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Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 20591
Experience:  BEng, Repaired my own cars and others for 20 years, worked in Formula 1 for 10 years
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My name is ***** *****. i have toyota rav4 99, automatic

Customer Question

Customer: Hi, My name is ***** *****. i have toyota rav4 99, automatic 2.0L. when it gets warm the idle gets rough an sometimes idle speed goes to 2000rpm and if i turn the vehicle off at that time, the car wont start untill 30 minutes have past. sometimes it works to step on the gas hard while cranking and then eventually it starts. could this be the coolant temp sensor?
JA: Thanks. Can you give me any more details about your issue?
Customer: basicly when the car reaches tempeature it starts to idle bad and low. around 600rpm and drops. has died before on a red light because of idling problems. if the vehivle is warm and i turn it off it wont start again unless i let it cool down.
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Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Matt replied 11 months ago.

Hello

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile

Expert:  Matt replied 11 months ago.

Hi

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