuse is bolted in. You cannot pull it out

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The 60 will be tight.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
at this point pull the 60 and rebolt the 120a when I get a new fuse?
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Or unbolt the 120 as well
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Just to be clear, the 60a isn't bolted in?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

I'm pretty sure it is not bolted in. Let's move to the panel inside the car before we do anything else with the 60

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok sounds good
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
All the fuses were removed one by one from the fuse block at the drivers left knee. There was no change in the light tool
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

let me ascertain that you are doing this right:

Disconnected Negative battery post <---- clip test light to post. Pointed end of testlight----> touch to disconnected negative battery terminal

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

And all the doors are closed, the key is off, and the dome light is off.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok this is what I have. I have the clip of the tool clipped to the disconnected negative battery cable. I am touching the probe to the negative battery post. Dome light off door closed key isn't in the ignition so it is off.
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
It is a brand new led probe from autozone if that makes a difference
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Ok. As long as the light is 'on', you have something that is drawing electricity. Assuming you still have the alternator disconnected, we are missing something somewhere. Let's pull any relays you can find under the hood and see if that causes the light to go off.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I still have the 120a alternator fuse and the 60a abs fuse still in the fuse box under the hood. Should I try to unbolt them before I move onto relays? I'm only asking because the abs light was on
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
The alternator is disconnected and I haven't replaced any of the fuses
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

let's disconnect the wire connector to the abs controller under the hood.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
If I'm right in what the abs controller is, it looks like there is 2 connectors and 5 lines connected to it. Which one should I disconnect
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

both connectors.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Both connectors off. Light still bright
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

pull relays one at a time. Feel any and see if they are warm. Pull any that are warm.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Phone battery is at 5% so I don't have much longer
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

when the light goes out you will have found the circuit that is draining the battery.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
None feel warm, but I also still have the battery disconnected. Are the relays sort of like icecube type fuses like where they just plug in or are they bolted like the bigger fuses
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

They plug in. They may be tight. no relays are bolted.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok well try that
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Relay labeled defog turned the light off.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

aha. Your rear defroster is stuck on.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

let me check something real fast for you

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
My rear defroster button in the cab was one of the things that wouldn't turn off. I'm just happy we're onto something
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

You have a problem in the tailgate ecu. Plug the relay back in. Reclip the light. When you have time tomorrow (it is getting rather dark)., pull the inside of the tailgate off. Then pull the metal tailgate panel off. You will see a square metal box. Unplug it. If the light goes out, you need a new box. It is called the "Back Door ECU". That is your problem.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

I KNEW we would get it.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

You are awesome to work with. I commend you on your patience. Most of my customers would be yelling and screaming at me by now....cause I did not fix it in 5 minutes for them.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Sounds good. Perfect as I'm at 1% battery. I'll let you know how it goes. Also should I put all fuses back?
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
plug in abs or leave it all out until done
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

yes put them all back and replug the ABS

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I'm back at this morning and I followed your instructions. I put all the fuses/relay back and replaced the one blow 15a mpx-b fuse. Plugged in the abs and disconnected the rear door ecu. All doors closed and ignition off. The problem is that the light was still on. I tried to recreate the same situation as we had on thursday night and the light stayed on. I did however notice that as I wiggle the fuse box around I can get the light to turn on and off. This mainly happens when I lift up on the passenger side of the fuse box. Could there be a problem in the fuse box itself? I'm kind of wondering where I should go from here.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

If you can make the light go on and off with pulling up on the fuse panel, that indicates that you have a loose connection inside the fuse panel. You need to repeat the remove the fuses process to determine where the affected circuit is. If the light is on, power is going someplace. Disconnect your radio if it is not factory.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
That was pretty much what I was doing while I was trying to recreate the situation on thursday. It didn't really come down to one fuse turning the light on or off but more so the movement of the entire fuse box itself. I did notice that it happened more when the bigger 50/40/30amp fused were being messes with but couldn't identify that one was more troublesome than the others. The car had an aftermarket radio in it when I bought it so I van start by removing it to see if that helps. The radio was one of the things still working so perhaps that is where the current draw is coming from.
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Removing the radio had no effect on the light tool
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Not that it's a bit cooler it seems like it's harder to get the light to flicker or go off. I'm not sure if that helps
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Now* that its a bit cooler
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I keep playing with these fuses to see which ones might be causing a problem. It's not set in stone but it seems like the big fuses and thre row of fuses in the middle cause the light to stay on when slightly wiggling the fuse box
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

You need to remove the big fuses and see if the light goes out,,,,except for the large ALT fuse. it is bolted in

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok. The abs and the alt fuse are the only two I haven't actually taken out. I'll try to get the abs out tomorrow morning and see if that changes anything.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
it seems that the large abs fuse is bolted in just like the alt fuse. Should I go ahead with dismantling the fuse box to get them disconnected?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

yes. Let's do the ABS fuse first

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I don't have a schematic so I'm not sure how is wired with it's components but would the abs module still draw current even if it's two connectors are disconnected. The reason I ask is because I disconnected them again yesterday and never connected them while trying to recreate the light going off when we pulled the defog relay
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Let's look under the hood on the corner on the passenger side by the firewall for a box. Inside this box is a relay. Pull this relay out and see what happens.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Does the box have two connectors coming out of the bottom
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok yeah I found the relay and unplugged it's two connectors. The light on the tool still stays on
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Just as before the only way I can get the tool to do anything is if
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I wiggle the fusebox. It's there any likelihood that some thing could be shorted together in the fuse box itself
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Sorry about the delay; had to work late. The test light indicates an electrical item is "on" ...Wiggling the fusebox is most likely causing power to not flow to wherever it is going. It is very unusual that removing all of the fuses and relays does not shut off the light. Someplace, somewhere, there is a draw. The only thing left to disconnect are the relays under the passenger side of the dash; behind the glovebox, and the computer. Perhaps you can do this next.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I understand, I've been working long hours recently too. I agree with you when you say it's odd that none of thoes fuses and relays did anything. I was so hopeful when we pulled the defog relay and the light went out. I'll try to get the last relays out when I get the chance. It's hard getting to and from work/class and have enough light to still mess with the thing when you don't have a car. The coming snow doesn't help much either.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

understood. I am hearing that the huge snowstorm might not be as huge after all...we can only hope.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

If you get time, Please get under the dash and unbolt the fuse panel. Once you have it unbolted, pull every wire connector off of it that is connected. You may bave an issue witht he fuse panel under the dash. If the light goes out then, which it probably will, we will see some light at the end of the tunnel

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok I'll try that. I'll be headed over there in just a little while
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok now that I reread that I'm a little confused. Is there a fuse panel behind the glove box or are you talking about the one on the drivers side and do I still need to disconnect the computer and pull thoes relays
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Driver side fuse panel. Disconnect all of the wire connectors and see if the test light goes out.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok cool. I have the glove box and air duct out incase we need to go in there
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

ok

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Once I have the 2 10mm bolts out I should be able to just pull the fuse box down?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

I think there are 3 bolts

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok I'll have to locate the third. I've been gently working it down until I can see the back side and working on getting at the connectors. One question about the connectors, are they all pretty much unique on how they plug in or should I be labeling them
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
On a side note, it looks like there is some charing or kind of burnt black plastic almost leaking out of a seam of the fusebox. Could it be possible that the problem is coming from inside the fusebox
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

All are unique. No need to label.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Just found a wire on a connector that has all its insulation burnt off. That to me looks like a good sign to finding our problem
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

YES!!! Sounds good.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Please advise of the following:

The color of the wire connector with the burnt wire

The number of pins that are inside this wire connector

The color of the burnt wire.

General location on the fuse panel.

I will see if I can determine where this wire comes from/goes to later this evening. I have to step out for the rest of the afternoon. .

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
That's cool, man. Thank you for everything thus far. I think we really have something here. If you look at the fuse box as it sits in the car, it is the third connector down in the center of the fuse box. The connector itself is white in color and has 8 pins. The wire itself is down to copper so I can't really say what color it was but in the connector starting on the passenger side as if still plugged into the fuse box. 1. Blue/black stripe 2. Blue/black stripe 3. Burnt conductor 4. Black/red stripe 5. Yellow/red stripe 6. Black/white stripe 7. Green/red stripe 8. Red/black stripe
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
The light didn't go off when I pulled that connector. I guess I'll try removing the rest of the connectors
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The connector under this one has 11 pins, and the one under the one with 11 pins has 9 pins, correct?

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I'm sorry, I made a mistake. It's below the flasher relay and one connector. The one below it, I'm counting 12 pins and the one below that, I'm counting 6
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
If I had to take a stab at what color it was I'd have to say white/black stripe.
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I have all connectors and relays out of it except this funKY little yellow one. The light still comes on, do I need to try and get this one out or is it probably shorted somewhere. Oh and anytime you gotta go it's cool. This thing will probably sit for a few days until I can shovel it out anyway
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Can you take 2 pictures and upload them? on of the box with wire connector disconnected, and another of the wire connector (with the burnt wire) showing the wires? Back-tracking a wire schematic is very hard, as your connector goes 8 different places. Two pictures would really help. Let's stop here until I sort out the colors and functions later tonight

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Oh, I didn't realize I could do that. Coming right up. I know how you feel looking at schematics
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Hey, I'm probably going to work on digging out the 4runner tomorrow. I'm not sure how far I'll get seeing as how the plow trucks just packed it in. I just wanted to make sure you got the 3 pictures I uploaded and wanted to know if we made any progress on what that wire is and where it might go.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

The burnt wire is for the ground of the POWER relay. Most likely, the POWER relay is faulty and was causing the relay contacts to arc. This will overheat the socket and melt the wire. The POWER relay is the one that is being pointed to by your thumb in the first picture. This will also cause an overcurrent in the 30 amp POWER fuse and cause it to blow. In this case, I would replace the power relay and make sure that the socket with the burnt wire is good and tight on the male pin on the back of the fuse panel. You have found the problem. The power relay controls all of your inoperative things.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Do I need to replace the wire that has the insulation burnt off? Is there any way I could test to make sure that it's not shorted out with another wire?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Since the wire is melted, I would not think there is a short. I am thinking the wire, where it plugs onto the panel was loose. I would make sure that the burnt wire makes good contact. If the wire was shorted, it would blow the fuse instantly. Pull the wire and the connector out of the terminal and test fit it to the fuse panel. If it is loose you need to tighten up the connector at the end of the wire. The insulate the wire and refit to the terminal

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok as soon as I can get into the car I'll make sure it has a good connection and replace the relay. Is there any possibility that there could be an internal problem with the fuse box? I remember while I was getting to the back if the fuse box, the side of the fusebox seemed like it had a burnt smell and some black plastic. I can try to get a pic of that too if you'd like
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Also, incase the connection looks good, where does the other end of the wire land? Perhaps I can also check to make sure that connection is tight just to make absolutely sure everything is going to work
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

It is a ground wire.

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Personally, If I could find one, I would replace the fuse panel.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Ok so here's where I am. Finally dug out the 4runner and took the dash apart. I traced the ground wire to a box that is on the drivers side dash just to the right of the steering wheel. The wire was burnt on both sides but seemed to get better as it went into the loom. I rerouted a wire and solder the ends back to the connectors on either side. The interior fuse panel is out of the car and from further inspection it is inrepairable. I have a new one but before I put it in I did a quick light test. The light still comes on.
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
This is a picture of the board inside the fuse panel
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Where the pen is pointing seemed like there was a major fault of some sort. I'm not sure if this helps
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Oops the file didn't attach. Let me try again
Customer: replied 10 months ago.
just for kicks and giggles while waiting for your responce, we took the negative lead off my dad's 99 camry and did a light test. It resulted with the light coming on. Is there a chance that my tool is giving me a false reading. It is is a small led so it wouldn't take but the smallest current to light up.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

LED test light? I wish you told me that earlier. You need an incandescent bulb testlight.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Whoops, I was pretty sure I mentioned that before. OK so the new fuse panel is in and everything is back together. I had to jump start it runs and the windows/locks/horn/defrost all work again. The last problems I have is that the abs light is still on and the speedometer and odometer aren't working. The odometer is on and I can see the numbers but it does not count.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Ok. Cool. The ABS light is on because, most likely, the vehicle speed sensor is not working on the transmission. The speed sensor controls the MPH and the odometer, and also sends the vehicle speed data to the ABS computer.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Also, the new fuse block came out of an automatic where my car is 5speed. Is there any chance that could be an issue? Is there anyway I can test to see if it's the sensor? Would using the short pin and paperclip method in the diagnostic box tell me anything?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

That could be an issue. You will need to get the vehicle scanned; this vehicle is OBD-2. That means the short pin trick does not work. If you get a P0500 code, the sensor or the wiring is most likely the problem. If the speedometer/odometer worked before the fuse panel was replaced, and does not work now, the fuse panel is the problem.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Where is the obd2 port on this car? I didn't see it when I was rooting around under the dash
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

under the dash on the driver side; on the right; close to the center console.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
I went down to look at the fuse box and both of them are stamped pp-t25-p5. That kind of leads me to believe that they didn't put different ones in the automatic vs manual. Also with a quick Google search it comes up as a camry fuse box. Is it safe to assume that the fuse box is the correct one? I am going to go scan it now, I'll be back with a code in a minute
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 10 months ago.

Te pp-t25-p5 is the casting number. It means nothing other than the mold it came out of. The Toyota part number is ***** : 12345-67890 If the part numbers on the integration relays differ, you have a problem there.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Ok so the p0500 code came up which my program says is speed sensor A. I'm curious where this speed sensor is. From briefly reading online I've found that there is one at each wheel. Could it be one of thoes or is there a central one on the transmission or something like that
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

Sorry about the delay. P0500 is a speed sensor code for the output of the transmission, this is unrelated to wheel speed sensors.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
No problem with the delay, I think it's safe to say that we both are busy and have conflicting schedules. While looking online I fount that some toyotas have a speed sensor on the back of the transfer case. I was trying to find mine but found that it was capped off with no wires or connectors around it. I didn't take any pictures but found something online that looked exactly like it.
Customer: replied 9 months ago.
I was fairly sure that was where it should be but I could be mistaken. Is there another location where the speed sensor could be?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

That picture shows where they used to take the speedometer signal from via a cable. You need to look at the side of the transmission for a unit that has a wire connector and a bolt holding it in place. Driver side.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
I had the car up on a lift so i got a good look at whats under there. I found one connector or the transmission (passenger side about halfway up) and two on the transfer case (one on either side and more towards the top) but the none of them look like the speed sensor I ordered from rock auto. The sensor I ordered kind of looks like a wheel speed sensor without the long cable. Looks like it's held in with one bolt, the electronic part that I assume goes into the transmission and a 2 prong port that looks like a connector plugs into. Does this sound like the the right sensor or did I get the wrong part?
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

You have the wrong part. The speed sensor on this vehicle is determined bay a Hall Effect sensor. You are looking for a black plastic thing with a magnet poking out of the part that goes inside the trans,mission.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
What does the sensor physically look like? The ones I saw on the transmission look like they screw in with something like a 27mm bolt around the sensor itself and nothing with an offset hole with say a 10mm bolt. I want to make sure I get the right one.
Customer: replied 9 months ago.
This is the sensor I have
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

The sensor is connected to a wire harness with 2 pins. The unit is a cylinder that inserts into the side of the transmisison

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

and that looks like it, but there are 3 different ones, depending on your transmission/transfer case (if equipped) combination

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

look on the white tag on the driver door opening. What are the letters after the ATM section? A340E or A340F?

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Neither. I'm reading it as at/m a03a/r150f
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

This is a manual Trans?

Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

4WD or 2WD?

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Manual trans 4wd 3.4l v6
Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Also orginally a California car, incase that matters
Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Just to reiterate, my program did say speed sensor "A". I don't know if that helps or not
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

Look on top of the transfer case

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Both sensors on the transfer case, one on each side, are pretty high, and can be considered the "top". Unless it's supposed to be pointed up. Is it the one on the drivers side like mentioned before? Also, what do I buy for a replacement? I cant find anything on rock auto that resemble those.
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

Since you have a manual trans, this is a very rare vehicle. The aftermarket may not see the demand for this particular unit. I would visit your Toyota dealer and get the exact right part.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
I'm still confused as to which one of these sensors it is, one of the two on the transfer case or the one on the transmission. How do I know which one to replace once I get the part? Do you have any part numbers or part diagrams that would get me a little closer to finding which one I need to replace
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

I do not hev the part numbers; apologies. The part numbers change very often. My drawing (which is from the servce manual) is about as vague as vague can be. The same drawing would be found on the parts department computer, but, there would be a part number associated with the picture. The part dept is your best bet here. I do not believe that a manual trans speed sensor is available in the aftermarket. If I were you, I would call your nearest dealer parts person and tell them you have a P0500 code and you need the speed sensor for your Vehicle Identification Number. They will give you the price, the part numb er and the availability.

Customer: replied 9 months ago.
Ok cool, I didn't know what you were working with. I guess I'll take a trip to the dealer here in the next day or two to try and get it figured out
Expert:  Toyota Service replied 9 months ago.

ok